Awoke and checked iPad. Parcel on course for delivery. At 11 I got astride the steel steed and climbed the hill to the poste. The lady she say no. The really bad news is, la poste closes at noon and that's it for the day. What the hell can I do!
I set up camp in the hotel bar restaurant opposite and upset the patrons. They are sat having lunch before the rush starts at noon. He looks a bit grumpy, she looks worse and mother looks like she should have snakes whirling round her head and I should be instantly turned to stone. Patron knocks me up a grand cafe and I take up vigilante station on the patio. It's 11.15.
Just before noon I drift back to the poste. Madame gives me paper and I write a note to TNT which she allows me to stick on her door, asking them to deliver to the bar en face. Opposite.
I return to the bar and order a beer whilst explaining my predicament to the patron. He is happy to oblige and writes out the hotel address on a card. Not sure what I should do with this but suspect my French has not been perfect again. I am joined by 3 luncheoners. They eat while I enjoy another beer.
The vigil is looking like a test of endurance so I decide on eating too. Madame is still not smiling much but I order plat du jour. charcuterie starter very nice with half a baguette. Main is a stormer. Freshly cooked thick chips and a escalope francontoise. A huge veal escalope covered in a goose featherlight duvet of cheese souffle. No salad and a pichet of vin rouge. Parfait.
Half way through lunch I am approached by a 10 year old on a 10yr olds scooter. He is enquiring as to wether I can spare a cigarette. Shocked and horrified I give him my sternest "non" reposte and off he scoots to report to his waiting chum that the Englishman is indeed
a pig!
Guess some things are the same the world over!
I struggled through my glorious escalope Avec duvet and now smiling madam produced my dessert of fromage.Some soft centred Brie and a slab of delightful goats cheese.
At 14.34 I saw the white van pull up at the post office and watched the chap read my note. I leapt up from my goats cheese and waved frantically. He waved back, got back in the cab and drove out. It was one of those, turn this way please nervous moments, but he pulled straight across and the starter was delivered.
I sat back down and finished my 50cl pichet feeling pretty relieved. Now it was a question of would it do the trick? Also, a bloody heavy big box, how to get it back?
I unpackaged it and got it into a pannier. The hotel patron took the rubbish for me and my 22 euros for the coffee beers wine and 3 course meal. Not bad I thought! The escalope francontoise had been quite superb.
The sun was baking hot and it was nice to freewheel most of the way back down to the boat where the crew were enjoying some shade. I was so very nervous fitting the new starter. Of course it was not straightforward as it was slightly different in design and consequently was catching on the Pre solenoid relay bracket. I was forced to hacksaw a slice off of the bracket but this did the trick.
It was at this moment that my day dramatically improved. Stacey rang to give us the fantastic news that she had passed her very significant latest financial exams which she had worked so hard on for the last 6 months. Only 38per cent passed and her results were outstanding so mum and dad were very proud and chuffed for her. Nice one stace.
Back at the coalface and matters arising. In no time all leads were attached and I had to turn the key. It was butt clenching moments, I turned and the little beauty burst instantly into life. I was totally chuffed but suddenly felt drained.
It had been quite a few minutes. I turned to drink, a large gin and tonic was swiftly downed. I text smeds to give him the good news and as Collette set off on the steed for vittals, the guru phoned for a catch up and to congratulate me on getting Doucette sorted. You really are a diamond geezer smedlar.
Collette came back with vittals And a much needed beer top up. I had a sleep in the sun on my new chair listening to a bit of Mozart and relaxing in thoughts of two working engines. I was disturbed in my slumbers by el presidente and serge. They come for the money. They enquired as to progress and were visibly delighted that all was fixed. El prez said I only need pay 4 euros as this was my last night. Much gratitude displayed by me and I gave him 20. He gave me 14 change and a chit with 4euros on it. I just didn't have the heart to tell him he had short changed me. The thought had been so welcomed and nice. We said our last fond farewells and they wished me Bon voyage. More nice French people!
We drifted through the rest of the evening sipping cold beers and hot tea. It was still bloody hot at 10pm. I was horrified to see some young german kids leaping from their grandads boat into the canal. I wanted to shout "dont do it there are bloody vipers in there" but thought I may look a tad foolish.
As for dinner, We just never felt hungry and gave dinner a miss. Fluid was the order of the day and besides we had to toast Stacey's success. Well done baby! It had been a hell of a day and we retired looking forward to getting under way again in continuing our campaign journey tomorrow.
Tuesday, 24 July 2012
Monday, 23 July 2012
Monday 23rd July Richardmenil
Breakfast consisted of Melon, bananas crumble and Greek yoghurt bread and marmalade followed by coffee and tea for the crew.
