Tuesday 30th April evening drinks!

Woken by thunder and lightning at 6am, it was lashing down again. It never eased all day and the river was now hammering along toward Paris at 6 knots. We were starting to get concerned over reports that the Nivernais was closed until the 8^th May due to dangerous flooding and river flows. Lancing confirmed the shaft was being dispatched today so no chance of Friday I lamented.

I cooked a chinese curry enough for 2 days and had planned on a late dinner as we had invited Essex John and Lyn webb over for drinks. They have a home in Normandy and John is a collector of vintage French cars. We had met them last year when our arrivals at Migennes had coincided. They had come down from Normandy a couple of days ago to work on their newly acquired boat. Suffice to say they left at 12.30 after a very pleasant evening and I need more roche mazet and we still have curry for two days.

Thats all folks!

 

Monday 29th April Pontigny and Noyers

 
Ah the sun is shining and life is good. Aday off from boat chores but being a natural grafter I cracked off some varnishing of the new galley trims and the upper helm rails before the crew insisted on an apparently imperative trimming of my nasal and ear hairs. Spruced and groomed, we headed off for a much deserved outing.

Pontigny is a small village on the borders of the chablis region. It is home to an impressive cistercian abbey. We had been told it was a "must visit" last september when stopping for drinks at a close by village cafe on a bike ride to Maligny and a chablis wine tasting adventure.

Down the tree lined drive we strolled in the footsteps of Thomas Becket, who, having fallen out with King Henry 2nd, sought refuge here between 1165 and 1166 prior to his infamous murder at canterbury cathedral in 1170 following his return to England.

 The abbey was spectacular for its open vault like spaces rather than its interior decor. Volumous, the white walls searched upwards toward a rather non descript roof. But, great for a wet wet concert as thoughts of my old chum Robin echoing out "i feel it in my fingers, I feel it in my toes". And so they must have, I thought. As we surveyed the rows of ornately carved monks pews each with their private storage draw hinged under each seat, it was sobering to realise that there was no central heating in them days and it must have been a bit buffed and chuffed on a bleak january day wailing out your morning chant after a mead too many the night before!

We found the tomb of Edmund Rich, A british pilgrim who had been the archbishop of Canterbury before a feud with King Henry 3rd in 1240 saw him flee to Pontigny and become a cistercian. He died in France, was canonised and his remains were later returned to this abbey for interment and who is to this day the saint the folk of Pontigny turn to in their prayers.

It was after 2pm and we were ready for vittals. We were sad to find the stunningly located restaurant in the water mill closed and so headed back down to the relais routiers. We entered as the last of the lunch time truckers was settling his addition. Bonjour tout le monde, est que cest possible a manger. A burst of truckers laughter and a rapid flurry from the auban haired waitress told me she was none to pleased but that we could eat out here in the bar but the restaurant was closed. The bar was a classic, a 1960`s table football dominated the centre of a square room. a bubble gum machine and a 1970`s electronic darts scorer and a dozen toy articulated trucks of various sizes and types was the backdrop for our late lunch. plat du jour was quickly revealed as our only option as the last trucker left and the waitress muttered how the patron had left and she was all alone with a restaurant to clean and now we wanted feeding. Somehow, she managed to convey this in a wonderfully friendly way and we were soon sat down with a glass of sandpaper red and a diet coke, a basket of crispy baguette and poulet vasquez and riz on its way. True to Routiers reknown, it was fabulous and at just 7 euros a bargain.

We headed off passing through the now familiar village of Chablis with its beaucoup de wineries and caves and arrived at the medieval village of Noyers. Classified as one of the top 25 beau villages of France, we soon discovered why? The Lavarie, the walled city with its Tours and ramparts.

The old and oh so quaint timber fronted houses defying the planning officers disdain for a wall precariously falling off at a 30 degree angle from straight.

collette loved the detail in the guttering. I loved the carved cellar doors for the barrels to be dropped down from the dray.

 We followed the rapid flow of the river in flood, snaking around the cities boundaries as we headed out and upward to the site of the old chateau which overlooked this beautiful old village. It was a tough climb up some 350 steps all recently constructed by archeology enthusiasts keen to reclaim the chateau from the forest which has now enveloped it.

 

The job of reconstruction is a monster task. At the main site, the crew took advantage of an unmissable opportunity!

 

 

 We found are way, via a delightful woodland walk, to the belvederes east west and south and delighted in the views of this picture postcard village.

