We had a lazy morning before strolling to the station to meet Fred and Zoe. Sat in the sunshine and had a beer and a pastis and typical of French railways, their train pulled in spot on time. We waited at our cafe table opposite the station and they spotted us immediately. It was all very emotional and we spent the next hour drinking beers and more pastis catching up.
Strolled back and got them settled before a spot of cheese and pâté and bread for lunch and an afternoon stroll round Joigny. More cafe drinks before pork roast haricot and potatoes, the now traditional welcome meal. We started on a new box of merlot. At 1am, we finished the box and retired very very drunk.
Great day!
Thursday, 20 September 2012
Posted with Blogsy
Wednesday 19th September Laroche St Cydroine to Joigny
Trip Departure 10. locks
after a boulangerie run we enjoyed Tea and toast and croissants before a gentle ten o'clock departure. As is statutory it seems, just as I started the engines another cruiser appeared round the bend and so it was I followed him toward the first of the 3 locks. I had tried to contact the eclusier on VHF with no joy. This was the first canal where it is very necessary to do this. In your own interests to be fair as the locks are not deep but massive in length and width to accommodate large pusher peniches, not that we had seen a single commercial. Thus they take a long time to fill and empty so Pre warning of your approach 10 to 15 minutes prior is sensible.
Inevitably, as we approached I spotted a hireboat far off on the other side of the lock. It was empty and so we were in for a wait. Engines off, I let Doucette drift very slowly, it was a stunning morning so no worries. The boat was soon nestled and I noted it lifting when I spotted a second vessel far off on the other side. I was dismayed to note the lock keeper leap into action. He aborted the fill, emptied again and waited for the second vessel. And so it was that 40minutes after leaving our mooring, we entered the lock just a 300 metres away.
The second lock was ready and waiting. We followed our company straight in and all was good. I spied a large private cruiser approaching the lock just As the lock gates started to open for us. We all watched aghast as he clearly was not stopping and came hurtling straight toward the lock. It was the most incredible lock incident we had witnessed on the whole trip. He had to see we were bow on surely and had just come through.
The eclusier watched mouth agape and seemed mesmerised until suddenly he started waving frantically and literally started jumping up and down apoplectic. The poor helmsmen on the incoming boat obviously realized his folly and in attempting to emergency stop, managed only to slam his stern into the bank before regaining control and slipping back giving us room to slip by. I offered a cheery wave on passing which was returned a tad sheepishly. I felt for the chap even though he was a plonker.
We pushed on into Joigny following the linsen at a pedestrian crawl, it was an impressive looking place.
Happy with the lovely weather and scenery, we were content to stay behind him despite a speed limit of 15kms per hour which would have made passing easy. It turned out to be a bad decision as of course the linsen took the last free mooring and so we found ourselves nestled on a finger pontoon in the Le boat marina. Close to this delightful hillside town, we had a great view and all facilities. We got chatting with the neighbours and missed the market.
We had a stroll into town. Brilliant medieval village, tiny narrow streets,
4 churches and a chateau and backed by vineyards
Loved it and we looked forward to welcoming Fred and Zoe tomorrow. Know they would love this door knocker.
We cycled to the industrial zone and found a huge intermarche for provisions. Stocked up on merlot, gin and rum. Lovely sunset as we settled into the evening.
after a boulangerie run we enjoyed Tea and toast and croissants before a gentle ten o'clock departure. As is statutory it seems, just as I started the engines another cruiser appeared round the bend and so it was I followed him toward the first of the 3 locks. I had tried to contact the eclusier on VHF with no joy. This was the first canal where it is very necessary to do this. In your own interests to be fair as the locks are not deep but massive in length and width to accommodate large pusher peniches, not that we had seen a single commercial. Thus they take a long time to fill and empty so Pre warning of your approach 10 to 15 minutes prior is sensible.
Inevitably, as we approached I spotted a hireboat far off on the other side of the lock. It was empty and so we were in for a wait. Engines off, I let Doucette drift very slowly, it was a stunning morning so no worries. The boat was soon nestled and I noted it lifting when I spotted a second vessel far off on the other side. I was dismayed to note the lock keeper leap into action. He aborted the fill, emptied again and waited for the second vessel. And so it was that 40minutes after leaving our mooring, we entered the lock just a 300 metres away.
The second lock was ready and waiting. We followed our company straight in and all was good. I spied a large private cruiser approaching the lock just As the lock gates started to open for us. We all watched aghast as he clearly was not stopping and came hurtling straight toward the lock. It was the most incredible lock incident we had witnessed on the whole trip. He had to see we were bow on surely and had just come through.
We pushed on into Joigny following the linsen at a pedestrian crawl, it was an impressive looking place.
Wednesday, 19 September 2012
Tuesday 18th September Laroche St Cydroine
I was woken by the sound of my baguettes being delivered by Gary. It was 7.45.
After prunes and yoghurt and some bread we waved them off at 9. The Americans left an hour later following the Aussies to auxerre where their boat was in for a paint job before going on the market. All a bit sad really but after 20 summers on the canals, they had no regrets.
With this lovely spot to ourselves and free electric and water we might aswell avail ourselves and spend what was a lovely sunny day right here. We went for a long walk along the riverbank.