I Changed solenoid back over and tested with battery direct onto starter. Same clicking. Off to town to the telephone box to Order a new starter express delivery. It was not without difficulty but my french prevailed and the order was safely placed.
Returned to Doucette I set about removing the offending starter motor. It cam off without too much nonsense but as is my life with boats there was something to scare me and send me into a frenzy. The flywheel looked battered. This would be major. I called superstar guru. He asked for photos. Looked to me like the bendix had been bashing into the flywheel cogs and taken the edge of the cogs. Could this be why it was not biting. Oh my god, a new flywheel? I took pics with iPad and emailed them to Steve. I then worked on Tightening the stbd stern gland as it was leaking too freely. It is of course unbelievably difficult to get too one of the nuts and thus my cursing would leave me embarassed in front of the neighbouring dutch barge owners after i buggered my shoulder again and was left in more aching pain. Hopefully it was job done though.
We had been taken by the alsace speciality tarte flambé and had bought all the ingredients as one does but this time we used them and Collette made tarte flambé for lunch. Cooked on the cob they were superb. Will make them again for sure.
Après midi, the Crew had a sleep while I caught up with blog and we spent a glorious evening drinking rum gin and cremant and eating the last of the flambé. I had a good catch up with sis ange on the phone and we went to bed at a fairly decent hour of midnight.
I Changed solenoid back over and tested with battery direct onto starter. Same clicking. Off to town to the telephone box to Order a new starter express delivery. It was not without difficulty but my french prevailed and the order was safely placed.
Returned to Doucette I set about removing the offending starter motor. It cam off without too much nonsense but as is my life with boats there was something to scare me and send me into a frenzy. The flywheel looked battered. This would be major. I called superstar guru. He asked for photos. Looked to me like the bendix had been bashing into the flywheel cogs and taken the edge of the cogs. Could this be why it was not biting. Oh my god, a new flywheel? I took pics with iPad and emailed them to Steve. I then worked on Tightening the stbd stern gland as it was leaking too freely. It is of course unbelievably difficult to get too one of the nuts and thus my cursing would leave me embarassed in front of the neighbouring dutch barge owners after i buggered my shoulder again and was left in more aching pain. Hopefully it was job done though.
We had been taken by the alsace speciality tarte flambé and had bought all the ingredients as one does but this time we used them and Collette made tarte flambé for lunch. Cooked on the cob they were superb. Will make them again for sure.
Sunday 22nd July Richardmenil
I awoke early with intent to try Changing the solenoid for the one from the previously burnt out starter. It had to be worth a try. Everything went fine until of course the removal of the last bolt. The nut was suddenly tight and the bolt started turning with the nut. Buggeration!
With that there was a knock on the window and a jolly faced retired chap babbled some rapid French at me. I picked out Le president association and de l'eau and realised he was the water man. Fantastique, I introduced myself formally to "serge" who had come down on his Sunday morning to sort me out some water. I was delighted. Good old president de l'association!
The well was unlocked and we filled my tanks. We had to move the boat slightly to reach which serge helped me with. We chatted he rapidly me slowly. It worked. Water replenished, I went to turn the lever tap off and remove the hose. The gusher exploded into my groin and I was a dripping soggy limp drowned dishcloth in a flash. The water was ice cold. My groin ached from the ferocity of the impact. Serge had escaped by the skin of his teeth but was overcome by a fit of the giggles. Collette laughed and laughed and laughed some more.
Get me dry clothes I ordered grumpily. Serge was offering aurevoirs as he drifted away desperately trying to control his giggling. I finally started to laugh and called him back to accept a bottle of wine for his Sunday trouble. He did not want to accept saying he did not drink and that it should be for Le president. I forced him to take it and I think he just felt he should do as he was told save this wet lunatic rear up angrily again.
Back to work!
Luckily the bolt completely unthreaded from its seating releasing the solenoieed, but I was left with the arduous task of gripping the bolt whilst trying to remove the nut to remove and clear the hole for the replacement. Took ages but finally got it off although the bolt was a right off at the end.
Replacement fitted I crossed fingers and hoped for that magic sound.
Clunk! Double buggeration! Still it was a different noise but I suspected that this was just an even duffer solenoid or as they say in France, solenoieed!
I ate Greek yoghurt melon and bananas and bread for sustenance. It was a stinking hot day out there!
I called the guru smeds who was trying his best to finally, in this wet summer at home, enjoy some boating on the Lymington rally. He had taken the Evans crew grandchildren. I was much more trouble! Sage advice as usual. Confirm the starter is problem now by attaching battery directly to the starter to confirm its not a dodgy connection somewhere breaking down the power. Then order a new starter. Steve suspects the solenoieed which is about £40. A new starter including solenoieed is £185 so on balance I am opting for the whole shooting match.
