Wed 26th June Floating bollard lock panic

We waited for Nick and Pam who fell in behind with us both hoping to get some kms under our belts today. I managed to get Smeds new Starter on order before departure and prayed it was the right one. The 7 locks to the canal summit were attained by 1pm and we moor canal side to munch cheese salad baguette and a beer.

Avalon looking very posh in matching black fenders

 

 

At last we were on the descent, easy locks! Locks are generally closely spaced near summits and 8 in 4kms would see us at St Julien sur Dheune and more good news after the first lock is that these 5m locks had floating bollards. A cross boats joke with Nick and Pam that we can cleat off and make a cup of tea in the next lock with floaters. We enter the second lock and Collette cleats off on the floater. We drop surprisingly quickly and suddenly Collette lets out a shriek. "Its stopped its stopped"
I leap salmon like down from the poop already aware of the craking of the tension on the cleat. Unbelievably the floating bollard does not go down as far as the water level. I scream cut the rope, Collette is frozen, wheres your knife, its in my pocket, well get it out, i grab it off her and roughly push her clear of the screaming cleat. If it gives, god knows? I slash at the straining rope. The knife goes through it like butter and Doucette slumps down into the still emptying lock. Thank god I had splashed out on an expensive knife, it had paid for itself in that one second.
It had been a very close escape and a real wake up call. With over a 1500 locks experience, we had got complacent and the lock gave us a proper kick up the backside. Our lucky day!
What made it even more lucky had been the fact that Collette who hates having such a sharp knife in her pocket had forgotten to pick it up after lunch but the first lock wall had a split in it and she had retrieved it from the wheelhouse fearing the rope getting caught in the split. She had then gone and changed her shorts as she felt chilly and had remembered only as she came back up from the cabin that she had left the knife in the shorts. It really could have been disastrous darling!

With huge relief we continue thankfully incident free through 10 more locks arriving at the gorgeous basin and quay at St Julien sur Dheune. It has a lovely feel about it, a classic auberge lines the far quay, a pretty church tower signals the village center and the quay provides stone picnik tables and chairs which we take advantage of under the arbour of a tree enjoying tea and biscuits.

 

At 5.15 Nick and Pam join us on the poop and the gordons is under attack.The assault is a great success and they return to avalon a few hours later and a tad merry.
Steak on the magma which is back to usual chewy leathery dissappointment. Sat out late feeling a tad shredded supping a red before joining my comotose crew who had retired early influenced by 5 havanna clubs and coke. ah bliss!

Tuesday 25th June Girl in the canal

A funny old day started with the crew hurting her back getting off of the loo. This could be calamitous news for our skipper who showed great concern and told her off again for her refusal to learn to helm the boat. This was evidence of the absolute neccessity. sadly I cannot repeat he crews response.

Excited for the departure from uk to these shores of Fred & Zoe today on Chartwell. Looking forward to seeing them here soon. Grapefruit, strawberries and greek yoghurt for brekky before a departure en route to the line of demarcation museum at Genelard. Plan to get there at 11am to look round before lunch, then off to Monceau les Mines. The journey provides some great bird spotting

 

 

 

And some very low bridges

 

and even a rather lazy homeowner who has still not taken down the xmas decs

 

 

 All goes well until last lock, no lights. Waited an eternal 25 minutes for the vnf man.

 

 

It was now touch and go for the museum so the race was on but we got to Genelard at 11.35, staked right outside museum. We rushed up to the entrance. Closed on Tuesdays! Now this is all just too much for our normally placid skipper. Shops closed mondays, restaurants closed wednesdays now a museum closed on a tuesday. We just keep getting our timings wrong. I kick the floor in frustration and stub my toe. Ok lets get out of here but first I send the back struggling crew off to the boulangerie some 500m away whilst I ready the boat and get her into the lock ready for her return. The locks close at 12 so we need to get through this one fast. Untie ropes, turn keys, batteries were turned off. Made lock just in time. Lunch at next lock. Pate from fab farm shop, Puy de Angloy cheese. Nice rural stop.

 

Phoned  Mum and Robin. We decided we rather like the Central. Got to Monceau les Mines. Dominated by power station with  a fantastic 1920s built fasade.