Watched fish caught on the water barrier desperately trying to jump over the concrete wire but simply exhausting themselves with no success. A fishermen was trying his luck down below the wier where any fish coming down river would eventually be swept through. Seemed like a sound plan and it was a delightful setting. We had seen him earlier setting off down the riverbank. He had converted a sit on motorised lawn mower into what looked like a Harley Davidson trike without the wow factor and towed his fishing gear in an old rotting wooden box trailer. Fisherman take more gear than the crew takes on a two week cruise. Not sure why I am flabbergasted as these are fisherman after all, but I am! Actually, this particular chap is one of the nice ones and we get a cheery bonjour.
The rest of the day is spent chillin' we had chilli for lunch and I had a well deserved afternoon siesta. At 6.30 I suddenly realised I had no lardons which I needed for my first attempt at a tartiflette. Aboard the wheels of steel it was a race against time. I ended up back in migennes at atac. Stopped and told they were closing as I just got through the door, I pleaded for two minutes. He gave a smile and I grabbed 6 merguez and a pack of smoked lardons. Phew.
The tartiflette was fabulous washed down with a bottle of Cremant as I watched real Madrid v man city in the champions league and Collette read. Good game, good book! It had been a very pleasant lazy day here on the yonne.
After prunes and yoghurt and some bread we waved them off at 9. The Americans left an hour later following the Aussies to auxerre where their boat was in for a paint job before going on the market. All a bit sad really but after 20 summers on the canals, they had no regrets.
With this lovely spot to ourselves and free electric and water we might aswell avail ourselves and spend what was a lovely sunny day right here. We went for a long walk along the riverbank.
The rest of the day is spent chillin' we had chilli for lunch and I had a well deserved afternoon siesta. At 6.30 I suddenly realised I had no lardons which I needed for my first attempt at a tartiflette. Aboard the wheels of steel it was a race against time. I ended up back in migennes at atac. Stopped and told they were closing as I just got through the door, I pleaded for two minutes. He gave a smile and I grabbed 6 merguez and a pack of smoked lardons. Phew.
Monday, 17 September 2012
Monday 17th September Briancon to Laroche St Cydroine
I was up at 7 trying to sort the electric. Fortunately a liveaboard had a key to the capitinnaire and was able to get a key for the electric junction box. A breaker switched on and we were sorted.
After a long hot, and as the crew intimated, long overdue shower, we sat down to prunes and vanilla yoghurt, followed by fried eggs ham and pain and some pain and orange marmalade. Oh yes mr mannering!
A walk around the town took us to the old Eglise which is mid refurbishment. Dust everywhere so a short visit.
Onto the Louis 15th grand lavoir ( washroom). Brilliant construction, fantastic round curvy roof
and stone stepped entrance down to a crystal clear pool.
Pigeons had squatting rights which they had utilised to maximum effect. Bit stinky really but what a remarkable building.
Found ourselves lost and in the grounds of a chateau converted into some form of school of dance and music. Gardens were nice
We quick stepped our way out and back to Doucette Which looked like a laundry barge with yesterday's washing still out drying in the hot sun. We had time to vacuum the boat and top up water before slipping away at 1.30.
A pretty mundane straight 7 Kms to finish our voyage of the canal de Burgoyne. Closing on Migennes, another complete tosser with a fishing rod who tried to ignore the fact that i was on the waterway. New tactic now as i recognize the signs very early. I watched as a large hire boat got in trouble trying to manoeuvre round some lines, I just pushed the throttles forward and with a roar the tosspot quickly pulls in his line and goes into a frenzy of embittered resentment over our presence on his canal.
I have no problems with the remaining couple of worm downers as I slip to one side of the canal and get cheerful waves and nods of appreciation for slowing and drifting to the side. Being pleasant is so easy and so much nicer. At least it was stinking hot as we entered the final basin at laroche migennes. A freight train carrying hundreds of peugeots to god knows where confirmed that this was not an ideal stop over despite the Le boat depot based here.
I had a late spot of an attac supermarket so cancelled the last lock and dropped alongside. Two quick sorties and 100 litres topped up both engines to almost full. Not bad as last top up was at st.jean de losne some four weeks ago.
Through the last lock of the borgouyne and we were back on a river. The yonne looked huge after the narrowness of the canal and it was lovely to open up the throttles and give Doucette a bit of a go. 15kms per hour on the river. We slipped the few hundred meters down to a ramshackle old boatyard, packed with boats rafter 5 out. I spied a likely looking geezer with long white beard. He motioned for us to raft alongside a newish looking steeler. " I am looking for Simon Evans"
"Look no further!"
This was to be Doucettes home for the winter. I checked out the yard, looked perfect and somewhere I could be comfortable. Arrangements made to lift out with a couple of days notice and to leave the boat here for a week when we return to blighty for the 60th bash next week, he invited us to stay the night but I think realised we were looking for somewhere a little more attractive. Guided us on our way towards a halte at laroche st Cydroine.
The river was just beautiful. The sun was setting. It was all just majestic. Got to the halte to find an impossible gap left between an Aussie yacht and an American steeler. They leapt off their boats and helped us in. We had about a cm each end but made it ok. Chatted for half an hour with the neighbours. Very nice people. The Aussies had come from Brighton in may and this was there 7th year. The Americans were in there 20th year and announced it was to be there last. The problem was the travel from the states and back, they reported.
Sat on the poop had a few beers and caught up on blog whilst the crew soaked her feet and attended herself as women do. Creams lotions cleansers liberally applied, feet, hands painted, what a bloody to do.
We had a visitor at about 7. The American lady had come to offer Collette some 30 books. Within half an hour we had an impromptu quay get together with all six of us in full flow. I finally announced that we needed to eat at just after 9. It was pitch black, pretty nippy and Reece, the 16stone American ex engineer who worked on the heart monitors that were used on the Apollo 11 moon landing mission was mid flow on educating us on the stars. It had been very pleasant and they were all very nice people but my stomache was desperate. Gary, the Aussie offered to get me my baguettes in the morning as they were making an early start for Auxerre and his winter berth.