It was a satisfying drive back to Migennes after a quite lovely day. Whilst we have been enjoying our boat chores and the atmosphere of the boatyard, today was the France we love and why we are here, great history, stunning scenery and architecture, great food washed down with a euros worth of "nothing wrong with that" rouge. C`est un bon vie!

Sunday 28th April Damp Day In Migennes

We had planned a day out today to take a break from the boat chores. The weather had only improved slightly though and forecast for tomorrow was far more promising so it was a lazy Sunday morning in bed watching a dvd. All was fine until the low battery warning hissed at me from the laptop screen. Impossible! I exhorted, its on the 12 v transformer mains in my newly fitted set up. Sadly for the skipper, something was amiss, the laptop was out of battery and although the transformer showed power and a 19v feed, the laptop was clearly not on charge and not showing power. I apparently displayed  signs of irritation which at least signalled a cup of tea in bed was forthcoming as the crew hastily left me to my mutterings  and headed for the galley.
The situation remained unresolved and it sort of summed up the day really. Damp, a tad dreary and not much to report on. it was very much a potters sunday and a first for this carnivourous captain. Collette discovered a stuffed tomato recipe for the slowie. Although the filling contained ham I considered it my first ever sunday roast from a veggie perspective. Mighty bloody fine it was too though. Nice one chef, we will do that again!

Saturday 27th April Deluge

Why did she wash, I exclaimed upon awakening to the deluge which was to carry on all day. Oh well, flooring up, get the engines fully recommisioned excepting the shaft issue. All the usual last checks and chores done and I replaced the exhaust elbow that Wayne from the club had brilliantly repaired for me in a last minute panic at home when I discovered a leak in the weld. What a star he had been to get the devil of a job done in time. Massive thanks to him. New rocker box gaskets fitted following problems with leakage last year. I reckon I was sent the wrong gaskets last time as the replacements were a far better fit, so fingers crossed for this year.

We also christened the new slow cooker and enjoyed a lovely chicken and vegetable stew with plenty of Roche Mazet. Sadly there was a problem with the satellite finder and I could not get a signal for The Voice so we watched a couple of episodes of Homeland, oh well some times in life you just have to accept that it can be a bitch. Well thats what I tried to explain to the overly beligerant crew anyway. It was saturday so I was drunk before bedtime so as we went to bed, I had a last look at the sad sight of Collette’s washing totally drowned still hanging over the side of the boat. It was going to be a long drying cycle I sniggered smugly. A happy chappy until as my eyes flickered towards the depths of a merlot induced serenity, I was shaken by "its repeated on bbc3 tomorrow" and with that, I plunged into darkness.

Friday 26th April Fabulous Fish Friday

Fish Friday, so it was off to Leclercs to check out the offerings. Always some great deals on a Friday. Morrisons is doing a great job in the uk in improving our fresh fish options but there is nothing quite like a French supermarkets wet fish display. Cod was on offer although still relatively expensive compared to home but it made my mind up. Home made fish and chips was on the menu for tonight.

The day was seriously hot,  on our return from Leclercs and a visit  to the brico (b&q type store) the car registered outside at 86 f. Fantastic! The day was spent drifting through more pottering chores with far too frequent long lazy tea breaks on the sundeck. We did manage to achieve some progress on the chores list, Collette painted the boot line whilst I rubbed down the upper helm rails. The crew had disliked my use of dark wood stain on them which was just as well as I had put them behind the windscreen on the upper helm where in the heat of the last few days they had glued themselves together and to the newly cleaned upper helm. I was less than popular but a few hours later the rails were rid of the 6 coats of stain I had applied and ready for the crew to varnish. However following a long very late lunch on the poop deck with beer  it resulted in a lazy afternoon for our chore weary rugged capitain, although Collette got the washing machine out and was in top gear. As has oft been quoted, ship efficiency is all about a well trained disciplined crew! To demonstrate my capacity for the hard yards, I rubbed down and varnished the bathing platform and polished some of the steel work late into a beaut of a sunset before....... 

Yippee! it was time for fish and chips. I made a thin 1664 based batter and fried it in about an inch of oil in the frying pan. Chips were made very small and par boiled before same treatment in a second pan. Oh my god it was filthy and fantastic. Have that, Cholesterol!!

Retired deliriously happy.