 

Through 4 rather gaily painted lifting bridges as we near the city center in busy rush hour, we get priority and its a bit embarrassing but somehow satisfying in a naughty sort of way to watch the faces of the hacked off car commuters sat in long lines of citroens and renaults coughing fumes and a heady mix of booming radio sounds whilst regarding Doucette with nothing but frustration and angst. We had planned on a city stopover but with no room by Nick & Pam and deciding its all a bit too hectic mid town and leaning towards feelings that we should leave Nick & Pam to their friends, we continue 4/5 kms to Blanzy. Nice halte free electric and water. 2 Dutch boats already there of course! Pleased to recieve a text advising that Fred & Zoe  are in France and all good. We take the bikes to Casa which closes at 7, got there at 5.55pm, Staggering, Manageress tells us exceptional today and closing at 6. Leave in disbelief of our current luck with closures and timings. We pop into port to say hi to Nick & Pam and return Hot Fuzz. Their friends  are not there yet so we stay for G&T. Back at Doucette fabulous fajitas for dinner. After dinner the crew turns in for an early night but I fill another glass and sit in the wheelhouse reading when suddenly I hear a huge splash and commotion. A young teenage girl has fallen in. The boys help her out but she looks terrible. A girl runs off. I soon go out with a towel as she is sat on the canal side clearly in shock and very very cold. I offer her a hot drink and ask what is happening. She says nothing but the dude says her friend has gone for dry clothes and everything is cool and he refuses the hot drink on her behalf. I ask how far she lives as she looks grim but the dude assures me all is fine and they will look after her. All a bit dodgy and I decide to keep a vigil as a bit concerned about the girl.  They lurk for an hour and still no return of the friend with dry clothes. At last there is movement and the dude returns my towel with very polite and exaggerated gratitude. The girl never said a word from start to finish and I will never know how she ended up in the canal. Can honestly say I was pretty pleased to see the back of them. Time to turn in.

Monday 24th June. We found religion!

I have never seen so many monstrous sized marquees in my life as were being readied for an evangelical festival starting next week with an expected 200,000 nuts descending on this religious hotbed of a town which is twinned with Bethlehem for goodness sake. We headed in to investigate the town immediately realizing it was monday and so of course everywhere was shut. We needed an orange shop and the net had promised it would be open. We arrived at 9.35am 5mins after the scheduled opening time. We had hardly seen a soul on the way into the centre but as we arrived at the orange store, a queue of 9 people waited service. What is it about the French and their obsession with these appauling stores. We had no choice but to wait and as usual around 30mins patience was rewarded with a young girl who even spoke some english. I awaited the usual incomprehension when I asked for a recharge but was amazed when she replied, no problem sir and true to her word we left 5 mins later with two months recharge set up. wow what a day, do I love orange!
Back to Doucette for eggy brekky and wait for an afternoon town tour when hopefully a few things would be open and the weather might brighten a touch as it was an unusually dull morning.

Time to take in some of the religious history,  The source of this towns religious fervour was the visions of nun Margaret Mary Alacoque in 1673. The story goes that in a series of visions over 18 months she was instructed to set up the devotion to the sacred heart of christ. To cut a long story short, with the help of her publicity agent of the day a chap called father claude de colombiere the followers of the sacred heart grew in number and eventually recieved papal approvals. Margaret was canonised in 1920, Claude later in 1992. Margarets chapel of appirations holds her remains in Paray.

Paray is a beautiful town. The sense of piousness is accentuated even by the abundent use of white flowers to decorate the beautifully kept borders

 

 where even the swans harmonise with the peace of the place.

 

 

First stop the truly magnificent Basilica and cloisters.The cloisters sheltered us from a brief shower

 

 and the roman towers of this remarkable edifice were built in the 11th and 12th century. You can spot slight differences in the design as a result.

 

Inside the importance and wealth of the town is reflected in the immaculate condition of the building, we particularly loved the cieling paintings 

From the back the basilica looked just as impressive.

 

We visited the chapel of appiritions and were pleased to see that the numerous shops selling religious pieces were not as gawdy as I had supposed. We moved onto the 1930`s built chapel with the interred remains of St. Claude de Colombiere. The mosaic works and the gold sarcophagus are stunning in what is a particularly elaborate interior.

Time still to take in an art and stain glass window exhibition in the old hotel de ville where I took a call from smeds who needed a starter motor sourced. It was good to be able to help him for a change.

We left Paray at 5pm only to be held up by a broken ecluse resulting in us failing by one lock to reach our intended destination. Still a cold pork lentils and artichoke hearts provided sustenance after the days trials although we decided the hearts are not for us. Settled to watch Hot Fuzz, leant to us by Pam. Good to have some earthy entertainment after a day of contemplation.

 

Sunday 23rd June Heart warmingly Nice people.

Tea in bed at 7 for the crew, the skipper was certainly frisky today. Fixed a couple more trim pieces and coated the new table. Shaved and ready for inspection by 8, we set off for a Sunday morning stroll taking in the impressive aquaduct over the loire from a rather different viewpoint from yesterday.

