Thursday, 20 September 2012

Thursday 20th September Joigny

We had a lazy morning before strolling to the station to meet Fred and Zoe. Sat in the sunshine and had a beer and a pastis and typical of French railways, their train pulled in spot on time. We waited at our cafe table opposite the station and they spotted us immediately. It was all very emotional and we spent the next hour drinking beers and more pastis catching up.

Strolled back and got them settled before a spot of cheese and pâté and bread for lunch and an afternoon stroll round Joigny. More cafe drinks before pork roast haricot and potatoes, the now traditional welcome meal. We started on a new box of merlot. At 1am, we finished the box and retired very very drunk.

Great day!

Wednesday 19th September Laroche St Cydroine to Joigny

Trip Departure 10. locks

after a boulangerie run we enjoyed Tea and toast and croissants before a gentle ten o'clock departure. As is statutory it seems, just as I started the engines another cruiser appeared round the bend and so it was I followed him toward the first of the 3 locks. I had tried to contact the eclusier on VHF with no joy. This was the first canal where it is very necessary to do this. In your own interests to be fair as the locks are not deep but massive in length and width to accommodate large pusher peniches, not that we had seen a single commercial. Thus they take a long time to fill and empty so Pre warning of your approach 10 to 15 minutes prior is sensible.

Inevitably, as we approached I spotted a hireboat far off on the other side of the lock. It was empty and so we were in for a wait. Engines off, I let Doucette drift very slowly, it was a stunning morning so no worries. The boat was soon nestled and I noted it lifting when I spotted a second vessel far off on the other side. I was dismayed to note the lock keeper leap into action. He aborted the fill, emptied again and waited for the second vessel. And so it was that 40minutes after leaving our mooring, we entered the lock just a 300 metres away.

The second lock was ready and waiting. We followed our company straight in and all was good. I spied a large private cruiser approaching the lock just As the lock gates started to open for us. We all watched aghast as he clearly was not stopping and came hurtling straight toward the lock. It was the most incredible lock incident we had witnessed on the whole trip. He had to see we were bow on surely and had just come through.

The eclusier watched mouth agape and seemed mesmerised until suddenly he started waving frantically and literally started jumping up and down apoplectic. The poor helmsmen on the incoming boat obviously realized his folly and in attempting to emergency stop, managed only to slam his stern into the bank before regaining control and slipping back giving us room to slip by. I offered a cheery wave on passing which was returned a tad sheepishly. I felt for the chap even though he was a plonker.

We pushed on into Joigny following the linsen at a pedestrian crawl, it was an impressive looking place.

Happy with the lovely weather and scenery, we were content to stay behind him despite a speed limit of 15kms per hour which would have made passing easy. It turned out to be a bad decision as of course the linsen took the last free mooring and so we found ourselves nestled on a finger pontoon in the Le boat marina. Close to this delightful hillside town, we had a great view and all facilities. We got chatting with the neighbours and missed the market.

We had a stroll into town. Brilliant medieval village, tiny narrow streets,

4 churches and a chateau and backed by vineyards

Loved it and we looked forward to welcoming Fred and Zoe tomorrow. Know they would love this door knocker.

We cycled to the industrial zone and found a huge intermarche for provisions. Stocked up on merlot, gin and rum. Lovely sunset as we settled into the evening.

 

Wednesday, 19 September 2012

Tuesday 18th September Laroche St Cydroine

I was woken by the sound of my baguettes being delivered by Gary. It was 7.45.

After prunes and yoghurt and some bread we waved them off at 9. The Americans left an hour later following the Aussies to auxerre where their boat was in for a paint job before going on the market. All a bit sad really but after 20 summers on the canals, they had no regrets.

With this lovely spot to ourselves and free electric and water we might aswell avail ourselves and spend what was a lovely sunny day right here. We went for a long walk along the riverbank.