The open golf final round is now well under way so I decide to take a break and watch thie conclusion of this whilst Collette catches up on some sewing. The golf got exciting so I would try the battery in the morning. I could not order any parts til then so it was an easy decision.
We sat on the poop for Pre dinner drinks and were surprised by a huge hot air balloon lifting above the trees just behind Doucette. It made for a stunning sight and Collette dashed off to get a picture before it disappeared off too far.
We had an old favourite for dinner. A lidles pork joint cobbed with haricot vert and a bottle of fabulous Cremant.
After dinner we went for a late stroll round the town. It was lovely in the cool of the dark night but a bit scary walking along the dark D road when racing headlights and roar ing engines hurtled toward us. We survived!
With that there was a knock on the window and a jolly faced retired chap babbled some rapid French at me. I picked out Le president association and de l'eau and realised he was the water man. Fantastique, I introduced myself formally to "serge" who had come down on his Sunday morning to sort me out some water. I was delighted. Good old president de l'association!
The well was unlocked and we filled my tanks. We had to move the boat slightly to reach which serge helped me with. We chatted he rapidly me slowly. It worked. Water replenished, I went to turn the lever tap off and remove the hose. The gusher exploded into my groin and I was a dripping soggy limp drowned dishcloth in a flash. The water was ice cold. My groin ached from the ferocity of the impact. Serge had escaped by the skin of his teeth but was overcome by a fit of the giggles. Collette laughed and laughed and laughed some more.
Get me dry clothes I ordered grumpily. Serge was offering aurevoirs as he drifted away desperately trying to control his giggling. I finally started to laugh and called him back to accept a bottle of wine for his Sunday trouble. He did not want to accept saying he did not drink and that it should be for Le president. I forced him to take it and I think he just felt he should do as he was told save this wet lunatic rear up angrily again.
Back to work!
Luckily the bolt completely unthreaded from its seating releasing the solenoieed, but I was left with the arduous task of gripping the bolt whilst trying to remove the nut to remove and clear the hole for the replacement. Took ages but finally got it off although the bolt was a right off at the end.
Replacement fitted I crossed fingers and hoped for that magic sound.
Clunk! Double buggeration! Still it was a different noise but I suspected that this was just an even duffer solenoid or as they say in France, solenoieed!
I ate Greek yoghurt melon and bananas and bread for sustenance. It was a stinking hot day out there!
I called the guru smeds who was trying his best to finally, in this wet summer at home, enjoy some boating on the Lymington rally. He had taken the Evans crew grandchildren. I was much more trouble! Sage advice as usual. Confirm the starter is problem now by attaching battery directly to the starter to confirm its not a dodgy connection somewhere breaking down the power. Then order a new starter. Steve suspects the solenoieed which is about £40. A new starter including solenoieed is £185 so on balance I am opting for the whole shooting match.
The open golf final round is now well under way so I decide to take a break and watch thie conclusion of this whilst Collette catches up on some sewing. The golf got exciting so I would try the battery in the morning. I could not order any parts til then so it was an easy decision.
We sat on the poop for Pre dinner drinks and were surprised by a huge hot air balloon lifting above the trees just behind Doucette. It made for a stunning sight and Collette dashed off to get a picture before it disappeared off too far.
After dinner we went for a late stroll round the town. It was lovely in the cool of the dark night but a bit scary walking along the dark D road when racing headlights and roar ing engines hurtled toward us. We survived!
Saturday 21st July richardmenil to richardmenil
Trip 6kms Departure 11am Locks 4 of 245
Collettes trip to lidles paid dividends today as I was treated to a full cooked brekky including smoked bacon. Luxury.
Filled and very happy we slipped lines and drifted towards the first lock of the day. On exit I was concerned to see a mass of weed growth on both s of the canal for some 300yds and a very narrow clear channel through the middle. A boat was heading towards me. We passed very close both aware of the lurking tangle of trouble but no dramas.
We were quickly through a second and approaching the third which opened straight onto a 150mtr long aqueduct over the shallow but wide Moselle stil running parallel to the canal. I went to start the stbd engine. Nothing. Ok try again, nothing. Bugger balls and bolloxxxx
I managed to turn her and we were very lucky to have a mooring spot very close.
Safely alongside without too many dramas, I started to investigate. Found no obvious issues. The starter motor was just rapidly clicking. Consulted my maintenance bible. Dead battery or bad connection most likely. Phoned the guru. Same advice. I fuelled the genny and gave it an hour while we had fruit for lunch. I had a bad feeling that power was not the issue. I did some voltage drop checks and found nothing obvious.
I took the opportunity to take a couple of snaps of the aquaduct over the moselle through the lock which we had been about to enter and one of our very pleasant mooring but One hour later. Same issues with starting it was definately not a battery problem.