Collette knocked up our bubble and squeak which we had with the cold pork and pickle. Felt like boxing day!
Another late dinner just before bed. We really must get our timing issues sorted.
After a long hot, and as the crew intimated, long overdue shower, we sat down to prunes and vanilla yoghurt, followed by fried eggs ham and pain and some pain and orange marmalade. Oh yes mr mannering!
A walk around the town took us to the old Eglise which is mid refurbishment. Dust everywhere so a short visit.
Found ourselves lost and in the grounds of a chateau converted into some form of school of dance and music. Gardens were nice
I had a late spot of an attac supermarket so cancelled the last lock and dropped alongside. Two quick sorties and 100 litres topped up both engines to almost full. Not bad as last top up was at st.jean de losne some four weeks ago.
Through the last lock of the borgouyne and we were back on a river. The yonne looked huge after the narrowness of the canal and it was lovely to open up the throttles and give Doucette a bit of a go. 15kms per hour on the river. We slipped the few hundred meters down to a ramshackle old boatyard, packed with boats rafter 5 out. I spied a likely looking geezer with long white beard. He motioned for us to raft alongside a newish looking steeler. " I am looking for Simon Evans"
"Look no further!"
This was to be Doucettes home for the winter. I checked out the yard, looked perfect and somewhere I could be comfortable. Arrangements made to lift out with a couple of days notice and to leave the boat here for a week when we return to blighty for the 60th bash next week, he invited us to stay the night but I think realised we were looking for somewhere a little more attractive. Guided us on our way towards a halte at laroche st Cydroine.
The river was just beautiful. The sun was setting. It was all just majestic. Got to the halte to find an impossible gap left between an Aussie yacht and an American steeler. They leapt off their boats and helped us in. We had about a cm each end but made it ok. Chatted for half an hour with the neighbours. Very nice people. The Aussies had come from Brighton in may and this was there 7th year. The Americans were in there 20th year and announced it was to be there last. The problem was the travel from the states and back, they reported.
Sat on the poop had a few beers and caught up on blog whilst the crew soaked her feet and attended herself as women do. Creams lotions cleansers liberally applied, feet, hands painted, what a bloody to do.
We had a visitor at about 7. The American lady had come to offer Collette some 30 books. Within half an hour we had an impromptu quay get together with all six of us in full flow. I finally announced that we needed to eat at just after 9. It was pitch black, pretty nippy and Reece, the 16stone American ex engineer who worked on the heart monitors that were used on the Apollo 11 moon landing mission was mid flow on educating us on the stars. It had been very pleasant and they were all very nice people but my stomache was desperate. Gary, the Aussie offered to get me my baguettes in the morning as they were making an early start for Auxerre and his winter berth.
Collette knocked up our bubble and squeak which we had with the cold pork and pickle. Felt like boxing day!
Another late dinner just before bed. We really must get our timing issues sorted.
Sunday 16th September Saint Florentin to Briancon
Trip. Departure 1pm Locks
We had one of those fantastic Sunday mornings laying in bed taking it in turns to go and make tea. eventually we got up at 11.45 and at 12.15 I was hurtling to try and catch the boulangerie. They were clearing the shelves but I got a still warm pain and baguette.
Chicken mayo and gherkin baguettes for brunch and after a stroll taking shots of the marina, we were ready to slip lines at 1pm.
Saint Florintin looks lovely from the lock.
The short trip was yet again gorgeous. We passed through a beautifully tended lock where all hell was breaking loose. Four chaps were running around organising the readying whilst an old couple sipped wine under a sun umbrella. It looked like the French family werer having an afternoon together and we had interrupted the party. I noticed one chap busy taking snaps as we got onto the glide path for final approach. We settle in and I congratulate the old lady on her beautiful flowers. She laughs and points towards the dodgy chap with the camera. All his work. I congratulate him and he practically breaks down in an it's all too much larry Grayson moment. He rushes round toward me launching his camera at mum as he crashes past her. He wants a picture. I am perturbed but hold out a strong manly hand. He grasps it in the wrong hand! This is not a handshake grasp. I smile nervously at the camera wondering what website I will end up on.
I reciprocate and ask him to pose in front of his prize roses. He is chuffed to nuts!
We escape the lock with much ado and I notice the slight change in the tree colours. Autumn is definitely fast approaching, I take a picture of this long straight section looking forward and aft.
We chance upon a fisherman with one of those 15m rods fishing 1m from the far bank. Usual nonsense as he tries to ignore the fact we are on the canal. I am just sick of them now and have run out of patience so I nudge the throttles forward a tad and Doucette burps a throaty "let's have some". It has the desired effect as the fisherman immediately hauls in the rod. I pass and look toward him. As expected he immediately looks away. They really do need help!
Briancon is a halte with improvement works in full flow. We tie up and the smiling rotund capitinnaire, clearly friar tuck in a previous life, comes to rob the rich. 10 euros fully inclusive of electricity and water, a bargain.
I go into pay and am confronted by four ageing hells angels from the dodgy prostate chapter. They all wanted to avail of the wc but were super friendly and I got away without being gang raped. They were all rather impressed with the fact I had crossed the channel in " what in that!"