Thursday 25th April Another day at the office

Collette spent the day sewing in new curtain linings by hand, washing, cleaning while I spent the whole day making and fitting a drop down shelf with a 12v supply in the aft cabin. Nothing went right and I was not happy with my days work. Still it was nice to watch an episode of Homeland in bed after a very nice dinner of chicken, rare beef slices and ham with the nicest new potatoes I have had for some time. Marvellous!

Wednesday 24th April - Internet in France, never straightforward

It was another beautiful day so we drove up to Joigny for a stroll round the Wednesday market. This place always brings back happy memories of our superb day at the Fetes du Vendage last September. It was good to have a break from the boat choring.

We decided to head over to the commercial zone and the Orange shop to attempt to get connected to the internet. I had researched at home and was interested in a Domino. This is the size of a mobile phone and is a 3G wireless router to which you can connect up to 5 devices which would mean that I could be on the laptop and Clo on her iPad at the same time. We would still have portability as we just take the Domino and the iPad when away from the boat. Sounded good and we could use the same 20 euro top up giving us 2GB per month.

Why was I not surprised when after 30 minutes in the store, I was told they did not have one and I would need to go to Auxerre.

At least it was a beautiful day to go to Auxerre and so off we went. Found the Orange store without incident and within ten minutes, I had left delighted with the new box. Back at Doucette, we set it up very quickly and finally we were back in the real world. Marvellous. Only issue is, I can receive emails but not send them. A mystery and I am all too soon hacked off. I wonder if I am just getting to old for all this modern technology, all this talk of fibre optic speeds of light, yet every single thing takes an hour. My sister has announced she is gallantly doing a sponsored walk for cancer charity. It takes me 30 minutes to donate a tenner through Just Giving. Is it simple? Or am I?

I decide to lay the new upper helm carpet with the crews help. It is a long job finished as the last rays of sun dip over the trees skirting the river Yonne. We are both delighted with it and celebrate with a bottle of Muscadet.

 

Tuesday 23rd April - Fax away

Simon got the fax off. Mark called and I paid up the horrid bill. I had added a new cutlass bearing and new stern gland hoses. Simon had new packing I could have. The deed was done, Mark confirmed a possible delivery in 10 days time.

We spent the whole day on boat chores which was great fun, I now had a feeling of relief that the commitment to the new shaft had been made and hopefully with new hoses and a cutlass bearing, the port shaft issues would be sorted. Simon had the perfect drift and with huge relief and much scary bashing, the old bearing came out fairly easily. What was all the fuss about, I mused!

I had noticed a little seepage of gearbox oil from the gearbox flange. Smeds had advised it may be a loose nut. I checked this but all seemed well and despite turning the gearbox flange several times, I could not replicate the leak so after a chat with Simon, we agreed it may have been a case of disturbance and was actually not an issue. Watch this space I thought but on his advice, it is being left alone.

Monday 22nd April professional engineers thats better!

Simon called at 8.30 with directions to a new engineering company he had located in Migennes.  He explained that the unit was tricky to find and that he would phone ahead and someone would be outside waiting for me. A hurried cuppa and off I went. After trying 2 buildings I found a young chap who had spotted me having seen me pass earlier, the UK number plate. Actually it was just round the corner and sure enough the boss was outside waiting for me. I was escorted in and taken to a chap on a lathe. 20 minutes later, the shaft had been verified as 0.3 mm out of alignment. The boss refused to take any payment and would not even let me give the lathe operator 10 euros for a drink. Bloody fantastic. They had been so helpful. I was both sad at the confirmation but pleased to be sure that a new shaft was required and this was the problem.

Stopping at the boulangerie on my return buzzing with confidence after my chats with the non English speaking gents at the engineering company, all went pear shaped when the young girl asked me what I thought was “do you want it hot or cold” referring to a pain au raisin, I stumbled a reply of cold please but her sniggering revealed that I had clearly got it very wrong. Left red faced with my tail between my legs a bit deflated after earlier successes in the language stakes.

Returned for a very late breakfast before phoning Mark at Lancing to advise that the faxed shaft diagram would be sent as soon as Simon was back from Sens. I set about applying the second coat of antifoul and got the rudders and p brackets painted. Simon returned late in the day, too late sadly to get the fax off for Lancing to start today. He had a look at my cutlass bearing. I was unhappy with it. He confirmed that it needed replacing. You could see where the rubber had melted and blocked some of the waterways. Another first for me would be its removal. Have heard horror stories but that’s for tomorrow.  I reflected, clearly my fouled props incident last year caused a lot more damage than was first realized.