Ok we were not in a good place for this situation so decided on returning to richardmenil where there was electric and water. It was suddenly well gone 4. Collette took the steed to check out the mooring situation whilst I prepared the boat for the return. She reported back that it was filling fast but there was a spot right on the end. Perfect.
We slipped the mooring and safely negotiated the first lock on the one engine. We now approached the weedy lock. The radar post is inside the narrow channel and despite my urgent pressing it was still showing red and not responding. We past the post still nothing, I slowed, Doucettes stern turned towards the encroaching thick weed. Still no response on the radar. This was not the time for lock issues.
Yes it was! I was having terrible problems keeping Doucette within the clear channel as I was forced to turn her round. There was nowhere to moor and I had to get her ashore to use the emergency phone at the lock. She climbed on the bow and I somehow managed to get clear of the weed and she jumped to shore from the sprit. Nice one crew!
She fair sprinted up the towpath and returned minutes later with a thumbs up. She had called and after not comprehending the French response just shouted down the phone, big trouble at lock 45. No steering no engine. Did the trick and Vnf man was there within minutes.
He opened the lock manually and gave me a new radar transmitter. We were through and now just the mooring to negotiate.
The perfect spot at the end was still available and we actually got in with a degree of nonchalance. It was late and I needed a drink. El president dropped by for dues and I explained my issues. He promised to sort out a man with a key to get my water tanks filled tomorrow evening for which I was very appreciative.
I used up the chicken remains by knocking up a Chinese style curry washed down with 1664 and merlot. Things were looking slightly brighter and following another chat with the guru, I ha a plan of action for tomorrow. I slept soundly after a pretty stressful day.
Collettes trip to lidles paid dividends today as I was treated to a full cooked brekky including smoked bacon. Luxury.
Filled and very happy we slipped lines and drifted towards the first lock of the day. On exit I was concerned to see a mass of weed growth on both s of the canal for some 300yds and a very narrow clear channel through the middle. A boat was heading towards me. We passed very close both aware of the lurking tangle of trouble but no dramas.
We were quickly through a second and approaching the third which opened straight onto a 150mtr long aqueduct over the shallow but wide Moselle stil running parallel to the canal. I went to start the stbd engine. Nothing. Ok try again, nothing. Bugger balls and bolloxxxx
I managed to turn her and we were very lucky to have a mooring spot very close.
We slipped the mooring and safely negotiated the first lock on the one engine. We now approached the weedy lock. The radar post is inside the narrow channel and despite my urgent pressing it was still showing red and not responding. We past the post still nothing, I slowed, Doucettes stern turned towards the encroaching thick weed. Still no response on the radar. This was not the time for lock issues.
Yes it was! I was having terrible problems keeping Doucette within the clear channel as I was forced to turn her round. There was nowhere to moor and I had to get her ashore to use the emergency phone at the lock. She climbed on the bow and I somehow managed to get clear of the weed and she jumped to shore from the sprit. Nice one crew!
She fair sprinted up the towpath and returned minutes later with a thumbs up. She had called and after not comprehending the French response just shouted down the phone, big trouble at lock 45. No steering no engine. Did the trick and Vnf man was there within minutes.
He opened the lock manually and gave me a new radar transmitter. We were through and now just the mooring to negotiate.
The perfect spot at the end was still available and we actually got in with a degree of nonchalance. It was late and I needed a drink. El president dropped by for dues and I explained my issues. He promised to sort out a man with a key to get my water tanks filled tomorrow evening for which I was very appreciative.
I used up the chicken remains by knocking up a Chinese style curry washed down with 1664 and merlot. Things were looking slightly brighter and following another chat with the guru, I ha a plan of action for tomorrow. I slept soundly after a pretty stressful day.
Friday 20th July Nancy to Richardmenil
Trip 13 Kms departure 9am Locks 18 of 241
We woke to find the forecast had been right. Heavy threatening cloud. Good news was that there was chance of rain all day but each and every hour was only a 5 per cent chance. we breakfasted on yoghurt and crumble and the last of the compagne sausages.
It was a day of locks. We were going down the canal de jonction. This 10km stretch had been closed for many years due to lack of water and landslips. It provides a link to the canal des Vosges and saves a 50km circuit as only other route option hence We were delighted to find out that it had been re opened this year after much restoration work. We were into the first 5 staircase by 9.10. By 9.15 it was lashing down.
As we left lock number 3 I spied a pecheur. I waved. He stared back at me. I waved again. He just stared back at me. Was he a blind fisherman I wondered!. I waved again and hollered bonjour. He was motionless.
Blind and deaf? Got to be unlikely! I opened my arms and asked Questce que c'est?
He shrugged and shook his unsmiling head in a non gesture.
I suggested that it cost nothing to share cordial greetings.
