Trip 10kms Departure 2.30 Locks 10 of 189
An early healthy and with lunch in mind gentle breakfast and we were ready to climb to the castle. At least I was, I waited on the towpath and suddenly a blue barge moored some 100m upstream caught my eye, at least the name did. Ettie rung bells. I had it, last year she followed us in a painful last run into Paris arsenal when we got caught behind a very slow moving peniche and we shared the entry lock at Paris. I strolled up and found the owners in the wheelhouse. " excuse me but you were not in Paris last July per chance"
"yes and are your engines still smoking" came the reply. Incredible. We had a good chat when I noticed Collette locking up Doucette so left Ettie with a see you at st John farewell. Tony and rose had followed our recommendation and done a quick tour of the village before the ascent.
We met them at the bar. Not just yet I thought, we will see you later. We crossed the canal and followed the road til an off cut into the woods marked chateau marked the start of the climb. It was steep and tough and pretty dodgy in places. Nearly at the top we heard the beat bop of muted dance music. A lone Japanese appeared through the trees, no camera but an iPod held in his hand was the source of the music. So incongruess with the surroundings.
Despite it being overcast this morning, we pleased of the shade as already the hill was taking its toll, but all was worthwhile. The ruins were a little gem. Great old arched windows and doors hinted at regal past times.
Battlements reminded of its defensive purpose and the views were of course remorseless in there beauty.
We spent a fun 30 minutes exploring and snapping before heading off with thoughts of a nice little lunchtime session below. We decided to go back a different route. We walked and walked and ended up finding signs for ecluse 24 a few Kms further on from Lutzelbourg. We were high on a fantastic wooded hill and looking for a way down. We came across some crazy steep stairs which had been rebuilt in the 60s in honour of the 3 lutzelbourgers who had built them in 1930. We got the very squeely girls down them but no signs which way at the bottom.
Suddenly it was going to be a late lunch but it really did not matter as this walk was proving to be so enjoyable. We followed paths through some great scenery
before finally passing through a tunnel under the railway line and emerging onto the canal near to ecluse 23. A couple of Kms and we were back at Doucette. Onwards to A now much needed lunch.
The restaurant was closed on Mondays. Nightmare. We purchased bread from the thankfully open boulangerie and settled for a huge cheese and pâté fest. Prior to lunch I saw the first commercial peniche so far on this canal. It was up for sale as the owner was retiring and looked in very good order. I took a picture thinking how fantastic this must have looked on the incline lift.
We left Lutzelbourg with a run of just 10kms but 10 locks to go. The first lock keeper told us it would take 3 to 4 hours. Utter nonsense I proclaimed to the crew.
We were through the first few locks in no time and by now we were timing ourselves at 5 mins 30 seconds per lock as the crew got there act together under the watchful eye of the skipper. We got halfway when we rounded the bend and I saw the commercial peniche leaving the lock in front of us. It dawned on me, the retiree. He had passed an hour or so earlier so this was a Total disaster.
After a nightmare 25 minute lock and other boats now behind us, I could see no gain in carrying on wasting fuel keeping behind him so we pulled over and had a cup of tea and sunbathed for 45 mins to let him get far enough in front.
It was a good decision for once, the weather had become hot and we enjoyed a nice sunning and tea session. Back on the road we were soon at saverne.
The lock is the centre of the town and as a big tourist town, you are guaranteed a big audience when passing through. Despite it being 6.45 we had a decent crowd who had just watched the peniche mooring up on the other side. We had timed it beautifully and were straight in. You leave the lock and travel 150m. Turn right and you look right to the great chateau of saverne. We moored at the end of its garden. A dramatic setting but it had taken nearly 4 hours as the man said! The port was actually very busy and we struggled to find a spot until a very nice chap waved that there was a spot inside him we could try. Looked pretty tight but we needed a berth so slipped her in astern and very gently eased her in. We had all adjacent boat owners out helping and although a tight fit, we have been in tighter. We were in and I thanked John for his assistance.
We got settled and headed into town. By now it was nearly 9 and we were struggling for a restaurant. I saw a busy Chinese on the first floor of a lovely timber framed alsacion building. Sold it to the doubting girls and in we went. We had a set menu which was delicious and very reasonable and re ignited my faith in Chinese food in France after the Rethel incident.
All were very happy as we returned to Doucette and snifters and excitedly planning a train ride into Strasbourg tomorrow.
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