Trip 13 Kms. Departure 10. Locks. 4 of 179 Tunnels 2. Incline boat lift 1
I woke very excited at today's trip. I had been looking forward to this for a long time. Tone and I rode into town to get bread and croissant and we breakfasted on fruit crumble.stracciatelli yoghurt bananas and bread and croissants. That would do for a bamber (starter for ten)
We crossed the port and waited at the entry stretch to the first short 450m tunnel. A boat exited and we were green for go.
The first tunnel is followed by an open 850m where there is room for passing before entry again lights controlled to the 2306m second tunnel. We had a red and so tied up. We waited and watched as 4 maybe 5 trains passed through yards from us.
The sky looked very threatening and I was getting frustrated. We must have just timed it wrong as it only takes about 30 minutes to pass through. With that Rose spotted a light and slowly, very slowly a boat emerged.
At last now we could go. No the lights stayed red. Other boats had now queued behind us. Finally a private barge emerged. At that point it started raining hard so i had to put the covers on, i was not ammused! This thing was doing no more than 1knot. The skipper was clearly very nervous and had taken 45 minutes to complete the passage. It took him another 5 mins to pass me. I noted he was transfixed on the tunnel ahead and was no way making any eye contact. Probably just as well but i soon calmed and thought it could be a new boat to him so ease off skipper. Anyway, Now we finally got green and in we went.
The tunnel was the most impressive I have passed through. Great swathes of it show how the rock was literally hand hewn away. A most awesome task. Above us millions of tons of rock but lets not think about that right now skipper. The tunnel goes on and on, it is damp it is dark and it is chilly, Rails on the narrow towpath still evidence of the small trains which replaced horses ins pulling the old peniches through this long black subterranean passage.
We emerged to glaring sunlight and a line of boats waiting as we had done for a green light. We noticed immediately the scenery had changed to wall to wall forest. The canal appeared to be running uphill as it meandered round the mountain like a helter skelter. After 4 Kms we arrived at the arzviller boat lift.
We moored, spotted the sizeable crowd peering down to the valley below from a gantry. The pleasure trip boat moored in front of us and facing a beached arc in the shape of an old peniche which served as a waterways museum. A tourist cafe and tourist train which takes you to see the now redundant series of 17 locks this incredible engineering structure replaced in 1969, 5 years after the project had been started and at a cost of 7.5million.
The views were simply stunning over the zorn valley. We watched with the crowds as the inclined plane lift ever so slowly started its ascent up the 108m to where we waited.
Suddenly it was up and we were first in line to enter. We boarded and got a green light. I eased Doucette into this weird bath tank. Moored and jumped out to admire the view.
3 other boats joined us. It was quite bizarre to see Doucette bobbing happily in 850 tonnes of water tank held by a few wires at the top of a 108 m drop at 41degrees angle. We were told to board her and not stand on the tiny pontoon. There was a gush of water from the sides of the concrete slope and smoothly and noiselessly we began to descend. We reached the bottom in about 5 minutes, a hell of a ride.
The tank nestled, I wondered how the seals to the canal were made before the guillotine style doors were raised. A clunk and the gate was opening. We slipped out into the canal and gazed back up in awe of this phenomenal feat of engineering. What a day it had become!
Before we had caught our breath after the lift, we had to come to terms with the forest scenery engulfing us in this valley. The 3 km run to the picture postcard village of Lutzelbourg was an artists dream.
The final run under the gaze of the ghosts undoubtedly occupying the ruins of the old castle atop the town.
We locked through the village and made friends with a very nice young student who advised on mooring and sightseeing. Came alongside delighted to find plenty of room and electric and water, although 2€ for 3hrs seemed a bit steep. An American chap helped us with lines, he had a very obvious accent and I was uncertain he understood my British humour when I offered " could tell from your accent your not from these parts, Portuguese?" I got no smile and a hurried exit, I hoped I had not insulted him as he had been kind in offering assistance.
Settled in with baby lambs bleating in the garden alongside us, tony and rose wanted to shower so giving them room said we would go stroll the village and meet them at the lovely looking bar we had spotted by the lock.
We walked the village drinking in its atmosphere. It was dreamy stuff with photo opportunities at every corner. The churches, the streets the hilltop castle ruins, the madonna grotto, the river zorn running through gardens, the frenzy of flowers everywhere.
We sat down at the square as tony and rose walked up. The bar was busy but we got a table and ordered ricards for the ladies and beers for us. The young serving wench was lovely and we noted the quality of the food being served. We would have lunch here tomorrow was the decision.
At this I hurtled back to Doucette to get the cob lit and the pork on. We did not want another midnight feast. I returned to the bar with the girls setting the pace while tony had a jammed brake again as he was considerately waiting for me. We went for ricards.
Back at Doucette, the pork was fantastic and we had another lovely feast and got a bit tipsy before snifters and bed.
Probably the best single day of the whole trip and so fantastic to have shared it with our dear chums.
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