Watched fish caught on the water barrier desperately trying to jump over the concrete wire but simply exhausting themselves with no success. A fishermen was trying his luck down below the wier where any fish coming down river would eventually be swept through. Seemed like a sound plan and it was a delightful setting. We had seen him earlier setting off down the riverbank. He had converted a sit on motorised lawn mower into what looked like a Harley Davidson trike without the wow factor and towed his fishing gear in an old rotting wooden box trailer. Fisherman take more gear than the crew takes on a two week cruise. Not sure why I am flabbergasted as these are fisherman after all, but I am! Actually, this particular chap is one of the nice ones and we get a cheery bonjour.

The rest of the day is spent chillin' we had chilli for lunch and I had a well deserved afternoon siesta. At 6.30 I suddenly realised I had no lardons which I needed for my first attempt at a tartiflette. Aboard the wheels of steel it was a race against time. I ended up back in migennes at atac. Stopped and told they were closing as I just got through the door, I pleaded for two minutes. He gave a smile and I grabbed 6 merguez and a pack of smoked lardons. Phew.

The tartiflette was fabulous washed down with a bottle of Cremant as I watched real Madrid v man city in the champions league and Collette read. Good game, good book! It had been a very pleasant lazy day here on the yonne.

 

Monday, 17 September 2012

Monday 17th September Briancon to Laroche St Cydroine

I was up at 7 trying to sort the electric. Fortunately a liveaboard had a key to the capitinnaire and was able to get a key for the electric junction box. A breaker switched on and we were sorted.

After a long hot, and as the crew intimated, long overdue shower, we sat down to prunes and vanilla yoghurt, followed by fried eggs ham and pain and some pain and orange marmalade. Oh yes mr mannering!

A walk around the town took us to the old Eglise which is mid refurbishment. Dust everywhere so a short visit.

Onto the Louis 15th grand lavoir ( washroom). Brilliant construction, fantastic round curvy roof

and stone stepped entrance down to a crystal clear pool.

Pigeons had squatting rights which they had utilised to maximum effect. Bit stinky really but what a remarkable building.

Found ourselves lost and in the grounds of a chateau converted into some form of school of dance and music. Gardens were nice

We quick stepped our way out and back to Doucette Which looked like a laundry barge with yesterday's washing still out drying in the hot sun. We had time to vacuum the boat and top up water before slipping away at 1.30.

A pretty mundane straight 7 Kms to finish our voyage of the canal de Burgoyne. Closing on Migennes, another complete tosser with a fishing rod who tried to ignore the fact that i was on the waterway. New tactic now as i recognize the signs very early. I watched as a large hire boat got in trouble trying to manoeuvre round some lines, I just pushed the throttles forward and with a roar the tosspot quickly pulls in his line and goes into a frenzy of embittered resentment over our presence on his canal.

I have no problems with the remaining couple of worm downers as I slip to one side of the canal and get cheerful waves and nods of appreciation for slowing and drifting to the side. Being pleasant is so easy and so much nicer. At least it was stinking hot as we entered the final basin at laroche migennes. A freight train carrying hundreds of peugeots to god knows where confirmed that this was not an ideal stop over despite the Le boat depot based here.

I had a late spot of an attac supermarket so cancelled the last lock and dropped alongside. Two quick sorties and 100 litres topped up both engines to almost full. Not bad as last top up was at st.jean de losne some four weeks ago.

Through the last lock of the borgouyne and we were back on a river. The yonne looked huge after the narrowness of the canal and it was lovely to open up the throttles and give Doucette a bit of a go. 15kms per hour on the river. We slipped the few hundred meters down to a ramshackle old boatyard, packed with boats rafter 5 out. I spied a likely looking geezer with long white beard. He motioned for us to raft alongside a newish looking steeler. " I am looking for Simon Evans"

"Look no further!"

This was to be Doucettes home for the winter. I checked out the yard, looked perfect and somewhere I could be comfortable. Arrangements made to lift out with a couple of days notice and to leave the boat here for a week when we return to blighty for the 60th bash next week, he invited us to stay the night but I think realised we were looking for somewhere a little more attractive. Guided us on our way towards a halte at laroche st Cydroine.