 

 

The gardens of grand old houses rambled down to the  old quay along the river. We stopped for a picture on a curiously new modern bench. Why does it always happen?

We did take a good one without her drifting into it!

Back to investigate the town by day, Lovely narrow alleyways

 

it was a very different proposition from the thumping frenzy of music and activity of  just a few hours previous. As always we gravitated to the church being readied for Sunday mass. What a corker!

Talking of corkers, the boulangerie opposite was a wee bit special. We left with a round cob for a change, a fruit tartalette for the crew and a pate en croute (sort of pork pie) for me.

 

The post office is a bit special

 Sunday breakfast was a delight. Bacon sandwiches.

 

We slipped lines at 1pm heading for Paray le Monial, a relatively short hop. As we pulled away from the quay Collette heard a call of Doucette. It was Nick and Pam on Fleury who had just arrived. Nick immediately told us to come alongside for a drink (he has still clearly not sorted his drink problem), we rafted up and caught up on each others winter movements which was lovely. It was a bugger because we would love to have had more time but we really had to crack on so it was all too quick a rendezvous and we were all too soon saying farewells once again. See you when the fog lifts guys!

A nice easy run saw us at Paray by 4ish when a rather lovely thing happened. Whilst securing Doucette, an elderly local couple walking their dog stopped to have a chat. My French was severely tested but we sort of got through. Half an hour later they presented us with their card and Bernard asked if he could take a photo of the crew and I. Michelle his wife found it humerous that there was collette Doucette and the dogs name was chausette. They left and we settled down to a cup of tea musing on how friendly the French are and how maybe it was a reflection of this very important religious town. Suddenly a knock on the wheelhouse.  A beaming Bernard had returned with a printed copy of the photo he had taken and a jar of his own home made abricot jam. I did not quite know what to say. Would that ever happen in blighty? A lovely little incident and we have now contacted Bernard and Michelle by e-mail and they want to follow our blog so nice one! It gave us a nice warm feeling all night. Thank you Bernard and Michelle.

Despite pretty cold and overcast conditions, I cobbed the joint of pork from our farm shop. As with previous purchases it was superb moist and succulent accompanied by lentils and a fromage assiette to finish.

What with seeing Nick and Pam and the incident with Michelle and Bernard, it had been a day to reflect on what a  wonderful time we are having  on these waterways and just how nice people can be still in this sceptical world we live in.  






 

 

Saturday 22nd June Meat Fest

Nick followed me out at 8.30am timed to arrive at the first lock of the day at 9 sharp. We duly arrived to find a waiting French owned boat already waiting at the entrance. Sods law, I think they say! With Nick having a biggun, 13m, it was a two boat only lock so he had a frustrating wait. We had decided to overnight at Digoine whilst they were travelling on with another chums rendezvous to get too. The Frenchmen asked me to overtake him which I duly did on this again delightful cruise. Lock keepers were all very helpful with our lines. As we approached Digoine, I spied a sign for Direct from the farm sales. The queue was 6 deep as we came alongside. I suggested I drop Collette and would wait midstream whilst she got vittles.

5 minutes later the French passed, 15 minutes later with just two people having left the small shop, I pulled into the bank and switched the engines off. 10 more minutes passed and Avalon drifted past thinking we had broken down. Collette finally emerged and returning, I indicated that I hoped it had been worthwhile. She purchased a yellow courgette, a lettuce, a slice of pate, a goats cheese, 2 very thick fillet steaks,  4 merguez and a joint of pork. 4 people had been in front of her in the queue and it had taken 35 minutes and 26 euros. Only in France!

We followed Avalon into the Digoine lock which precedes the hugely impressive aqauduct over the River Loire.

 

 The bridge is high and the canal is very narrow. The wind was straight on the beam and with no speed at all, keeping Doucette straight was proving very difficult. A strong gust and her stbd stern took a loud thud. The fender had ridden up onto the top of the wooden wall and I had a nasty scraze to repair. Despite my slight indignation at this occurrence, it could not detract from the thrill of this passage over the river. We were the subject of many tourists photo`s as we inched across and we did manage to take a couple of snaps of our view from the aqauduct.

 

We waved abientots to Nick and Pam and came alongside outside the capitinnaires office. Water and electric on. Time for food and I suggested the just purchased  merguez hotdogs.  I set off to town for the bread whilst the crew fried the onions. Lunch was superb and I had discovered that Digoine had broken with tradition and the Fetes de la Musique was being celebrated tonight. The merguez were easily the best sausages of the trip which boded well for tonights steak.