He waved an arm at me to go away.
I laughed out loud as I clearly was just passing by and shouted at him that life is good and that he should try getting one!
He was about forty and clearly had some serious issues. A bizarre incident which haunted me for the next couple of locks. He had not known I was English as approached bow on so he could not see flag, hence it was not a nationalistic thing, perhaps he just hated boaters. Now that is a theory coz there are some mighty uptight fisherman in France. They really do think the rivers are their own personal domain. In fact some are complete tossers. But then so are some boaters. So let's live and let live and I will continue to wave a cheery greeting to all.
The locks came thick and fast as did the rain but by lunchtime we were pulling alongside the halte at richardmenil. Nice spot overlooking the adjacent Moselle river and spying the town on the overlooking hill. We needed water but the taps were ordinary domestic taps and notices warned of not for filling tanks. I strolled up the hill to town to get some fresh bread. It was 2.15, the boulangerie opened at 3.30. France never ceases to make me smile.
At 7 pm the town mayor came down to collect the 6 euros per night tariff.
We dined on a gorgeous cobbed chicken and tartiflette. Marvellous.
We woke to find the forecast had been right. Heavy threatening cloud. Good news was that there was chance of rain all day but each and every hour was only a 5 per cent chance. we breakfasted on yoghurt and crumble and the last of the compagne sausages.
It was a day of locks. We were going down the canal de jonction. This 10km stretch had been closed for many years due to lack of water and landslips. It provides a link to the canal des Vosges and saves a 50km circuit as only other route option hence We were delighted to find out that it had been re opened this year after much restoration work. We were into the first 5 staircase by 9.10. By 9.15 it was lashing down.
Blind and deaf? Got to be unlikely! I opened my arms and asked Questce que c'est?
He shrugged and shook his unsmiling head in a non gesture.
I suggested that it cost nothing to share cordial greetings.
He waved an arm at me to go away.
I laughed out loud as I clearly was just passing by and shouted at him that life is good and that he should try getting one!
He was about forty and clearly had some serious issues. A bizarre incident which haunted me for the next couple of locks. He had not known I was English as approached bow on so he could not see flag, hence it was not a nationalistic thing, perhaps he just hated boaters. Now that is a theory coz there are some mighty uptight fisherman in France. They really do think the rivers are their own personal domain. In fact some are complete tossers. But then so are some boaters. So let's live and let live and I will continue to wave a cheery greeting to all.
At 7 pm the town mayor came down to collect the 6 euros per night tariff.
We dined on a gorgeous cobbed chicken and tartiflette. Marvellous.
Thursday 19th July Lagarde to Nancy
Trip 44kms Departure 09.30. Locks 14 of 223
We awoke early on a drizzly morning. Lagarde lock was just 1 km away so no need to hurry. I was this gobsmacked to first hear the drone of deep throbbing engines and then horrified to see a huge commercial peniche round the bend behind a powerful bow wash. Uncanny. Have hardly seen a commercial and now just when we choose to moor with stakes, along one comes first thing in the bloody morning. Same thing had happened last year outside Reims. Quite incredibly unlucky.
I shouted the crew and we leapt steadily from the boat and held on to her. The barge skipped by and we got a wave from the cheery skipper who I suspect was in stitches before the peniches length was fully past a lurching Doucette. Chuffed to report that the stakes held and no harm done but I was glad we had put both big fenders on the mooring side.
Following that little incident, we settled. No hurry now dear, let's drink coffee and discuss politics while the barge buggers off.
An hour later we approached the first lock of the day at Lagarde. There was a hire Boat in it and ready to exit. Nice one. We waited, there was lots of furrowed brows and questioning from the ecluse incumbents. The bloody doors would not open. Bugger, was this gonna be one of them days! We moored and waited
Usual Vnf efficiency saw us soon entering Lagarde where I spotted Peurto RICO making ready to leave. We got to the next lock and waited a couple of minutes but no sign of him so we pulled the pole and started closing just as he rounded the bend. Buggeration they will think I'll of me.
Next lock we waited even longer but no sign. I nervously gave the order to initiate locking. Pleased that they never appeared. We drifted on all day having lock issues at 3 more locks. I was intrigued by the amount of sunflower planted fields we were now encountering. Was this a specialist area for sunflower seed oil, I pondered? Whatever, they were very pretty even in the overcast conditions! Back to our lock problems I was aware that we had more problems on this stretch than we had thus far been troubled by on the whole trip. Guess it is because They are older type gates which have been mechanised and seem to be very prone. Frustrating but we now appreciate, very much part of a waterways day and you just have to chill and have a drink whilst it gets sorted.