The river was just beautiful. The sun was setting. It was all just majestic. Got to the halte to find an impossible gap left between an Aussie yacht and an American steeler. They leapt off their boats and helped us in. We had about a cm each end but made it ok. Chatted for half an hour with the neighbours. Very nice people. The Aussies had come from Brighton in may and this was there 7th year. The Americans were in there 20th year and announced it was to be there last. The problem was the travel from the states and back, they reported.

Sat on the poop had a few beers and caught up on blog whilst the crew soaked her feet and attended herself as women do. Creams lotions cleansers liberally applied, feet, hands painted, what a bloody to do.

We had a visitor at about 7. The American lady had come to offer Collette some 30 books. Within half an hour we had an impromptu quay get together with all six of us in full flow. I finally announced that we needed to eat at just after 9. It was pitch black, pretty nippy and Reece, the 16stone American ex engineer who worked on the heart monitors that were used on the Apollo 11 moon landing mission was mid flow on educating us on the stars. It had been very pleasant and they were all very nice people but my stomache was desperate. Gary, the Aussie offered to get me my baguettes in the morning as they were making an early start for Auxerre and his winter berth.

Collette knocked up our bubble and squeak which we had with the cold pork and pickle. Felt like boxing day!

Another late dinner just before bed. We really must get our timing issues sorted.

 

Sunday 16th September Saint Florentin to Briancon

Trip. Departure 1pm Locks

We had one of those fantastic Sunday mornings laying in bed taking it in turns to go and make tea. eventually we got up at 11.45 and at 12.15 I was hurtling to try and catch the boulangerie. They were clearing the shelves but I got a still warm pain and baguette.

Chicken mayo and gherkin baguettes for brunch and after a stroll taking shots of the marina, we were ready to slip lines at 1pm.

Saint Florintin looks lovely from the lock.

The short trip was yet again gorgeous. We passed through a beautifully tended lock where all hell was breaking loose. Four chaps were running around organising the readying whilst an old couple sipped wine under a sun umbrella. It looked like the French family werer having an afternoon together and we had interrupted the party. I noticed one chap busy taking snaps as we got onto the glide path for final approach. We settle in and I congratulate the old lady on her beautiful flowers. She laughs and points towards the dodgy chap with the camera. All his work. I congratulate him and he practically breaks down in an it's all too much larry Grayson moment. He rushes round toward me launching his camera at mum as he crashes past her. He wants a picture. I am perturbed but hold out a strong manly hand. He grasps it in the wrong hand! This is not a handshake grasp. I smile nervously at the camera wondering what website I will end up on.

I reciprocate and ask him to pose in front of his prize roses. He is chuffed to nuts!

We escape the lock with much ado and I notice the slight change in the tree colours. Autumn is definitely fast approaching, I take a picture of this long straight section looking forward and aft.

We chance upon a fisherman with one of those 15m rods fishing 1m from the far bank. Usual nonsense as he tries to ignore the fact we are on the canal. I am just sick of them now and have run out of patience so I nudge the throttles forward a tad and Doucette burps a throaty "let's have some". It has the desired effect as the fisherman immediately hauls in the rod. I pass and look toward him. As expected he immediately looks away. They really do need help!

Briancon is a halte with improvement works in full flow. We tie up and the smiling rotund capitinnaire, clearly friar tuck in a previous life, comes to rob the rich. 10 euros fully inclusive of electricity and water, a bargain.

I go into pay and am confronted by four ageing hells angels from the dodgy prostate chapter. They all wanted to avail of the wc but were super friendly and I got away without being gang raped. They were all rather impressed with the fact I had crossed the channel in " what in that!"