The afternoon saw Collette doing her washer women impression and me making a table extension for the poop to enable more room for 4 round the table to eat. Highlight was my biggest FW moment of this years trip. Having completed my task, I needed to fit the brackets for the 3 legs I had purchased at the Vide Grenier in Vermenton eons ago. I borrowed a ships dinner plate and marked the table top and proceeded to drill the 9 pilot holes required. Keen to see the table erected, I affixed the brackets and with the last screw tightened, picked the top up to fit the legs. I fell to my knees incredulous. I beat the unflinching grass floor with my fists. The crew aware of my total disintegration came rushing to enquire what was wrong. I had fitted the brackets to the table top, not the underneath!

I am in desperate need of help and will get to a doctors as soon as I return to blighty. The crew also needs medical help having unashamedly split her sides in the aftermath of my mortification.

A trooper gets straight back on so the repair was effectted with gusto before a trip to the Brico on the wheels of steel saw me purchase the last of the shower room trim. I decided to pop into Leclercs on the return trip and not wishing to leave my 2.5 m trims with the velo, I set about causing havoc in one of those volumous revolving doors which take a ridiculous amount of time to get you in and during which time you are subject to any bad odour your fellow shoppers care to brighten your passage with. Unfortunately my trims only fitted on an angle so I accounted for two spiked toes and almost took an eye out. I was left last to get out as they affected their escape from the flailing English idiot and unfortunately for me, the back of the trim caught in the doors as they revolved shut. A  hefty wrench as I got seriously annoyed with these bloody doors in a falty towers moment, freed it  from  certain destruction.  I entered the store shaking myself off having shown that door who was boss and recomposing myself in front of the all to knowing head shaking onlookers. Of course Leclerc did not have the box of rose I had gone in for as a treat for the crew who had rather liked it on Avalon. They did however had filleted sardines on offer at 8euros a kilo. I took eight fully expecting to lose a couple overboard for a marvellous 2euros 40. Bargain. Picked up a bottle of milky rum stuff for the crew and then I faced the ordeal of the young checkout girl who wanted to charge me for my brico purchased trim despite the fact that leclercs do not sell timber. I just cannot even go there.

Back at headquarters, we had drinks on the poop before I lit the magma and prepared the magnificent looking pair of steaks.  Being of a frugal nature, I had wilted a tad at the 12 euros price tag, but by god they were impressive.

 

This though is no guarantee. Too often, we have been excited at this stage only to find the cooked steaks tough and chewy despite being prepared to rare medium. So, with the salad prepared they got 4 minutes each side.

Butter butter butter melting in mouth. My lips salivate even in this later writing. They were fabulous. At last we were not disappointed by French steak. I just wish the crew had purchased more but that went down like a lead balloon when proffered. They were that big, the salad was unmolested. Now aint that a thing chaps!

As the digestive juices set to work lubricated with some more grand ordinaire, the flow of people towards that characteristic thumping echo of live outdoor music  increased. At 10pm, we joined them. The main street had been pedestrianised and many cafes had stages set up. Some just yards apart where two very different entertainments competed for the same audience. The losing act turning to volume overload in a last vain attempt to entice the watching crowd to watch them.

It was a great atmosphere and there were some very good aswell as some very terrible bands. I was devastated to just miss the American line dancing act in the church square but was compensated by the array of scantily clad young French fillies performing belly gyrating routines in front of a male dominated audience whilst a shifty looking bloke was running around the stage taking pictures and video. I did express my misgivings over this behaviour and on a rare occasion, the crew concurred. Over a glass of wine in the bar supporting this event we agreed that he did seem a little too sweaty and keen and looked like a dodgy 70`s porn filmmaker, but perhaps I am being a tad ungenerous in my observations.

A very young band featured a particularly good lead guitarist who we enjoyed immensely. The drummer looked a little incongruess being at least 25years older than the rest of the rockers.

Back at our first stop having toured the whole town over the last hour and a half,  I wanted to finish with a red wine nightcap and listen to my favourite band of the night playing some more reggae. We sat for 30minutes waiting for them to start whilst a carpenters inspired young couple tirelessly droned out turgid time for a noose numbers. We gave up at midnight and headed back to Doucette and a good nights sleep. As my head hit the pillow I heard a distant recognisable riff and then the words “lets get together and feel alright”. I turned to the wife.

 She was asleep already.

Oh well It had been a mighty marvellous meaty day.

Friday 21st June Bloody Morse Control!

