Monday 29th April Pontigny and Noyers

 
Ah the sun is shining and life is good. Aday off from boat chores but being a natural grafter I cracked off some varnishing of the new galley trims and the upper helm rails before the crew insisted on an apparently imperative trimming of my nasal and ear hairs. Spruced and groomed, we headed off for a much deserved outing.

Pontigny is a small village on the borders of the chablis region. It is home to an impressive cistercian abbey. We had been told it was a "must visit" last september when stopping for drinks at a close by village cafe on a bike ride to Maligny and a chablis wine tasting adventure.

Down the tree lined drive we strolled in the footsteps of Thomas Becket, who, having fallen out with King Henry 2nd, sought refuge here between 1165 and 1166 prior to his infamous murder at canterbury cathedral in 1170 following his return to England.

 The abbey was spectacular for its open vault like spaces rather than its interior decor. Volumous, the white walls searched upwards toward a rather non descript roof. But, great for a wet wet concert as thoughts of my old chum Robin echoing out "i feel it in my fingers, I feel it in my toes". And so they must have, I thought. As we surveyed the rows of ornately carved monks pews each with their private storage draw hinged under each seat, it was sobering to realise that there was no central heating in them days and it must have been a bit buffed and chuffed on a bleak january day wailing out your morning chant after a mead too many the night before!

We found the tomb of Edmund Rich, A british pilgrim who had been the archbishop of Canterbury before a feud with King Henry 3rd in 1240 saw him flee to Pontigny and become a cistercian. He died in France, was canonised and his remains were later returned to this abbey for interment and who is to this day the saint the folk of Pontigny turn to in their prayers.

It was after 2pm and we were ready for vittals. We were sad to find the stunningly located restaurant in the water mill closed and so headed back down to the relais routiers. We entered as the last of the lunch time truckers was settling his addition. Bonjour tout le monde, est que cest possible a manger. A burst of truckers laughter and a rapid flurry from the auban haired waitress told me she was none to pleased but that we could eat out here in the bar but the restaurant was closed. The bar was a classic, a 1960`s table football dominated the centre of a square room. a bubble gum machine and a 1970`s electronic darts scorer and a dozen toy articulated trucks of various sizes and types was the backdrop for our late lunch. plat du jour was quickly revealed as our only option as the last trucker left and the waitress muttered how the patron had left and she was all alone with a restaurant to clean and now we wanted feeding. Somehow, she managed to convey this in a wonderfully friendly way and we were soon sat down with a glass of sandpaper red and a diet coke, a basket of crispy baguette and poulet vasquez and riz on its way. True to Routiers reknown, it was fabulous and at just 7 euros a bargain.

We headed off passing through the now familiar village of Chablis with its beaucoup de wineries and caves and arrived at the medieval village of Noyers. Classified as one of the top 25 beau villages of France, we soon discovered why? The Lavarie, the walled city with its Tours and ramparts.

The old and oh so quaint timber fronted houses defying the planning officers disdain for a wall precariously falling off at a 30 degree angle from straight.

collette loved the detail in the guttering. I loved the carved cellar doors for the barrels to be dropped down from the dray.

 We followed the rapid flow of the river in flood, snaking around the cities boundaries as we headed out and upward to the site of the old chateau which overlooked this beautiful old village. It was a tough climb up some 350 steps all recently constructed by archeology enthusiasts keen to reclaim the chateau from the forest which has now enveloped it.

 

The job of reconstruction is a monster task. At the main site, the crew took advantage of an unmissable opportunity!

 

 

 We found are way, via a delightful woodland walk, to the belvederes east west and south and delighted in the views of this picture postcard village.

It was a satisfying drive back to Migennes after a quite lovely day. Whilst we have been enjoying our boat chores and the atmosphere of the boatyard, today was the France we love and why we are here, great history, stunning scenery and architecture, great food washed down with a euros worth of "nothing wrong with that" rouge. C`est un bon vie!