I departed thinking " yea well hard I am"

The crew unleashed another washing machine frenzy whilst I settled for a cold one on the poop before retiring to the sun deck for a snooze on the sunbeds. I fear we are running out of days like these with the temp now up at 75 and a gorgeous sunny evening in store and manage to persuade the crew to join me. A lovely hour.

I cobbed the pork and readied some buttery mash. Fried some lardons and garlic and added some par boiled haricot and leeks. Boiled some finely shredded cabbage and with a touch of white wine and butter fried them all off together for a couple of minutes. The crew was delighted. Eppoisse and Roquefort with biscuits and the skipper was a happy chappy.

I was then subjected to a further 30minutes of teeth grinding torture as the crew remembered x factor was on again. I really do need to get her medical help!

A dose of piers and roger Moore and I went to bed almost ready to slip quietly overboard and look for Bob Maxwell but salvation was at hand as the electricity suddenly went. Result!

With much glee we retired to the aft cabin. It was 20 past midnight.

 

 

 

 

Sunday, 16 September 2012

Saturday 15th September Saint Florentin

I tried to call tone. Incredibly 60 today. Too late he had already set off for the golf course so would catch up with him later. Omelettes for breakfast before an early start into town. Saint Florentin is remarkable for its church and it's plethora of antique shops. We planned on heading out to try and see a cheese factory where soumaintrain is made. The village lies just 9km away. So the steeds were employed and we again climbed the 1in 3 up to the town centre.

The town was a buzz. It was market day. We stashed the bikes in the lovely little square with a most delightful dragon decorated fountain. A quick stroll round the corner to the quaint indoor market where we purchased potatoes, leeks cabbage and the most fabulous looking haricot. Very reasonable cost too!

Queued at the boulangerie from outside the shop. This boded well. We had not much need so only purchased a single loaf. Collette wanted to do some window browsing so I escaped back to Doucette to stash the swag. Made a couple of ham and cheese sandwiches to take with us and met Collette back at the fountain square cafe. We sat outside and enjoyed coffee in the hot sun. Lovely.

The internet revealed that soumaintrain was a tiny village which had no cheese factory but simply lent its name to the fabulous cheese produced in this area. Off to the tourist office for inspiration and information. I had an inkling to visit a Chablis vineyard as although never having been white wine drinkers, we both had started to enjoy the aligote burgundy and I felt very ignorant of what is after arguably the second biggest brand in wine after champagne and having passed so close to the town of Chablis where the grand cru grapes are grown on the south facing slopes over looking the town, we really should have a look!

Trouble was, the nearest vineyard open on a saturday was some 18kms away at a place called Maligny. Chablis was a further 5 Kms. We settled on Maligny. The young lady in the tourist office had been so helpful, we left a couple of euros in the tip box and left loaded with brochures and maps on Chablis, auxerre and Joigny for future reference.

The ride was another fabulous run. We stopped at a tiny bar en route and sat in the garden with a much needed beer. The proprietor seeing me reading up on Chablis gave me a full history of the wines and the local abbaye which we must visit he insisted. Not today I explained. He told us all about saint Florentin. Yes we have seen the fountain and the church, I explained. Anyway, another very friendly and helpful Frenchmen.

We cycled through Ligny Le Chatel, the Top end of the Chablis region where the imposing chateau was home to the first vineyard, closed on Saturdays. We were stopped by 4 elderly Americans who having heard us talking as we cycled by hailed us excited to hear English. They had just arrived for two week stay at a gite in this rather remote rural town. Amazingly they came from Seattle Washington state, just as bill and jan our guests of last week had done. It really is a small world.

We got to Maligny and sat under a conker tree next to an old wooden wine press and ate our sandwiches. It had been a long 18kms but the crew was holding up well. The sandwiches had been a master stroke.

 
Arriving at the winery of Olivier and Francine Savary, it was Ferme!!