It is Fetes de la musique day in France on the 21^st June every year. Last year we enjoyed it in Verdun despite a dreadful weather day. A year later and we awoke to more heavy overcast conditions and having planned to travel with Avalon today, we were ready to rock at 9am. The rain came at 8.55am. We decided to make the most of free facilities and postpone departure as the skippers trained eye decided the rain was set in for the day. Nick decided to have a go for it and we would catch up later. 25minutes later, blue skies and bright sunshine. If I had been a cricket team  captain, we would not have one too many matches me thinks.

A morning working on the trims for the shower room and collette starting on wheelhouse blinds was well spent. Suddenly it was 1pm. A swift departure through the adjacent lock and we enjoyed a tuna fish salad for lunch on the hour long potter towards the second lock at which we had to wait 10 minutes. It was another delightful cruise through rolling countryside frequently catching glimpses of the great River Loire as we followed its progress all be it ours a more Romanesque route with long straight 3km pounds.

 

 Two locks away from tonights stopover at Pierrefitte-sur-Loire, disaster struck!

I felt a sudden give on the starboard throttle when putting her astern. I had lost reverse gear. Waiting for the lock gates to open with a stiff breeze on the beam and a very narrow stretch, I confused the hell out of the waiting eclusier and Arger in front by slipping in a full 360 piroouette before sliding gracefully into the lock. Heads shook but I smiled and explained and heads shook some more.  

We reached Pierrefitte without further incident and with good fortune smiling on us, a 30m long empty stretch of pontoon with Nick and Pam awaiting us. I got straight to the task in hand and suspecting the clutch cable was the culprit, I lifted floorboards and instructed the crew to engage astern. I was immediately alarmed to see the gearbox switch appear to fully go into astern but clearly there was no drive to the shaft. Unusual for me to fear the worse but I suspected a shot box. Nick had explained how he had a similar issue which was simply resolved by cable adjustment. I called to the crew to engage again, this time I applied a tad extra pressure to the gearbox switch with a lump of mechanics “snap on” supplied  wood. Yippee, she engaged drive. Of course this resulted in another situation with me screaming at the crew to disengage while the boat lurched backwards tearing brutally at the cleats. This was no time for her bloody deaf ear to be on the wrong side but as ever, In the crews own time, the message was duly recieved and she finally eased the throttle back. My mooring lines are all now a foot longer and all cleats have passed tension tests so some good came of the near catastrophe. When asked, “Darling, did you not think to take it immediately out of gear when she started heading backwards”  “I do not know where neutral is?” “perhaps forward somewhere of reverse dear” was my wisely unspoken reposte.

I started on releasing the upper helm throttle and clutch cables at the engine end to give enough slack to raise the upper helm morse. This requires the flexibility of a magicians assistant which sadly I am most definitely not. Having removed the morse before I was also aware that this was not going to be easy but 30minutes later, with the returning Nick offering assistance, we had the throttles raised and separated revealing the clutch cable issue. The bracket which hols the outer cable in position had loosened and the sudden loss of tension I had felt was caused by the outer cable escaping the bracket and hence not enough pull to fully engage the gear. This was great news as no new bits required. I managed to pull the outer back up the inner with a pair of molegrips and refitted the bracket, very tightly.

It took a staggering 2 hours to get it all back together. One nut fitting took the crew and I an hour to get started onto the morse box fixings. Had the guy who fitted this system been anywhere close, he would be in no doubt as to my feelings about the design. I could of course have drilled a large hole in my fibreglass to facilitate access but it seemed a bit extreme.

Very stressed, it was now time to check it all back together. With a cry of relief, she worked. It was now 9pm. Nick saw the lunatic leaping around on the boat in front “come on, you need a gin”, it was the only music to my ears on this fetes de la musique day.  What stars he and Pam are.

 I was keen to have a look at the village reported as very pretty by are hosts so with a late dinner again on the cards, we kept it to just the one large one before investigating Pierrefitte at sunset.

All the reviews were accurate. A delightful village with a particularly warm feel to the town square and eglise.

 

 A fabulous chateau and a great little bar, just closing unfortunately. Back at Doucette, the crew cooked one of her highly regarded macaroni affairs, this one with lardons. I drank more red wine before another midnight retiring.

I drifted into slumbers regretting the ranting and cussing  directed at Doucette earlier and reflected on how calmly the crew had dealt with me in my lost moments before a dull ache in my shoulder induced thoughts of a whinging Debbie Magee telling Daniels, “I just cannot get into that tiny box anymore” . Thankfully  a dark sleepy oblivion brought the curtain down  and that really was magic!

