Thursday 14th June Sedan to Mouzon

Trip 15 Kms. Departure 1pm. Locks 2 of 101

Yippee, we awake to a beautiful sunny morning. I stir the crew and while we enjoy smoked ham, cheese and tomato omelettes we are entertained by this mornings Dutch open waterway sprint sponsored by smelne and Pedro. It is a frenzy of coughing engines and hastily removed covers as the race to get to the first lock starts. I am surprised to see La Cascade get involved but age did have its disadvantages and he was last of the seven to leave. By 9 we are all alone in the halte.

I had spotted the campsite warden pinning a notice on the fluvial board during breakfast. So when we set off to visit the famous fort of sedan, I read it on passing. Bugger, it is saying that there is a charge at this halte and all boat owners must report to him. No wonder the Dutch had all left so hastily. I considered how much I needed to see this fort, I could be away in minutes. Collette smiled knowingly and smacked my pert little bottom. The warden seemed delighted to receive us. One night Monsieur? Those bloody Dutch had got away scot free so why not I pondered. "s'il vous plais", I lied. My mind raced, he knows he knows. Thank god he never challenged me but filled in the form and I paid my 11 euros. Frankly a Bit bloody steep by French standards so suddenly I was not feeling so guilty about my naughty little deception.

We got to the fort and circled it trying to find the entrance which due to renovation was at the exit. Of course!

15€ for two and we found ourselves in the biggest fort in Europe. Had a brilliant couple of hours exploring it despite there being 5 coach loads of young schoolchildren coinciding our visit. Actually they were very sweet and were perfectly behaved and well mannered when our paths did cross.

We sat in the castle courtyard in hot glorious sun and Collette sipped a cider while I enjoyed cafe au lait. It was turning into a strange day. The building on the left in the picture below is a very expensive hotel.

We drifted through the old streets admiring the mix of renovated and some dilapidated old buildings noting that even the tacky neon tabac signs seemed to add to the atmosphere of the place. Then moving just 2 streets away from medieval cobbled roads to post war 50s 60s architecture and a horrible huge subway store,s lurid green shop front provided a gruesome backdrop to a lovely 15th century church which had managed to survive the numerous bombardments. It reminded us that French planning and council officials can get it very very wrong sometimes too.

We left sedan at 1.30. It had already been a great day. As I basked in the sunshine Collette had a funny turn and decided she was going to do a johnny cash and clean the boat "properly" one piece at a time.

She started on the side panels and the sun deck. It was a big task. I asked for tea before she started and miraculously got away with it. The trip was as ever delightful. One highlite was seeing a monster herons nest built on a chimney stack. We watched as the babies were fed by the returning mother who had glided majestically directly over our path.

As we turned to arrive at the first lock, we spotted 2 craft had just entered the lock. The second we could see was a hire boat and looked a little sideways on. We were just too far back to join them but I was not sure I wanted too anyway, seeing the nonsense they were making of locking

It was a long wait so we had another cup of tea. Upon leaving the lock we waved cheerily at the Swiss hire boaters who had tied up on exit and were enjoying a cheese and wine Lunch. Bit of a result there I thought, with another lock to go at Mouzon.

As we arrived at aforementioned lock, I spied the other craft entering. It was a Catalac with an Irish flag. I suddenly realized it was the couple from Pont Le Bar. We were close enough to join them in the lock. I watched in amazement as the Catalac entered. The operating bar was on the stbd wall. The Irish went to the port wall, and then Mary started clambering up the very slimy dirty ladder with a rope. She put the rope round a notice board ignoring the bright yellow bollards and was shouting at her husband who had a line attached at the bow. The boat had tiny fenders used for brace lines on stern quarters and was bouncing off the walls with the craft at 45 degrees. They were arguing as to how the lock operated. I called out that the bars were on the stbd side and if they moved forward a few yards I could get close enough for Collette to pull it. This caused more hysterical mayhem as Mary had by now wrapped her line round the notice boards 2 posts and mike was apologising for not seeing the huge red and blue poles on the stbd side and was clearly not listening to his wife. They eventually moved a couple of yards and I edged forward and all was well although with him now close to the front of the lock, filling caused more pain in avoiding open hysterical laughter at their obvious plight in the surge of water.

We found our way to the fluvial which looked a beaut. On a cut off the river, it was immaculate but looked packed at first sight but after an unexpected flurry of shore activity, some of this mornings racers closed up and we were in behind the catalac. Some more decent dutch people to balance the books. I was pleased.

10 minutes after settling a large boat left with the female crew showering me in Flemish about the abbey and felt museum. I thanked her as they climbed through an overhanging tree and she was lost in a moving forest.

After a quiet 30 minutes of sunning and downing a cold 1664 more action, as a stunning 60 feet of steel and shimmering highly polished teak drifted into site with a smaller 42ft smelne both clearly intent on stopping. The only space was past Doucette and Irish at the end of the cut. Shimmer was a beamy bitch and would hardly fit but after being assured of 2metre depth down the cut, in he came astern. I was too busy admiring her to worry about the 6 inch gap between us as he inched past, but all was well and he was in. His mate then came alongside the 50footer in front of me. This proved this guy to be a gentleman. He had moved for me without hesitation and now took on a rafter. Nothing wrong with the Dutch you know!

Only then occurred that we were blocked in and nobody had asked what our plans were, but obviously they would be leaving before us tomorrow so no drama's.

We soaked up the welcome rays and Collette demanded bubbly. I paid the 7.80€ mooring fee which included free wi fi electric,water,showers and use of a washing machine. Collette just showed disdain at this news. Suddenly a very large Dutchman appeared from his campervan in the adjacent aire. This is very dangerous he pointed out as he gestured towards the empty propane bottle on the bow.

" no problem, it's empty"

" is it really empty because in this sun if there is even a little bit of gas in there it will expand and.....

"thank you but it is completely empty, I am waiting to drop it at a garage because it's totally empty"


He clearly did not believe me and shuffled off murmering under his breath.

I needed another drink. What was I saying about Dutch. Did they invent the encyclopaedia?

We went for a stroll to explore this totally delightful town. First the old gateway entrance.

Then the old abbey gardens. Beautiful.

Next the church and the old streets. I loved the place.

And the Marie with the leaning spire.

We got back and I lit the magma. It was time to taste the canard andoulettes. We started with a kilo of asperges which were a delight. The andoulettes looked magnificent and Collette keenly cut off a taster slice. Her face screwed up so tight she looked like a gurner with indigestion as the taster took on missile qualities as it whooshed past my cheek on its way overboard.

Not too good then darling, I offered.

A considered "Not to my taste I am afraid" was remarkably understated.

I tasted and rejected and sadly the andoulettes were given up to the murky depths. We persevered with red wine and bubbly And finished the gros pain with cheese and marmite.

What a day it had been. A little drunk I retired deciding not to put the covers up and leaving the hatch and side panels open to cool us as it was still so warm.