I departed thinking " yea well hard I am"
The crew unleashed another washing machine frenzy whilst I settled for a cold one on the poop before retiring to the sun deck for a snooze on the sunbeds. I fear we are running out of days like these with the temp now up at 75 and a gorgeous sunny evening in store and manage to persuade the crew to join me. A lovely hour.
I cobbed the pork and readied some buttery mash. Fried some lardons and garlic and added some par boiled haricot and leeks. Boiled some finely shredded cabbage and with a touch of white wine and butter fried them all off together for a couple of minutes. The crew was delighted. Eppoisse and Roquefort with biscuits and the skipper was a happy chappy.
I was then subjected to a further 30minutes of teeth grinding torture as the crew remembered x factor was on again. I really do need to get her medical help!
A dose of piers and roger Moore and I went to bed almost ready to slip quietly overboard and look for Bob Maxwell but salvation was at hand as the electricity suddenly went. Result!
With much glee we retired to the aft cabin. It was 20 past midnight.
We had one of those fantastic Sunday mornings laying in bed taking it in turns to go and make tea. eventually we got up at 11.45 and at 12.15 I was hurtling to try and catch the boulangerie. They were clearing the shelves but I got a still warm pain and baguette.
Chicken mayo and gherkin baguettes for brunch and after a stroll taking shots of the marina, we were ready to slip lines at 1pm.
I reciprocate and ask him to pose in front of his prize roses. He is chuffed to nuts!
I go into pay and am confronted by four ageing hells angels from the dodgy prostate chapter. They all wanted to avail of the wc but were super friendly and I got away without being gang raped. They were all rather impressed with the fact I had crossed the channel in " what in that!"
I departed thinking " yea well hard I am"
The crew unleashed another washing machine frenzy whilst I settled for a cold one on the poop before retiring to the sun deck for a snooze on the sunbeds. I fear we are running out of days like these with the temp now up at 75 and a gorgeous sunny evening in store and manage to persuade the crew to join me. A lovely hour.
I cobbed the pork and readied some buttery mash. Fried some lardons and garlic and added some par boiled haricot and leeks. Boiled some finely shredded cabbage and with a touch of white wine and butter fried them all off together for a couple of minutes. The crew was delighted. Eppoisse and Roquefort with biscuits and the skipper was a happy chappy.
I was then subjected to a further 30minutes of teeth grinding torture as the crew remembered x factor was on again. I really do need to get her medical help!
A dose of piers and roger Moore and I went to bed almost ready to slip quietly overboard and look for Bob Maxwell but salvation was at hand as the electricity suddenly went. Result!
With much glee we retired to the aft cabin. It was 20 past midnight.
Sunday, 16 September 2012
Saturday 15th September Saint Florentin
I tried to call tone. Incredibly 60 today. Too late he had already set off for the golf course so would catch up with him later. Omelettes for breakfast before an early start into town. Saint Florentin is remarkable for its church and it's plethora of antique shops. We planned on heading out to try and see a cheese factory where soumaintrain is made. The village lies just 9km away. So the steeds were employed and we again climbed the 1in 3 up to the town centre.
The town was a buzz. It was market day. We stashed the bikes in the lovely little square with a most delightful dragon decorated fountain. A quick stroll round the corner to the quaint indoor market where we purchased potatoes, leeks cabbage and the most fabulous looking haricot. Very reasonable cost too!
Queued at the boulangerie from outside the shop. This boded well. We had not much need so only purchased a single loaf. Collette wanted to do some window browsing so I escaped back to Doucette to stash the swag. Made a couple of ham and cheese sandwiches to take with us and met Collette back at the fountain square cafe. We sat outside and enjoyed coffee in the hot sun. Lovely.
The internet revealed that soumaintrain was a tiny village which had no cheese factory but simply lent its name to the fabulous cheese produced in this area. Off to the tourist office for inspiration and information. I had an inkling to visit a Chablis vineyard as although never having been white wine drinkers, we both had started to enjoy the aligote burgundy and I felt very ignorant of what is after arguably the second biggest brand in wine after champagne and having passed so close to the town of Chablis where the grand cru grapes are grown on the south facing slopes over looking the town, we really should have a look!
Trouble was, the nearest vineyard open on a saturday was some 18kms away at a place called Maligny. Chablis was a further 5 Kms. We settled on Maligny. The young lady in the tourist office had been so helpful, we left a couple of euros in the tip box and left loaded with brochures and maps on Chablis, auxerre and Joigny for future reference.
The ride was another fabulous run. We stopped at a tiny bar en route and sat in the garden with a much needed beer. The proprietor seeing me reading up on Chablis gave me a full history of the wines and the local abbaye which we must visit he insisted. Not today I explained. He told us all about saint Florentin. Yes we have seen the fountain and the church, I explained. Anyway, another very friendly and helpful Frenchmen.
We cycled through Ligny Le Chatel, the Top end of the Chablis region where the imposing chateau was home to the first vineyard, closed on Saturdays. We were stopped by 4 elderly Americans who having heard us talking as we cycled by hailed us excited to hear English. They had just arrived for two week stay at a gite in this rather remote rural town. Amazingly they came from Seattle Washington state, just as bill and jan our guests of last week had done. It really is a small world.
We got to Maligny and sat under a conker tree next to an old wooden wine press and ate our sandwiches. It had been a long 18kms but the crew was holding up well. The sandwiches had been a master stroke.
Arriving at the winery of Olivier and Francine Savary, it was Ferme!!