Thursday 20th June Nick and Pam at last

We left Gannay to a dukes of Hazard fanfare from Mary Rose`s airhorns and Jean Claude blowing a toy trumpet as he waved his farewells from the bar. It was a friendly send off from a very friendly stopover. We had a lovely slow drift to Garnat where we pulled in for a long lunch. Rumour from last night was that Aldi was just 500m from here and this had been confirmed by the eclusier at the last lock.  We were out of Saumur. A local lad looked blank when I asked him direction. It was a proxy marche. Garnat was a very pleasant spot and Collette produced a superb warm goats cheese and figs salad for lunch. The honey based dressing was devine.

 

 

 Incredibly, as I sipped the last of my Rose in the heat, a glance south west threatened our bliss. We only just had time to get the covers on before a flash thunderstorm hit. We had planned on a much anticipated reunion  with Nick and Pam on Avalon just 2kms and one lock further downstream but it looked grim. We had been playing catch up with them for a couple of weeks now but at 4pm there appeared to be a break and so we made a dash for it only to arrive at Beaulon in more heavy rain but at last we were soon rafted up to Avalon and a lovely warm welcome of “kettles on”.

Dried and changed we joined Nick and Pam for tea mysteriously clear and tasting a lot like  gin. At 7pm the local garage returned Nicks now repaired starter motor. He plied them with whisky very grateful for the extremely reasonable bill. We moved out to the poop in the brightening evening skies and sunk more gin before I got a bottle of the grand ordinaire out for a degoustation. When Nick and I downed the last of it, we said our goodnights. It was 10pm.

We had our emergency lidles chilli with lashings of emmental rape and crusty bread. Eating this late was becoming a terrible habit. We even put on another awful Sharpe episode. Bean, how did you get away with it?

Wednesday 19th June Old friends and a new canal

Difficult to write but we were genuinely delighted to awake to a cool morning. We checked to see how the new cool box had performed. Ice cold and delighted.
I knocked up a spanish omelette for breakfast before we slipped off to source a french to english plug adaptor for the new cooler and some plywood to finish the shower wall. The staggering 28euro cost of the adaptor and silly 8euro for a tiny bit of poor quality ply sent us back to Doucette empty handed but a stop at Auchen resulted in a rosemary plant and a few more bottles of wine so at least it had not been a totally wasted morning.

We readied the boat for departure and now 1 o`clock the crew slipped off to the capitinnaire to retrieve our 10 euro deposit for the pontoon key. I watched from a distance as there was obviously a problem. Collette was lurking with 3 other people and clearly no sign of the capitinnaire. I suddenly heard a shout of Andy.  It was Steve on Chantelle, we had met at Joigny in september. A very quick catch up as he waited for the lock and a promise to have a beer next time we crossed paths. The lock opened and off he went heading in the opposite direction. Still no movement at the  Captainaires office. This was getting irritating. Chantelle departed the lock and who should come through after him but Aphrodite, we had shared a mooring in Saverne last year and enjoyed drinks aboard a rather lovely bourn cruiser. Another brief exchange as they headed through the pound waiting for the opposite lock, the one we needed to go through but still no sign of Collette. I watched getting very irritated as Aphrodite locked and I saw her turn right heading towards the Briar canal. Eventually collette returned with tales of not even an apology and we got away joining the Canal lateral a la loire. It was obviously a different canal having its own distinct feel. We passed a small boat, the  owner kindly shouted what a  lovely boat laughing, I thanked him and wished him bon voyage and only then realised it was a birchwood 25. 
one feature of the new canal was longer runs between locks and we luxuriated in  5km and 8km pounds. We decided on stopping at Gannay sur loire, as we pulled out of the lock directly preceeding the halte, I immediately spotted a familiar narrowboat.

 

The Mary Rose, Andy and Wendy had been on the Meuse with us last year and Andy had looked after the boats when we had gone to a midnight son et lumiere in Verdun. This had proven to be much needed as he had had problems with some drunks following a quayside concert and had called the police at 1am an hour before our return. I had been very grateful that he had been on hand to avoid any damage to the boats. He came out and helped me alongside and requested I join him for a beer at the adjacent bar. It was 5.30 and I was very keen. He introduced me to about 10 locals and the owner, Jean Claude, a stereotypical frenchman complete with handle bar moustache and a glint of mischief in his eye. Andy was clearly a bit of a celebrity here and had gifted jean claude with a ferret toy which he clearly loved and just roared every time he set it off. A young couple hit the whisky. I saw them drink 5 in quick time before making there way to their cars and calmly driving off. By 8pm we were the last at the bar and jean claude was buying us drinks. I suggested we should ask the girls to join us. Collette was keen and said she would ask wendy as I got back to the bar. Collette arrived with a short and sweet message for Andy from his wife. Guess his dinner was a gonna. He responded in typical male style. "another round please jean claude" Collette started on Ricard, by 8.30 Andy thought better of it and slipped back to a tricky reception. Jean claude insisted on getting Collette to try his rose and then introduced her to a Moresque which is a ricard with an almond syrup called orgeat. He was such a star and my bill was rediculous, I am sure he bought more drinks than I did. No wonder he was sadly selling up as business was on the decline. It had been a great session.
We fell home to an 11 oclock dinner and much needed bed.
It had truly been a day of old friends and new. We love it here!

