Monday 18th June Dun sur Meuse to Consenvoye

Trip Departure 9.30. Locks 4 of 111

We had arranged to top up with fuel at the nautique just a few hundred metres back down river. Cost was only 16 cents per litre more and so it was good value to save a lot of effort in carrying cans from a garage. We got there at our allotted time and thankfully we did as having filled both tanks and starting on he cans, the pump came to a shuddering holt. Finis terminet said our gasoline lady. The rather lovely German yacht waiting to come alongside would be very disappointed. They skulked away having been given the bad news. Trouble was this meant they were just in front of us for the first lock. Weirdly they waved us to go in first. It became clear why when it took them 15 minutes fussing about to secure the damn yacht in the lock and give me the ok to start the fill.

The second lock approach saw a small French owned bayliner waiting. We had seen this boat at several stops. We entered the lock and noted they were sat right on top of the gates. Nasty!

We came up close behind and secured. The keepers were waving frantically at the German yacht to come on in. They were not budging despite there being plenty of room. The lock keeper was clearly very unhappy but started the laborious task of closing the gates and filling for us. As I feared the bayliner got in trouble, the lady was struggling to hold the stern line and was leaning out over the lock. The keeper was shouting and running round to help. I was yelling to her to let go if she had too. The keeper got there just in time and the situation was saved but it had been a genuinely close call and proof that the front of the lock is no place to be when ascending.

After the lock the bayliner clearly put his foot down as by the next lock he was through and gone before we arrived. A little embarrassed I pondered. The journey was pretty unremarkable and we decided upon seeing the lovely empty halte at Consevanoy to call it a day and stop.

We went to investigate this tiny village consisting of a routiers auberge and a gas station. We saw a sign for a german cemetary and i was off. The gas station lady said it was a 10 minute walk. It took us 30. It was overlooking the main road but a copse of trees hid it from all other directions. I was shaken to read that 11148 were laid to rest here. Surely it was not big enough. We then noticed huge tin slabs down the sides and on them long lists of names confirmed the awful truth. The black metal crosses bore the names of 4 fallen each. It was very well tended and the view over the river was lovely. Upon leaving a car pulled up and as i opened the gate i was offered a very pleasant dankershurn. I replied your welcome, not sure why but it was just a moment that made me feel good.

It was interesting to note that the Jewish soldats had round topped stones and not crosses and of course where they fought together in 1917 things became very different just a few short years later.

Our halte up a backwater off the river was a Pretty little spot, we had it to ourselves til 5 pm when 2 Dutch steelers arrived. Helped them with ropes with customary lack of enthusiastic thanks.

 

A campervan arrived. The occupants got sorted and then photos were being taken. I was on the poop deck enjoying a refreshing cold one and slipped over to offer my services for a couples shot. Gratefully accepted and following a long chat and tour of their new wagon, Pierre and Danielle insisted i bring collette over at 7 to try some bubbly muscat.

We had a fabulous couple of hours with them, very very nice people. Even Collette was forced into trying some French. I spoke French and Pierre wanted to practice his English. It was great fun and surprising how much we managed to cover with limited ability in each others lingo. The muscat was gorgeous but I was a tad perturbed to discover it was only 8 per cent volume. We said our bonsoirs and left just after 9pm. Marvellous!

We had a late dinner of coq au vin and merlot before a hand of crib saw Collette go to bed a lot happier than the skipper.