Saturday 15th September Saint Florentin

I tried to call tone. Incredibly 60 today. Too late he had already set off for the golf course so would catch up with him later. Omelettes for breakfast before an early start into town. Saint Florentin is remarkable for its church and it's plethora of antique shops. We planned on heading out to try and see a cheese factory where soumaintrain is made. The village lies just 9km away. So the steeds were employed and we again climbed the 1in 3 up to the town centre.

The town was a buzz. It was market day. We stashed the bikes in the lovely little square with a most delightful dragon decorated fountain. A quick stroll round the corner to the quaint indoor market where we purchased potatoes, leeks cabbage and the most fabulous looking haricot. Very reasonable cost too!

Queued at the boulangerie from outside the shop. This boded well. We had not much need so only purchased a single loaf. Collette wanted to do some window browsing so I escaped back to Doucette to stash the swag. Made a couple of ham and cheese sandwiches to take with us and met Collette back at the fountain square cafe. We sat outside and enjoyed coffee in the hot sun. Lovely.

The internet revealed that soumaintrain was a tiny village which had no cheese factory but simply lent its name to the fabulous cheese produced in this area. Off to the tourist office for inspiration and information. I had an inkling to visit a Chablis vineyard as although never having been white wine drinkers, we both had started to enjoy the aligote burgundy and I felt very ignorant of what is after arguably the second biggest brand in wine after champagne and having passed so close to the town of Chablis where the grand cru grapes are grown on the south facing slopes over looking the town, we really should have a look!

Trouble was, the nearest vineyard open on a saturday was some 18kms away at a place called Maligny. Chablis was a further 5 Kms. We settled on Maligny. The young lady in the tourist office had been so helpful, we left a couple of euros in the tip box and left loaded with brochures and maps on Chablis, auxerre and Joigny for future reference.

The ride was another fabulous run. We stopped at a tiny bar en route and sat in the garden with a much needed beer. The proprietor seeing me reading up on Chablis gave me a full history of the wines and the local abbaye which we must visit he insisted. Not today I explained. He told us all about saint Florentin. Yes we have seen the fountain and the church, I explained. Anyway, another very friendly and helpful Frenchmen.

We cycled through Ligny Le Chatel, the Top end of the Chablis region where the imposing chateau was home to the first vineyard, closed on Saturdays. We were stopped by 4 elderly Americans who having heard us talking as we cycled by hailed us excited to hear English. They had just arrived for two week stay at a gite in this rather remote rural town. Amazingly they came from Seattle Washington state, just as bill and jan our guests of last week had done. It really is a small world.

We got to Maligny and sat under a conker tree next to an old wooden wine press and ate our sandwiches. It had been a long 18kms but the crew was holding up well. The sandwiches had been a master stroke.

 

Arriving at the winery of Olivier and Francine Savary, it was Ferme!!

The gate was open and when I rode across the threshold I heard a buzz. We were desperate, 18kms and closed. I started to regret the tourist office tip having been assured by the girl this was open. With that a lady appeared and opened the door of the cave and beckoned us in. It was Francine. I told her of our quest. She invited us in for a tasting. I offered to pay for the degustation as we would not be buying as we were on bikes. She would have none of it. She whisked us down into the cellar lined with oak barrels.

As we tasted the wines, I got a quick amateurs lesson in Chablis but she just wanted us to taste the wine.

Collette loved a particular bottle and thankfully it was not the grand cru. It was the one wine stored in the oak barrels. I explained to Francine how we always preferred red wines. With that she produced a pinot for us to taste. The was no rushing us and she was very generous with the measures and we tried all four varieties and the red. It was a lovely hour. Our favoured wine was just 9 € per bottle. Collette was very keen so we at least purchased a couple of bottles to help weigh down my saddlebags for the return trip. The shame was that Francine suggested we come to see them at the Chablis fete du vendages which celebrates the end of harvest. Trouble is it is in November so impossible for us. Apparently it is absolutely fantastic.

We cycled a different route back which was equally wonderful but were both pretty knackered as we climbed aboard. There was a note from the so far elusive capitinnaire. Could you phone this tel number to organise payment. 8 € per night. I phoned, it was France afloat offices and I had to leave a message. Zoe called me back. Thank you for your honesty she said, when are you leaving. "Tomorrow"

"we have nobody on site til Monday. If you are passing vermenton some time, perhaps you could drop in and pay the 24€."

I offered to leave it in an envelope and post it in the office but she said that she preferred I did not do that.

All a bit bizarre but I told her I would get it to her some time next year if not this. France is so wierd!

Tony called and we were able to wish the old dog happy 60th. He was on top form, having a great birthday and very excited about our January trip to south Africa to celebrate. Nice one!

We dined on a starters of baby squid and seafood salad for skipper and gambas with mandarins salad for the crew. A cobbed free range chicken( bit chewy again, back to the lidles 3 € me thinks) with the gorgeously chunky haricot. Eppoisse and Roquefort cheese and biscuits for skipper and half a bar of Nestlé for the crew. The electric mysteriously went at about 9 ish but I was still not spared xfactor as I was instructed to switch on the inverter. We watched and enjoyed the opening film episode of pillars of truth and bedded after midnight.

 

 

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