Tuesday 18th June Nivernais, thanks for the memories

We spent most of the morning looking at sunshades in Carrefour, LeClerc brico etc but could not source exactly what we wanted so returned emptyhanded. I decided to recharge the gas which was practically out and with availability so close it seemed a good idea. We had Bacon sandwiches as a treat for brunch where we started thinking about smeds setting off on his long awaited adventure. Good luck buddies.  34 degrees today and seriously hot as we slipped the mooring and headed out of the Nivernais. It had lived up to all expectations and we vowed to be doing it all again pretty soon. I asked the eclusiers advice on the town mooring in Decize. Yes no problems, turn left and it is a navigable channel but avoid the left bank which is shallow. I round the bend and head toward the far side of the 50m wide channel. Just over half way across and I start to cut across to the far side. within minutes I was aground in the Loire. With the props making that horrible scrunching sound as they turned in soft mud and a sea of brown stained water swished around the stern, I knew I had to get out rapid or i would be stuck fast. It was not nice, certainly not clever but I had little choice. The river was not going to suddenly rise in this heat so a buggered impellor was cheaper than a tow I figured. With a last push on the throttles I c losed my eyes and hoped. We crawled astern and like a cork out of a bottle doucette suddenly lurched as she freed from the glue and the wash was suddenly clear. A glance at the temp guages and all seemed fine. Close escape that one.
 
A change of canal/river brought a change of lock types with a pull cord giving entry into the newly finished locked port of Decize.

 The marina was a very nice set up, spotted Arger safely tied up. Paid our 9 euros per night and waited patiently for the capitinnaire to come and turn our electric on.
We took the bikes into town. The heat is quite incredible and even the pharmacie sign is wilting as it provides the 46 degrees temperature reading. We have an Ice lolly to try and cool and tour this nice little town. We Stroll into a painting exhibition with a sculpture on loan rom the Louvre. A serious piece and a very proud and friendly chap enlightens us about it as he sits guarding the precious sculpture.

Off to Intermarche for Vittals where we buy a much needed second cool box and investigated more shades. Our return to Doucette is potentially a record for a single load. We carried the coolbox, a rack for BBQ to cook sardines, 15cans lager, 24 bottles Leffe, 3 bottles of rose, 8 litres of water, 1 litre of Yo and 2 litres of squash plus meat cucumber and figs, pretty impressive uh!
 Salmon and paella for dinner was another digestive delight and I was chuffed to speak to Smeds at Newhaven having completed his first leg. He reported a starter motor problem and may need help in aquiring a replacement when he gets across the channel tomorrow. also need to report that the bloody Gnats are hacking us off big time at the moment and we have heard that the gnat problem has been headline news in France due to the heatwave and stormy weather.

Monday 17th June A very hot travel day

Idyllic start today with a healthy breakfast of fresh peaches, honey and yoghurt. 8.30am, and the day took a slight turn as incredibly two boats rounded the bend and lined up behind me for the 9am ecluse opening. Luckily the eclusier would only allow two boats in the lock so that was fine and the boat behind us was french owned Arger who we had shared time with on previous days. With a long travel day planned with 12 locks, we did not fancy being up at the gates each lock and spending half an hour getting through each one. It was during my discussions with the eclusier that Collette decided to launch a torrent of mockery in my direction. I have to admit it was well deserved and I am very grateful for her ripping me to bits for it as she is spot on and i will endeavour to stop it with immediate effect. I have got into the terrible habit of ending each sentance I speak in French with a gallic uh? quel temps, uh? je suis partir a neuf heure uh! To make matters worse I have also attained that annoying Australian habbit of raising the intonation for the uh sound. Basically I sound a bit of a dip so will try hard to lose the uh?

