Tuesday 28th May Vezelay and caves of Bailly

We woke to pouring rain. Unbelievable after the weather of just a few hours ago. The forecast did not raise spirits making grim reading for the remainder of mums visit and beyond. The VNF mediator had arrived at 9am and spent 30minutes with Bertie. I very soon discovered that the problem lay with a barrage which due to water levels was impssible to repair and that whilst the new re-open date of tomorrow was still scheduled, it was looking increasingly likely that the river would still remain closed. Despite the grim news, we determined to make the most of the day and set off in the car, destination, Vezelay. A Unesco world heritage site, a fortified hill town some 18kms from the canal so with an intended later visit, at least we were saving ourselves a gruelling bike ride by visiting today in the comfort of Alecs car.
Through the misty drizzle the site of the old abbey perched on high signals our arrival

Even in the horrid weather, it is easy to see why the town is under Unesco protection and we enjoy a gentle stroll and wander through the old town main street stopping frquently to explore its varied shops from ancient potteries to modern sculptures and abstract art galleries. The architecture is a delight as ever.

It is such a shame to be denied the chance to sit under this old wisteria enjoying a chilled petite chablis in baking sun

We marvel at the sheer immensity of the St Basilique Sainte-Marie-Madeleine, with foundations layed in the 9th century this 12 century benedictine abbey bears stunning architectural testimony to the craftsmen and labourers who constructed it.

 Loved the giant sculpture over the main entrance

 We trod in the footsteps of Richard the Lionheart for it was here that the christians chose to meet before setting off on their crusades. Fabulous stuff.

We visited the crypt. A shrine housing relics of Mary Magdeline which had made this a place of pilgrimage all those years ago. It was awesome in its solemnity and serenity.

On a more recent historic note, the church walls are decorated with 14 simple wooden crosses. Following the horrors of ww2 pilgrims staged a crusade of peace which had the crosses carried the 300mile way of the cross to this place. The fourteenth cross had been handmade by a german priest who bore the cross dressed in a luftwaffer uniform insistent that Germany should be represented along with the other 13 allied countries. The mass was attended by over 6000 in july 1946.

I have absolute respect for people who have a faith whatever it may be however I am not a religous person but have always been intrigued and fascinated by the sheer power and wealth of Religion and its political influence on human history right up to todays world struggles in the name of it. The irony of the beauty of  a stain glass window portraying  murder in a place of worship is simply bazarre to me and yet all my church visits are filled with these types of image. Just as Richard had sought his churches blessing before setting off in the 12 century to murder those that had slightly different beliefs to him, 900 years later, in our so sophisticated and educated world, the  news bulletin  fills us all with sadness as innocents, babies, children young and old are still being slaughtered all over the world in the name of someones religion. I wonder, will these atrocities one day be celebrated in a stain glass mural decorating tomorrows religious houses. How is this still happening today and yes I have no doubt it will still be happening in another 900 years. We really need to sit and think about this and get something sorted world wide. Its just so bloody wierd and sad to me that we simply refuse to learn that religious faith is between you and your god whoever that may be, and on an individual basis and that all men have a right to choose and that choice can never be used as justification of such deep hatred as to harm another who chooses differently.

Ok, Sorry about that but the recent events in syria and woolwich have so saddened me, guess I needed to write something down. So quickly back to lighter stuff.

Time for a late lunch. We headed back to the main square where I had spied the Pot Au Feu, number one on trip advisor, we popped our heads in to this little restaurant to see if they were still serving lunch as it was 2pm.
We then enjoyed possibly the best menu lunch I have had in all our trips to France. At 15.50 per head between us we covered all the choices including starters of epoisse tart, or lardon salad with eppoise mini gougeres followed by chicken in a mustard and paprika sauce with baked ragout of vegetables and saffron mash or the deep rich beef bourgiugnon with mash and dessert choices of apple tart or chocolate mousse with rum. I tasted a morsel of most and have to say all were beautifully presented and fantistically cooked.
I actually chose just two courses on the seperate menu and had fois gras followed by pork fillet wrapped in crispy pancetta with a sage stuffing and honey and mustard sauce, also served with saffron mash and the vegetable ragout. Simply fantastic. We had a 75cl caraffe of red, rediculously good at 6.50euros. A brilliant lunch. I asked the patron about the house red. He supplied me with his vignerons card and told me it was just a Bourgoyne grand ordinaire. We left very satisfied customers.

Past 4 and still the rain fell, we hurtled to the caves of Bailly and got their just in time for the last tour. The guide spoke a little English which enriched the tour of these old stone quarry which had been converted to mushroom houses before the co-operative of Bailly took them over in 1972 and now alledgidly stock anything between 8 and 11 million bottles of Cremant de Burgoyne at any one time.
A feature of the tour is the carvings. They held competitions from 1994 and the winner would get to choose an area of the caves to carve a sculpture.

 

The one of Bacchus seemed to draw merriment amongst the crew with intimations of a passing resemblance to a very close loved one. The skipper was happy with some aspects of the comparisons whilst a tad aggrieved about others.

The competition was closed after 2011 with the sculpture deciding on a world peace theme following the tragic events of september 11.

 

We finished the tour of course with a couple of glasses of cremant. the five euro entry includes the tour the tastings and you get to keep your glass as a momento. Terrific value. We also made a few purchases of course and were the last to leave.