Sunday 21st April a gentle sunday

After a late breakfast, we were soon hard at it. First coat of antifoul applied by the skipper. Props cleaned and polished, shaft measured and diagrams made to the thou. Collette cleaned windows inside and the cabin roof and started refitting saloon curtains. All in all a busy but very nice day in the sunshine.

Saturday 20th April Amateur Engineering

Phoned Mark at Lancing to discuss a new shaft. He breaks the news that the reading on the guage could be misleading if the flexible drive has been distorted. He devastatingly recommends replacing the shaft and all associated fittings without the flexible drive and then checking engine alignment. He also informs me that if I need a new shaft, he will require all measurements to accuracy of 1000.

Oh my god, this is all getting too much for this novice engineer. Simon comes to the rescue by stopping me from replacing the shaft saying that with the boat having been out of the water for 6 months, engine alignment is not reliable and should be done 10 days after refloating. He will find an engineering company who can check the shaft on a lathe to confirm pas bien droite l`arbre(bent shaft). I am so grateful but also aware that days are slipping by and Mark had told me that a new shaft would take a fortnight.

The good news was that the weather is just fantastic and we are settling into life in the yard. Old friends have also been arriving to ready their boats and acquaintances are renewed. The atmosphere in the yard reminds us of GCC so we are very happy with our lot. The showers are nice and hot and the loos spotless so all is well in Migennes. I make a start on rubbing down the hull and Clo has made great progress on re-organising the cabins and cleaning the upper helm. Saturday night ends with us still working on Doucette until 9pm. A  couple of swift beers to ease my worsening sciatica, a Rick Stein pork chops recipe for dinner and a few glasses of merlot. Lovely.

Topped off the day with news that Bournemouth have been promoted. Nice one Matty!

Friday 19th April - Today, I will get my shaft out!

After yesterday’s calamities, I awoke with a stolid determination. Collette started on cleaning the upper helm and by 10am I had cleared the wheelhouse and was down amongst it getting greasy. First job was to check the shaft with a dti guage very kindly loaned me by Paul from the club. Reminded me of how lucky I was to be a member of GCC and all the support and friendship we have come to treasure. Lift in supper tomorrow, will miss being there but hope you all have a great night. Will miss it! The guage showed a 15thousandth bend. Huge according to Simon. Ok let’s get it out.

At 7.30pm the shaft was finally extracted from the boat. The interim 9 ½ hours are too tedious and complicated to relate but suffice to say that it was an absolute bitch of a job which had not only me in utter dismay over how this bloody thing was ever gonna come out but having called in Simon Evans, he too was at a loss as to the best way forward. In the end as ever, it was really a case of be brave, cut and remove things and then use brute force with a crowbar.

After a hot shower, Simon joined me for a beer to discuss options.

We fell into bed exhausted but at least the bloody shaft was out!

Thursday 18th April 2013 Why neptune, Why?

Up with the larks on our first morning, well 9.15 actually, but hardly surprising after the horror story of the kiddie`s section the previous night. I wanted to get stuck into the shaft issue but precedent had to be given to re-commissioning the gas and water systems.

Turned on the gas, nothing at the hob. Wierd, it had worked fine two weeks earlier on our investigatory weekend with the Smedlars. I removed the regulator, gas poured out of the bottle. Wierd. Refitted the regulator, nothing getting through, I removed bottle from its compartment and gave it a shake, a healthy wash of liquid gas. Wierd, must be the regulator.

Following a quick trip to Leclerc, new regulator fitted. Damned nation! one exploded, still the same. Ok back to Leclerc to change the gas bottle despite my conviction of its volume. Even the gas bottle attendant displayed surprise at my request for a recharge.

Of course it worked and all was well. To the water I hastily progressed.

Filled the tank, opened the taps and switched on the pump. No water from the taps and no burping gurgling air noises from them however the pump was running hard. I listened intently, nothing but the pump noise, I stood in the saloon surveying when I heard the faint smooth flow of water, It was under the forward bilges. We moved bags and boxes, the carpet and I lifted the boards to find the cold water pipe had come away from a jubilee clipped connection, No split so must have been some airlock to force that off. The bilges forward were half full of fresh water but no worry`s, I refitted the pipe, emptied the bilge and topped the water tank back up. Let`s try again, I confidently asserted.