It was a long day of kms and locks and even though it was a beautiful cruise,  it just got hotter and hotter. Lunch was taken outside  a lock and then we moved on. Passing through a very interesting stretch of very old trees with amazing trunk and branch structures.

 

 Felt exhausted from the heat and any shade was a welcome relief

 

At cercy la tour we locked watched over by a huge very white staue of the Madonna

 

Finally reached Ecluse 34 our last of the day at 5.30pm. 37kms and 12 locks completed.  We helped Arger with their lines for the last time today as the heat still made it difficult to stand on the quay out of shade.

 

We moored alongside a Carrefour. I trolleyed 100 litres of fuel and topped the tanks whilst Collette shopped. After the intense heat of the day we suddenly had a flash storm. Despite that I bbq a rabbit for me and steak for the crew. Rabbit is definately a favourite for me. very tasty indeed.

Not sure if it was the humidity or the wine but I spent a sleepless night working out how to get to Disney. It was becoming a very difficult logistical nightmare but one I was determined to overcome somehow.

Sunday 16th June I love my girlies sooo much!

An early morning shower, wanted to be cleansed for fathers day, A lovely long skype with Tony and Rose and calls from my girlies,  all before a  brunch of ham and eggs, , tomatoes and mushrooms. Went on a take some photos stroll,

topped up the water and left this beautiful halte at 1pm. A stunning run through some more lovely scenery before we decided on a rural night moored at ecluse 22.

 

 It proved a difficult berthing with the water very high on the bank and I used the boathooks as poles to help keep Doucette clear of the bank.

 

It was a great setting and I settled down on the poop with an ice cold one to catch up on some blog whilst watching the world go by, it was peaceful bliss, nobody, until the................New Zealanders incident.

A bumper boat entered the lock from the opposite direction. It was a new zealand crowd I had already met on their outward journey at Decize. They were late and were struggling to get the boat back in time. One of there number had jumped ship to prepare the lock and having done this made his way down for a chat. I had committed the mortal sin earlier of thinking they were australians. we had some banter bfore he rejoined the boat and they exited the lock.......sideways. He missed us by inches as the boat was about to complete a full 360. The helm saved the embarrassement of this by thrusting the throttles forward and launching the bow into the bank at speed. The impact noise was horrid however at least the bumper lurched round and headed in the right direction and more importantly Doucette had remained unscathed. The kiwi helm had clearly lost it. The helm over, the 40ft boat now clung to the metal sided bank like glue and he just kept pushing the throttles forward but the helm was obviously steering into the bank. The graunching noise as it battled along the bank with a trail of mud and debris being raked up was enough to make you cry. 50metres further on and the boat had given its all and gave up the fight. The engines cut out and at last the stern was able to drift away from the metal hoardings along the bankside. I assumed he was a gonna and we would be offering tea and biscuits until the le boat rescue squad arrived. Miraculously with billows of smoke, she fired into life again. Looking and sounding like a bride and grooms rattling tin dragging car, the kiwis drifted off up river with a train of grass, weed nettles, twigs  and bushes trailing in its sad wake. It had been an absolutely astonishing but quite magnificent performance. How le boat can make money is beyond me!

 

Suddenly we were once again left alone with our surroundings.  Just the noise of the crickets, the odd moo from a young calf, a distant retort from  a shotgun signalling the end for another bright eyes and the soft whistling from our feathured orchestra.The sun glistened on the canal as at last it lost some of its earlier brutal intensity. A hawk gliding majestically but circling with hungry intent high above the tree line. This was bliss. Time for another cold one.

 

 Carla and stacey had been unable to send me fathers day cards so had both made video cards. I was at last able to download them. This silly old sod nearly cried. Like every other proud dad, I love my beauties to bits. I was just gutted I could not give them both a huge hug right then. It was brilliant and made me just soo happy.

A chicken salad with new potatoes served on the poop coincided with the opening of another earth show. It had been a scorcher and from nowhere there appeared a stack of cloud layers. A clash of Titans as a swirling cauldron of heavy dark clouds rushed under a high bank of pure white cotton. The collision immediately turned the canal into corrugated paper and suddenly the trees were flailing. The cows hit a one way street with a plane to catch under a deep rolling rumble. Then came the forks of lightening, awesome. The crew suggested we take cover but I was loving it and could see how rapidly it was moving past us and doubted we would see rain and just as quickly as it had come the wind had gone. Over coffee we watched and listened to this spectacular demonstration  of natures power. Shards of cracking fork lightening instantly illuminating the now night sky as they battled north. Above in a sea of stars soothed the cows to slumber and signalled us to bedtime.

All was calm, it had been quite a show