The gate was open and when I rode across the threshold I heard a buzz. We were desperate, 18kms and closed. I started to regret the tourist office tip having been assured by the girl this was open. With that a lady appeared and opened the door of the cave and beckoned us in. It was Francine. I told her of our quest. She invited us in for a tasting. I offered to pay for the degustation as we would not be buying as we were on bikes. She would have none of it. She whisked us down into the cellar lined with oak barrels.

As we tasted the wines, I got a quick amateurs lesson in Chablis but she just wanted us to taste the wine.

Collette loved a particular bottle and thankfully it was not the grand cru. It was the one wine stored in the oak barrels. I explained to Francine how we always preferred red wines. With that she produced a pinot for us to taste. The was no rushing us and she was very generous with the measures and we tried all four varieties and the red. It was a lovely hour. Our favoured wine was just 9 € per bottle. Collette was very keen so we at least purchased a couple of bottles to help weigh down my saddlebags for the return trip. The shame was that Francine suggested we come to see them at the Chablis fete du vendages which celebrates the end of harvest. Trouble is it is in November so impossible for us. Apparently it is absolutely fantastic.

We cycled a different route back which was equally wonderful but were both pretty knackered as we climbed aboard. There was a note from the so far elusive capitinnaire. Could you phone this tel number to organise payment. 8 € per night. I phoned, it was France afloat offices and I had to leave a message. Zoe called me back. Thank you for your honesty she said, when are you leaving. "Tomorrow"

"we have nobody on site til Monday. If you are passing vermenton some time, perhaps you could drop in and pay the 24€."

I offered to leave it in an envelope and post it in the office but she said that she preferred I did not do that.

All a bit bizarre but I told her I would get it to her some time next year if not this. France is so wierd!

Tony called and we were able to wish the old dog happy 60th. He was on top form, having a great birthday and very excited about our January trip to south Africa to celebrate. Nice one!

We dined on a starters of baby squid and seafood salad for skipper and gambas with mandarins salad for the crew. A cobbed free range chicken( bit chewy again, back to the lidles 3 € me thinks) with the gorgeously chunky haricot. Eppoisse and Roquefort cheese and biscuits for skipper and half a bar of Nestlé for the crew. The electric mysteriously went at about 9 ish but I was still not spared xfactor as I was instructed to switch on the inverter. We watched and enjoyed the opening film episode of pillars of truth and bedded after midnight.

 

 

Friday 14th September Saint Florentin

I produced fried potatoes tomatoes and sausages for a healthy start to the day. We decided on a relatively quiet one as the weather was overcast and we had chores. It was nice to discover a note from barrett who had left very early this morning. He thanked me for help with his tv which had solved the problem and wished us well and hoped we would meet again next year and share a drink. Nice touch!

The crew made a start on hulling more walnuts. It was a tiresome task and she deserves great credit for her persistence and determination to complete the task today. I caught up on my blog and drank coffee.

Time for a restock of much needed vittals, we took to the steeds and headed off up Yates another steep hill the 2 Kms the other side of town to intermarche.

Great news was that the Roche mazet merlot boxes were finally back on the shelves. 3 were soon in my basket. Got some more rose and heinekins and a couple of bottles of Cremant. Decided on a jamie style fish curry. Fish is so much more expensive than home over here. Coley is 15€ per kilo. At home it was 7. Shopping trips always take much longer than expected and so by the time we got back, unloaded and lazed through the rest of the day even watching an old james mason black and white whilst the crew triumphantly hulled and scrubbed the last of the nuts.

I watched a bit of my most disliked chefs programme about cookery course F*****g Ramsay! He tried to show how to cook perfect basmati. Complete F*****g B******s you could see the starchy stodgyness when he lifted it on the fork. My delia method is the only fool proof way and you definitely do not wash the rice first. Anyway i rant, but Ramsay is such a ..............

I used a green Thai paste for the curry and it was a big success although I had bought too much fish and it was a struggle to see it all off. The rice was absolutely perfect of course, the one thing I can definately cook better than Ramsay.

Well fed, we slept well after a gentle Friday.