The weather had been windy and showery all day and it was drizzle as we left the lock at the industrial town of dombasle. Collette shouted at me as the gates opened, "viper"
Jesus Christ not again! I was horrified and motionless as I watched another viper swimming right across the front of the gates. I shivered as memories of my Jacque Cousteau episode came flooding back. Please god I never have to enter these dark waters again on this trip. They are alive with vipers.
I snapped a pic hurriedly and almost crashed the boat on the lock wall on exit.
I bloody hate snakes!
But I like macho chickens with attitude!
We got to the nancy epinal embranchment at about 5. I had seen a big intermarche on leaving nancy with tony and rose and thought it very close to here so cracked on to see if I could get fuel and vittals. 1km further and We managed to moor directly opposite the petrol station and wonderful news a lidles too boot. Happy days.
Pretty rough area so it would be a quick sortie and back up river a bit. I grabbed a trolly and got about 200ltrs on board and price was 1.38 per ltr so not too shabby. Mid refuel, Peurto RICO slipped past just too late to get through the last lock into nancy. They moored by the lock. I finished refuelling and watched the boat whilst Collette went to raid lidles. I was ecstatic at the thought of pecan crumble, Greek yoghurt and some more loast pork as the Philopinos say.
The whole Peurto RICO company strolled down on their way to lidles. We chatted about lock problems, they had been caught at 5 locks, the first had resulted in a 30min delay, hence i had not seen them. They joyously reported that Monsieur Durrant had been sent for by the restaurant staff and although he had already eaten he had joined them for dessert and snifters. Nice story. We said our goodbyes and best wishes.
Collette returned with a huge array of goods. I had an absolute fit over the salad dressing. She had been after a bottle of the cheap dressing since the start of the trip. I like to make my own using oil and vinegars. I had needed olive oil desperately and was not allowed to get a litre bottle as it would not fit in the cupboard despite it being an essential I use practically everyday.
She had returned from a solo shop with a full
Itre bottle of cheap salad dressing. The captain went into one and frankly is still angry as he pens this event some days later. Quite unbelievable! It would last years!
we slipped back toward the embranchment and moored bankside with stakes, intent on rising early to keep a wary eye out for commercial invaders. We dined on compagne sauccise a sort of long twirly a la Cumberland sausage accompanied by a pan of my new favourite katofel. I drank merlot to get over the salad dressing nonsense!
We awoke early on a drizzly morning. Lagarde lock was just 1 km away so no need to hurry. I was this gobsmacked to first hear the drone of deep throbbing engines and then horrified to see a huge commercial peniche round the bend behind a powerful bow wash. Uncanny. Have hardly seen a commercial and now just when we choose to moor with stakes, along one comes first thing in the bloody morning. Same thing had happened last year outside Reims. Quite incredibly unlucky.
I shouted the crew and we leapt steadily from the boat and held on to her. The barge skipped by and we got a wave from the cheery skipper who I suspect was in stitches before the peniches length was fully past a lurching Doucette. Chuffed to report that the stakes held and no harm done but I was glad we had put both big fenders on the mooring side.
Following that little incident, we settled. No hurry now dear, let's drink coffee and discuss politics while the barge buggers off.
An hour later we approached the first lock of the day at Lagarde. There was a hire Boat in it and ready to exit. Nice one. We waited, there was lots of furrowed brows and questioning from the ecluse incumbents. The bloody doors would not open. Bugger, was this gonna be one of them days! We moored and waited
Next lock we waited even longer but no sign. I nervously gave the order to initiate locking. Pleased that they never appeared. We drifted on all day having lock issues at 3 more locks. I was intrigued by the amount of sunflower planted fields we were now encountering. Was this a specialist area for sunflower seed oil, I pondered? Whatever, they were very pretty even in the overcast conditions! Back to our lock problems I was aware that we had more problems on this stretch than we had thus far been troubled by on the whole trip. Guess it is because They are older type gates which have been mechanised and seem to be very prone. Frustrating but we now appreciate, very much part of a waterways day and you just have to chill and have a drink whilst it gets sorted.
The weather had been windy and showery all day and it was drizzle as we left the lock at the industrial town of dombasle. Collette shouted at me as the gates opened, "viper"
Jesus Christ not again! I was horrified and motionless as I watched another viper swimming right across the front of the gates. I shivered as memories of my Jacque Cousteau episode came flooding back. Please god I never have to enter these dark waters again on this trip. They are alive with vipers.
I snapped a pic hurriedly and almost crashed the boat on the lock wall on exit.
But I like macho chickens with attitude!
The whole Peurto RICO company strolled down on their way to lidles. We chatted about lock problems, they had been caught at 5 locks, the first had resulted in a 30min delay, hence i had not seen them. They joyously reported that Monsieur Durrant had been sent for by the restaurant staff and although he had already eaten he had joined them for dessert and snifters. Nice story. We said our goodbyes and best wishes.