The gate was open and when I rode across the threshold I heard a buzz. We were desperate, 18kms and closed. I started to regret the tourist office tip having been assured by the girl this was open. With that a lady appeared and opened the door of the cave and beckoned us in. It was Francine. I told her of our quest. She invited us in for a tasting. I offered to pay for the degustation as we would not be buying as we were on bikes. She would have none of it. She whisked us down into the cellar lined with oak barrels.
As we tasted the wines, I got a quick amateurs lesson in Chablis but she just wanted us to taste the wine.
Collette loved a particular bottle and thankfully it was not the grand cru. It was the one wine stored in the oak barrels. I explained to Francine how we always preferred red wines. With that she produced a pinot for us to taste. The was no rushing us and she was very generous with the measures and we tried all four varieties and the red. It was a lovely hour. Our favoured wine was just 9 € per bottle. Collette was very keen so we at least purchased a couple of bottles to help weigh down my saddlebags for the return trip. The shame was that Francine suggested we come to see them at the Chablis fete du vendages which celebrates the end of harvest. Trouble is it is in November so impossible for us. Apparently it is absolutely fantastic.
We cycled a different route back which was equally wonderful but were both pretty knackered as we climbed aboard. There was a note from the so far elusive capitinnaire. Could you phone this tel number to organise payment. 8 € per night. I phoned, it was France afloat offices and I had to leave a message. Zoe called me back. Thank you for your honesty she said, when are you leaving. "Tomorrow"
"we have nobody on site til Monday. If you are passing vermenton some time, perhaps you could drop in and pay the 24€."
I offered to leave it in an envelope and post it in the office but she said that she preferred I did not do that.
All a bit bizarre but I told her I would get it to her some time next year if not this. France is so wierd!
Tony called and we were able to wish the old dog happy 60th. He was on top form, having a great birthday and very excited about our January trip to south Africa to celebrate. Nice one!
We dined on a starters of baby squid and seafood salad for skipper and gambas with mandarins salad for the crew. A cobbed free range chicken( bit chewy again, back to the lidles 3 € me thinks) with the gorgeously chunky haricot. Eppoisse and Roquefort cheese and biscuits for skipper and half a bar of Nestlé for the crew. The electric mysteriously went at about 9 ish but I was still not spared xfactor as I was instructed to switch on the inverter. We watched and enjoyed the opening film episode of pillars of truth and bedded after midnight.
Trouble was, the nearest vineyard open on a saturday was some 18kms away at a place called Maligny. Chablis was a further 5 Kms. We settled on Maligny. The young lady in the tourist office had been so helpful, we left a couple of euros in the tip box and left loaded with brochures and maps on Chablis, auxerre and Joigny for future reference.
The ride was another fabulous run. We stopped at a tiny bar en route and sat in the garden with a much needed beer. The proprietor seeing me reading up on Chablis gave me a full history of the wines and the local abbaye which we must visit he insisted. Not today I explained. He told us all about saint Florentin. Yes we have seen the fountain and the church, I explained. Anyway, another very friendly and helpful Frenchmen.
We cycled through Ligny Le Chatel, the Top end of the Chablis region where the imposing chateau was home to the first vineyard, closed on Saturdays. We were stopped by 4 elderly Americans who having heard us talking as we cycled by hailed us excited to hear English. They had just arrived for two week stay at a gite in this rather remote rural town. Amazingly they came from Seattle Washington state, just as bill and jan our guests of last week had done. It really is a small world.
We got to Maligny and sat under a conker tree next to an old wooden wine press and ate our sandwiches. It had been a long 18kms but the crew was holding up well. The sandwiches had been a master stroke.
The gate was open and when I rode across the threshold I heard a buzz. We were desperate, 18kms and closed. I started to regret the tourist office tip having been assured by the girl this was open. With that a lady appeared and opened the door of the cave and beckoned us in. It was Francine. I told her of our quest. She invited us in for a tasting. I offered to pay for the degustation as we would not be buying as we were on bikes. She would have none of it. She whisked us down into the cellar lined with oak barrels.
Collette loved a particular bottle and thankfully it was not the grand cru. It was the one wine stored in the oak barrels. I explained to Francine how we always preferred red wines. With that she produced a pinot for us to taste. The was no rushing us and she was very generous with the measures and we tried all four varieties and the red. It was a lovely hour. Our favoured wine was just 9 € per bottle. Collette was very keen so we at least purchased a couple of bottles to help weigh down my saddlebags for the return trip. The shame was that Francine suggested we come to see them at the Chablis fete du vendages which celebrates the end of harvest. Trouble is it is in November so impossible for us. Apparently it is absolutely fantastic.
We cycled a different route back which was equally wonderful but were both pretty knackered as we climbed aboard. There was a note from the so far elusive capitinnaire. Could you phone this tel number to organise payment. 8 € per night. I phoned, it was France afloat offices and I had to leave a message. Zoe called me back. Thank you for your honesty she said, when are you leaving. "Tomorrow"
"we have nobody on site til Monday. If you are passing vermenton some time, perhaps you could drop in and pay the 24€."
I offered to leave it in an envelope and post it in the office but she said that she preferred I did not do that.
All a bit bizarre but I told her I would get it to her some time next year if not this. France is so wierd!
Tony called and we were able to wish the old dog happy 60th. He was on top form, having a great birthday and very excited about our January trip to south Africa to celebrate. Nice one!
We dined on a starters of baby squid and seafood salad for skipper and gambas with mandarins salad for the crew. A cobbed free range chicken( bit chewy again, back to the lidles 3 € me thinks) with the gorgeously chunky haricot. Eppoisse and Roquefort cheese and biscuits for skipper and half a bar of Nestlé for the crew. The electric mysteriously went at about 9 ish but I was still not spared xfactor as I was instructed to switch on the inverter. We watched and enjoyed the opening film episode of pillars of truth and bedded after midnight.