The pump ran and the newly refitted joint was fine. The loud jet of water heard from somewhere close was not so good. With that a torrent of water cascaded out of the lower crockery, pots and pans cupboards and flowed out of the under oven compartment. Damned nation the skipper exhaled, what rotten luck! Pump off, we set about removing the contents of the galley lower cupboards and drying everything, the dehumidifier was brought into action and the drying process begun. Luckily it was another stunning day and the heat helped.

The cold water copper pipe feeding the gas water heater was scarred with a one inch split. It was in the most awkward of spots. It proved terribly bothersome lying contorted trying to blind cut the offending section out with a junior hacksaw, indeed the skipper`s patience was being sorely tested. However still intoxicated with first day excitement, our gallant skipper soldiered on and finally successfully repaired the damage and surely now all was well.

For the third time, we turn the pump on. Stood in the galley checking my handiwork, I instantly hear that dreaded sound again. This time it is coming from the engine bay. Why has Neptune turned his back on me, I scream.

The hot water pipe has burst off of the calorifier and I have a few gallons of water in my pristine bilges. After spending so much time emptying the system last winter, I am bemused as to what the hell is going on. I repair the connection and swab out the bilges.

Fourth time lucky, YES YES YES YES, GET IN THERE YOU BEAUTY!

I celebrate with a now late afternoon cup of tea and digestive in the sunshine. I hear Collette call, “Darling the water heater pilot is not lighting” It had worked 10 minutes ago so surely it was operator error I reckoned as I hauled my weary limbs back into the galley.

Following an hour of intense diagnostic testing it was discovered the fault lie with the huge d size Duracell max bloody everlasting bloody sodding battery which had unbelievably discharged all its power on a tiny pilot light on a rarely used heater in just one summer. It had been newly fitted last year and should have lasted years. Memo to Duracell in order.

It had just not been our day. Weirdly I went to bed still in a fantastic mood. Despite no progress on the shaft, time was our`s, my newly found karma was interesting. Will it hold I pondered as the crew and I drifted into well earned slumber.

 

Tuesday/ Wednesday April 16/17th 2013 The Return

After a hectic day we set off for the ld lines 11pm sailing. The boat serves up its usual heady cocktail of a passenger list.  Burly eastern European, swarthy Spanish, beer bellied English and under sprayed arm pitted French truckers, groups of north face fleeced geography teachers on yet another field trip, well heeled retired Francophiles returning to their half finished converted barn project with a French plated range rover loaded to the gunnels with fence panels and proper toilet cisterns. The caravan owners somehow looking a tad smug at having their alpine sprints luxuriously equipped “we`ve even got our own microwave” touring homes precariously hanging on to their Volvo estates every turn in tow.

 And, the Lowmans heading back to Doucette for another, hopefully glorious 6 months on the waterways of France.

After a swift brace of stellas, Collette suggested we would be better off sleeping on a 2 inch thick foam mat in the kids play area.

8 hours later with barely 2 hours sleep tucked away a bleary eyed skipper rumbled up the ramp of the norman voyager with murmurings reference the wise decision on sleeping arrangements drifting towards the passenger seat. We were at least greeted by blue skies and a bloody great round yellow thing which it seemed so long since we had seen, we had quite forgotten the name of it, ah it was good to be back in France!

In no hurry, we decided to enjoy the journey by avoiding the motorways. This proved to be a rather good decision. Although an hour longer, we travelled following the banks of the seine bringing back memories of towns and villages visited on our first French trip on Angeline. We passed the extraordinary palace of Versailles, a breathtaking entrance cementing our plans to return for a proper visit later this year. I noted the throng of tourists were all dressed in summer garb, i noted the outside temperature display on the car, 26 degrees, ah it was really very good to be back in France!

As we approached Migennes I suddenly became impatient to see Doucette and get started on all that work. The problem with the port shaft was playing on my mind and the list of other jobs was endless. I was already planning a priority list as we pulled into the familiar gates of Evans Marine International and pulled up alongside our beauty.

After warm greetings with Simon roger and mark, the team at Evans, we set about removing the covers, no mean feat in this glorious heat. I loved the feeling of sweat running down the back of my neck. Next job was also a biggy, unloading the car and Collettes clothes. The crew had taken no chances and had packed for every conceivable situation, marvellous!

We settled down to our first evening drink huddled in a jumble of bags, boxes and cases deliriously happy to be back at Doucette, our home for the next six wonderfully anticipated months on the waterways of France.

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