Collette returned with a huge array of goods. I had an absolute fit over the salad dressing. She had been after a bottle of the cheap dressing since the start of the trip. I like to make my own using oil and vinegars. I had needed olive oil desperately and was not allowed to get a litre bottle as it would not fit in the cupboard despite it being an essential I use practically everyday.
She had returned from a solo shop with a full
Itre bottle of cheap salad dressing. The captain went into one and frankly is still angry as he pens this event some days later. Quite unbelievable! It would last years!
we slipped back toward the embranchment and moored bankside with stakes, intent on rising early to keep a wary eye out for commercial invaders. We dined on compagne sauccise a sort of long twirly a la Cumberland sausage accompanied by a pan of my new favourite katofel. I drank merlot to get over the salad dressing nonsense!
Friday, 20 July 2012
Wednesday 18th July Lutzelbourg to Lagarde
Trip 49 Kms. Departure 10.45 Locks 10 of 209. Arzviller plane incline and 2 tunnels
I slipped up to the boulangerie for a gross pain and baguette and got the magma fired up. Apologised to our swiss hire boat neighbours for the early morning smoke but they we very cordial and interested in my sardines. Half a kilo bqd with a little oil salt and pepper, fresh baguette and a glass of bubbly surrounded by Lutzelbourg scenery and a sunny day was just about as good as a morning gets for this skipper. I am still amazed how the crew manages to de skin her sardines, for me the crispy and best bit.
We were ready for the off and slipped our mooring, Unbelievably right in front of two oncoming hire boats forcing them to slow down. I decided to do the decent thing and pulled over to moor just in front of the lock and let them go through first. Besides, I wanted to get a bit of video of the town which I had omitted to do. It turned out to be a good decision as there was absolute carnage in the lock with the hire boats getting into a jousting competition.
We had a cup of tea and by the time the lock was ready for us we had been joined in the queue by a German flagged boat. Our departure had not been quite so early as I had planned but c'est la vie. We have no hurry.
We exited the lock just in time to take up position directly behind a hire barge leaving the Locaboat hire base situated 200yds after the lock. Still c'est la vie, we have no hurry.
There are 5 locks in the short 3 Kms hop to the plane incline. The German was left out side the first of these locks as we joined the American flagged hire boat. "good morning America" I proffered.
They were over for 6 weeks for there annual Soujorn to the French waterways always hiring from the same company. Exotically they were from puerto Rico.
The lock went fine as did the following four. We approached the plane incline and were in luck as it was just emptying a single boat at the top and we had passed the tourist boat heading in the opposite direction. The puerto ricans tied up as did we and went to watch this engineering marvel in action. It was soon coming down so back to the boat.
As I started the engines I spied the returning tourist boat, bloody hell that was quick. He took no prisoners. Straight through and past us without a sideways glance. The buggers had preference and due to its size only the puerto ricans could fit in with it.
Time for a beer.
It was half an hour before the lift returned again loaded with another tourist boat.
It slipped out and in I went. By this time we had been joined by a German behind and a Frenchman at the rear.
Another great ride up but not without incident. The guillotine style gate had come down smashing the frenchmens davots and loaded dinghy. Quite an entertaining scene of flailing arms and frothing moustache but I was very impressed with the young Vnf man in charge who was totally unmoved throughout and just pointed at the large sign stating " owners travel at their own risk". Enough said.
We exited the lift. I felt like James bond as the cameras of the alighted tourist boat occupants clicked as Doucette became the star of the show. I ordered a shaken not stirred from the crew but only got a shaken and very stirred up crews response. Unreasonable in my humble opinion.
We headed off towards the long niderviller tunnel. Upon arrival, it was very satisfying to see the puerto ricans waiting for a green and as we rounded the final bend green it had flashed up. The puerto ricans went in first with Doucette a close second. Auf wiederhsein pet in bronze with the frothing French moustache running a smoking engined fourth.
The tunnel was cool and we found 5 boats moored waiting for us to get out. I recalled a week ago and felt their frustrated pain. All cheery waves and we were straight past and into the second much shorter tunnel hard on the heels of the Peurto ricans.
The wind had got up to such strength that the anal was producing small wavelets into our bow. The puerto ricans were cooking on gas and I was having to give it a little to keep up. By now I was aware of a certain proximity. I looked back to see the frothing moustache smoking like a pig as he bullied his way alongside auf.
I eased my throttles a tad and soon he was chugging alongside me. Black smoke billowing, it was like leaving jersey marina behind frammo in Betty b. frothing had gone into one over his dinghy and I was happy to let him go. I watched him take out the pert ricans just a couple of clicks on. Fourth to first had probably cost him 30 litres of fuel and a gallon of oil but he had made it. Allez les bleu I cried out into the unlistening wind.