Friday 14th September Saint Florentin
I produced fried potatoes tomatoes and sausages for a healthy start to the day. We decided on a relatively quiet one as the weather was overcast and we had chores. It was nice to discover a note from barrett who had left very early this morning. He thanked me for help with his tv which had solved the problem and wished us well and hoped we would meet again next year and share a drink. Nice touch!
The crew made a start on hulling more walnuts. It was a tiresome task and she deserves great credit for her persistence and determination to complete the task today. I caught up on my blog and drank coffee.
Time for a restock of much needed vittals, we took to the steeds and headed off up Yates another steep hill the 2 Kms the other side of town to intermarche.
Great news was that the Roche mazet merlot boxes were finally back on the shelves. 3 were soon in my basket. Got some more rose and heinekins and a couple of bottles of Cremant. Decided on a jamie style fish curry. Fish is so much more expensive than home over here. Coley is 15€ per kilo. At home it was 7. Shopping trips always take much longer than expected and so by the time we got back, unloaded and lazed through the rest of the day even watching an old james mason black and white whilst the crew triumphantly hulled and scrubbed the last of the nuts.
I watched a bit of my most disliked chefs programme about cookery course F*****g Ramsay! He tried to show how to cook perfect basmati. Complete F*****g B******s you could see the starchy stodgyness when he lifted it on the fork. My delia method is the only fool proof way and you definitely do not wash the rice first. Anyway i rant, but Ramsay is such a ..............
I used a green Thai paste for the curry and it was a big success although I had bought too much fish and it was a struggle to see it all off. The rice was absolutely perfect of course, the one thing I can definately cook better than Ramsay.
Well fed, we slept well after a gentle Friday.
The crew made a start on hulling more walnuts. It was a tiresome task and she deserves great credit for her persistence and determination to complete the task today. I caught up on my blog and drank coffee.
Time for a restock of much needed vittals, we took to the steeds and headed off up Yates another steep hill the 2 Kms the other side of town to intermarche.
Great news was that the Roche mazet merlot boxes were finally back on the shelves. 3 were soon in my basket. Got some more rose and heinekins and a couple of bottles of Cremant. Decided on a jamie style fish curry. Fish is so much more expensive than home over here. Coley is 15€ per kilo. At home it was 7. Shopping trips always take much longer than expected and so by the time we got back, unloaded and lazed through the rest of the day even watching an old james mason black and white whilst the crew triumphantly hulled and scrubbed the last of the nuts.
I watched a bit of my most disliked chefs programme about cookery course F*****g Ramsay! He tried to show how to cook perfect basmati. Complete F*****g B******s you could see the starchy stodgyness when he lifted it on the fork. My delia method is the only fool proof way and you definitely do not wash the rice first. Anyway i rant, but Ramsay is such a ..............
I used a green Thai paste for the curry and it was a big success although I had bought too much fish and it was a struggle to see it all off. The rice was absolutely perfect of course, the one thing I can definately cook better than Ramsay.
Well fed, we slept well after a gentle Friday.
Friday, 14 September 2012
Thursday 13th September Flogny la Chapelle to Saint Florentin.
Trip 12kms Departure 10. Locks 7 of 538
We got up as the last of the heavy rain finally drifted away. It was a sodden deck I stepped out onto to unload the steel steed. The ride to the butchers and boulangerie was all uphill but rewarded by the purchase of two fresh crispy baguettes, 3 enormous faggots in red wine sauce and a crab and prawn pamplemousse starter for one. The crew does not do pamplemousse.
The crew had made a start on the walnuts, tough going. 7 de hulled about 70 to go. They looked great drying on the deck though. We had sausage baguettes and raised our cups of tea to the smedley wedding party who should be boarding the plane for mexico as we ate, before we departed at ten.
The first two locks were operated by the same eclusier as they were within 200 yds of our departure spot. Both needed filling so it was that 40 minutes after leaving, we could still see our mooring.
Another pretty reach
and we were quickly passing through locks now readied for our arrival. We stopped for the midday to one lunch hour at a scenic spot where the canal was bordered on both sides by rivers and happily there was a very well maintained quay with mooring rings.
We had just one lock left and we arrived waiting for it at 1 exactly. A deep lock it was to take several minutes to prepare, during which time the crew was fascinated by a large fish which was in a jumping frenzy in the approach to the lock.
We arrived at saint Florentin and moored close to a british flagged rather nice stevens. Owned by Barrett and Joyce, Barrett is the author of a cruising association publication on the winter lay up facilities on the whole waterway system. Although he has only just started cruising these waters he has collated information from the cruising association membership and is now adding to that with his own travel experiences. He was having problems getting a tv signal and was a tad exasperated. Nice one!
We readied the boat for the arrival of Nick and Pam who had now wintered there boat at bray on the nivernais and were visiting friends close to here so had arranged to pop over for a catch up and drinks.
They arrived at five sharp just as i was hopefully getting barretts t,.v problem sorted, i left him to finish off and we spent a lovely couple of hours damaging my gin stocks to the point of exhaustion. Pam had to drive so just had the three large ones. It was great to see them and the time just went too quickly. They had found us a house to. Uh on the nivernais for a remarkable price of 28000€ nick had left the sales details behind unfortunately but said that he would have bought it had he not been 80 next year and that we should consider it as a project. Having plenty of experience of French property dealings, I am sure he was right but a bit too far north for me! Still it would have been nice to have seen the details and proves that there are still opportunities to be had over here.
Despite the cheese and biscuits and picky bits we had enjoyed with them, we had the faggots and stuffed aubergine for dinner. The faggots were not really faggots but large balls of solid meat. Bloody lovely and the sauce was gorgeous.
We watched the rest of the appalling movie "the inbetweenies" having started it last night and then watched Trevor McDonald's Mississippi programme. Not my favourite travel presenter but this was very enjoyable.
We got up as the last of the heavy rain finally drifted away. It was a sodden deck I stepped out onto to unload the steel steed. The ride to the butchers and boulangerie was all uphill but rewarded by the purchase of two fresh crispy baguettes, 3 enormous faggots in red wine sauce and a crab and prawn pamplemousse starter for one. The crew does not do pamplemousse.
The crew had made a start on the walnuts, tough going. 7 de hulled about 70 to go. They looked great drying on the deck though. We had sausage baguettes and raised our cups of tea to the smedley wedding party who should be boarding the plane for mexico as we ate, before we departed at ten.
Another pretty reach
We arrived at saint Florentin and moored close to a british flagged rather nice stevens. Owned by Barrett and Joyce, Barrett is the author of a cruising association publication on the winter lay up facilities on the whole waterway system. Although he has only just started cruising these waters he has collated information from the cruising association membership and is now adding to that with his own travel experiences. He was having problems getting a tv signal and was a tad exasperated. Nice one!
We readied the boat for the arrival of Nick and Pam who had now wintered there boat at bray on the nivernais and were visiting friends close to here so had arranged to pop over for a catch up and drinks.
They arrived at five sharp just as i was hopefully getting barretts t,.v problem sorted, i left him to finish off and we spent a lovely couple of hours damaging my gin stocks to the point of exhaustion. Pam had to drive so just had the three large ones. It was great to see them and the time just went too quickly. They had found us a house to. Uh on the nivernais for a remarkable price of 28000€ nick had left the sales details behind unfortunately but said that he would have bought it had he not been 80 next year and that we should consider it as a project. Having plenty of experience of French property dealings, I am sure he was right but a bit too far north for me! Still it would have been nice to have seen the details and proves that there are still opportunities to be had over here.
Despite the cheese and biscuits and picky bits we had enjoyed with them, we had the faggots and stuffed aubergine for dinner. The faggots were not really faggots but large balls of solid meat. Bloody lovely and the sauce was gorgeous.
We watched the rest of the appalling movie "the inbetweenies" having started it last night and then watched Trevor McDonald's Mississippi programme. Not my favourite travel presenter but this was very enjoyable.
Wednesday September 12th Tronchoy to Flogny la Chapelle
Trip 7 Kms Departure 11 Locks 1 of 531
We had a lazy morning. I took the bike to try and find a boulangerie. As I was leaving the village, I heard a klaxon, turned round and there was a white wagon pulling up and raising the side canopy. Result!
Got back there and found it to be a grocery van which carried absolutely everything except for bread. Nearest bread is at Flogny but wait it is closed on Wednesday's. I was not even surprised anymore.
We breakfasted on yoghurt and pecan nut master rumble. Super.
With such a short run and just one lock, we prepared to set off at 11. Almost inevitably, a hire boat appeared as we readied for the off. It passed and we pulled into line. I had one engine on tick over and still we slowly gained on the hire boat. At the lock it offered to let us pass but I declined as we were stopping in just 3 Kms and with the weather now dry and brighter it was rather a pleasant run.
As we drifted slowly along, I suddenly had a eureka moment. Walnut tree, and another, and another! At last!
We got to the pleasant quay at Flogny with warnings of just 0.9m depths. We took great care as we inched alongside but no dramas. A British flagged barge, blue belle arrived and I moved to make space. We strolled up yet another steep hill into town and sure enough at the small commercial area on the outskirts, we discovered a closed on Wednesday's boulangerie and an open and quite fantastic butchers. Spent ten minutes just admiring the displays before leaving with a promise to return to purchase in the morning.
Back at Doucette, we loaded the bikes with a boat hook and my satellite extension pole. We were going hunting. The walnuts were high and did not wish to be harvested but we were determined. It took an hour or so to half fill our bag but we had enough.
As I scrambled after a faller, my mind raced with thoughts of vipers in the undergrowth but i was particularly brave this day!
Whilst I stretched, the crew bent, walnutting was a noisy affair!
But we were delighted with our swag. We managed to hull one nut immediately. Sadly this was not a sign of things to come in this department.
We had investigated the harvesting, preparation and storage of the nuts on the iPad and so back at base after finding the hulls sticking fast to the nuts, they ended up in a bag wetted and covered with canvas to try and ease the sticky green outer hulls from the nut itself. A sign that we were a tad early in harvesting.
I got started on the tenderloin of pork. I seared the well seasoned tenderloin and popped it into a roasting to in the oven. Added half a cup of Burgundy aligote to the pan and reduced it. Added a chunk of Dijon, three chunks of honey and a knob of beurre. Poured this over the pork and popped it back in the oven after adding some par boiled new potatoes to the meat. I scooped out a large aubergine and popped the two halve in the oven. Fried off some chopped chorizo and added the scooped flesh to it. Once cooked I stuffed the aubergine and popped back in the oven.
Dinner was fabulous washed down with more aligote but we only managed half of the aubergine so this was set aside for tomorrow.
It had been a delightful meal but outside as we drifted towards slumber, the rain started to fall.