Weather not great we decided to just drift on. By now we had lost contact with the leading two but auf was hot on my tail. Through xouxange where we upset a Danish sailor whos head just shook from side to side in a petulant display of absolute disapproval. I was put out as had dropped my speed to what I considered very slow but quickly realised he was probably still bouncing from the careering Frenchman and the chasing Peurto ricans. I was the final straw I guess. I looked back to see auf wiederhsein pet slip in alongside him. We were down to three.
I eased down on the throttles even more and enjoyed an unhurried run back to the fabulous rechicourt lock. It was almost comical to find the snarling frothing and now foaming Frenchmen and the very nice Peurto ricans waiting for us to fill the lock. They had been waiting for around half an hour. I smiled lots. The Peurto ricans were very chatty and very nice, they were trying to make Lagarde where they had a crazy old friend Monsieur Durrant who they had met 4 years ago. When he had realized they were Americans he had invited them into his house for drinks and had become friends. They had only asked him for the time! Lovely!
The lock was pretty straight forward. We were right at the back and the crew fretted a bit about the lock gates snapping us in half but no dramas.
We had lock issues on two occasions and it was 6.30 when we were approaching Lagarde. I suggested we stay bankside for a romantic proper canal mooring.
We had a brilliant night. Following sardines for brekky, the fish frenzy continued. I opened a bottle of Cremant fizz and we had half a kilo of huge fresh peeled prawns with avocado and salad. Superb.
I put the cod fillets on a bed of courgettes red peppers leeks and cherry tomatoes, sprinkled on some spices and a little butter and steamed them in foil bags on the cob. Waxes lyrical moment!
We watched some deer romping in the fields opposite as the sunset and Charlie Parker blew his horn gently through the poop deck speakers. It was 11.55pm. Just time to make long lingering love to the crew before bed at midnight!
I slipped up to the boulangerie for a gross pain and baguette and got the magma fired up. Apologised to our swiss hire boat neighbours for the early morning smoke but they we very cordial and interested in my sardines. Half a kilo bqd with a little oil salt and pepper, fresh baguette and a glass of bubbly surrounded by Lutzelbourg scenery and a sunny day was just about as good as a morning gets for this skipper. I am still amazed how the crew manages to de skin her sardines, for me the crispy and best bit.
We had a cup of tea and by the time the lock was ready for us we had been joined in the queue by a German flagged boat. Our departure had not been quite so early as I had planned but c'est la vie. We have no hurry.
We exited the lock just in time to take up position directly behind a hire barge leaving the Locaboat hire base situated 200yds after the lock. Still c'est la vie, we have no hurry.
They were over for 6 weeks for there annual Soujorn to the French waterways always hiring from the same company. Exotically they were from puerto Rico.
The lock went fine as did the following four. We approached the plane incline and were in luck as it was just emptying a single boat at the top and we had passed the tourist boat heading in the opposite direction. The puerto ricans tied up as did we and went to watch this engineering marvel in action. It was soon coming down so back to the boat.
Time for a beer.
It was half an hour before the lift returned again loaded with another tourist boat.
I eased my throttles a tad and soon he was chugging alongside me. Black smoke billowing, it was like leaving jersey marina behind frammo in Betty b. frothing had gone into one over his dinghy and I was happy to let him go. I watched him take out the pert ricans just a couple of clicks on. Fourth to first had probably cost him 30 litres of fuel and a gallon of oil but he had made it. Allez les bleu I cried out into the unlistening wind.
Weather not great we decided to just drift on. By now we had lost contact with the leading two but auf was hot on my tail. Through xouxange where we upset a Danish sailor whos head just shook from side to side in a petulant display of absolute disapproval. I was put out as had dropped my speed to what I considered very slow but quickly realised he was probably still bouncing from the careering Frenchman and the chasing Peurto ricans. I was the final straw I guess. I looked back to see auf wiederhsein pet slip in alongside him. We were down to three.
I eased down on the throttles even more and enjoyed an unhurried run back to the fabulous rechicourt lock. It was almost comical to find the snarling frothing and now foaming Frenchmen and the very nice Peurto ricans waiting for us to fill the lock. They had been waiting for around half an hour. I smiled lots. The Peurto ricans were very chatty and very nice, they were trying to make Lagarde where they had a crazy old friend Monsieur Durrant who they had met 4 years ago. When he had realized they were Americans he had invited them into his house for drinks and had become friends. They had only asked him for the time! Lovely!
The lock was pretty straight forward. We were right at the back and the crew fretted a bit about the lock gates snapping us in half but no dramas.
I put the cod fillets on a bed of courgettes red peppers leeks and cherry tomatoes, sprinkled on some spices and a little butter and steamed them in foil bags on the cob. Waxes lyrical moment!
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)