We had a lazy morning. I took the bike to try and find a boulangerie. As I was leaving the village, I heard a klaxon, turned round and there was a white wagon pulling up and raising the side canopy. Result!
Got back there and found it to be a grocery van which carried absolutely everything except for bread. Nearest bread is at Flogny but wait it is closed on Wednesday's. I was not even surprised anymore.
We breakfasted on yoghurt and pecan nut master rumble. Super.
As we drifted slowly along, I suddenly had a eureka moment. Walnut tree, and another, and another! At last!
We got to the pleasant quay at Flogny with warnings of just 0.9m depths. We took great care as we inched alongside but no dramas. A British flagged barge, blue belle arrived and I moved to make space. We strolled up yet another steep hill into town and sure enough at the small commercial area on the outskirts, we discovered a closed on Wednesday's boulangerie and an open and quite fantastic butchers. Spent ten minutes just admiring the displays before leaving with a promise to return to purchase in the morning.
Back at Doucette, we loaded the bikes with a boat hook and my satellite extension pole. We were going hunting. The walnuts were high and did not wish to be harvested but we were determined. It took an hour or so to half fill our bag but we had enough.
I got started on the tenderloin of pork. I seared the well seasoned tenderloin and popped it into a roasting to in the oven. Added half a cup of Burgundy aligote to the pan and reduced it. Added a chunk of Dijon, three chunks of honey and a knob of beurre. Poured this over the pork and popped it back in the oven after adding some par boiled new potatoes to the meat. I scooped out a large aubergine and popped the two halve in the oven. Fried off some chopped chorizo and added the scooped flesh to it. Once cooked I stuffed the aubergine and popped back in the oven.
Dinner was fabulous washed down with more aligote but we only managed half of the aubergine so this was set aside for tomorrow.
It had been a delightful meal but outside as we drifted towards slumber, the rain started to fall.
Tuesday September 11th Tanlay to Tronchoy
Trip 15kms Departure 10am Locks 9 of 530
After a quick bread run for skipper, we did some cleaning chores and I went to top up the water. Incredibly, I found yet another new water fitting. The boat is getting weighed down with them. Luckily joe next door had one so water was topped and a mental note to get yet another connector was stored.
We slipped at ten and I was disappointed to see the lock gates closed, lock empty and my friendly new boy sat on a bench reading today's novel. I gave the engines a burst and he looked up and leapt to his toils. We were through in ten minutes and he smiled an ironic, " you told me 10 and ten it was". Yea well shame you hadn't prepared for me, I thought as I smiled my Bon chance and la prochaine l'annee.
We soon arrived at the town of Tonnerre and pulled into the halte. A bit unimpressed with a silo opposite and boxes of 50's erected flats made the opposite bank look like a Butlins camp. We needed vittals and so under a heavy sky we mounted and headed for the signposted Leclerc. Closed down, we found ourselves circling the boat and headed off into Tonnerre. The supermarkets are always out of town and of course these were on the opposite side of town to the halte. We rode up steep inclines and stumbled on a lidles. At least this was a result. We got to the checkout as the rain started.
Sodden, we arrived back at Doucette and decided on moving on to a small village called Tronchoy where there was alledgedly a "Bon amarrage"
The weather improved as we made our way. The number of hire boats had today increased dramatically and progress was slow. The village moorings did not exist but the banks with the gardens backing on and with the village in the background did indeed make for a very lovely mooring spot.
We carefully nestled into the bank and staked ourselves secure. We had not had time for lunch so enjoyed our freshly made egg mayo in baguettes with lettuce.
We strolled the bank where I picked a peach from one of the several laden trees. The various gardens tumbling down to the bank gave an insight into rural France. Immaculate vegetable plots, chickens freely roaming and feeding before settling down for the nights laying, old barns with tractors from another age covered in hay and looking awkward sat askew on a flat tire, a litter of days old kittens bouncing back into the sanctity of another rambling old apparently derelict basement.
We carried on through the village and then back to Doucette. We had a full fridge but I had a craving for sardines on toast so settled for a light supper whilst watching England struggle to a 1 all draw with Ukraine in a world cup qualifier.
After a quick bread run for skipper, we did some cleaning chores and I went to top up the water. Incredibly, I found yet another new water fitting. The boat is getting weighed down with them. Luckily joe next door had one so water was topped and a mental note to get yet another connector was stored.
We slipped at ten and I was disappointed to see the lock gates closed, lock empty and my friendly new boy sat on a bench reading today's novel. I gave the engines a burst and he looked up and leapt to his toils. We were through in ten minutes and he smiled an ironic, " you told me 10 and ten it was". Yea well shame you hadn't prepared for me, I thought as I smiled my Bon chance and la prochaine l'annee.
We soon arrived at the town of Tonnerre and pulled into the halte. A bit unimpressed with a silo opposite and boxes of 50's erected flats made the opposite bank look like a Butlins camp. We needed vittals and so under a heavy sky we mounted and headed for the signposted Leclerc. Closed down, we found ourselves circling the boat and headed off into Tonnerre. The supermarkets are always out of town and of course these were on the opposite side of town to the halte. We rode up steep inclines and stumbled on a lidles. At least this was a result. We got to the checkout as the rain started.
Sodden, we arrived back at Doucette and decided on moving on to a small village called Tronchoy where there was alledgedly a "Bon amarrage"
The weather improved as we made our way. The number of hire boats had today increased dramatically and progress was slow. The village moorings did not exist but the banks with the gardens backing on and with the village in the background did indeed make for a very lovely mooring spot.
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