Saturday 9th June Chateau Regnaut to Charleville Meziers

Trip 17 Kms departure 9am. locks 4 of 93

We made an early start back in sunny conditions and had to wait 10 minutes behind a Frenchmen waiting for the 9 am lock opening time. Collette had checked on our tracking but disappointingly the starter was still on an oil rig (plate form translates to oil rig)We joined frenchy in the lock having explained our steering issues in case I made a total hash of things but thankfully all ok. A very nice chap.

At the second lock he explained that a ridiculously tall measuring pole beside the lock with marks distinguishing different years, one such being 1995 were actually heights of water marks. We were speechless. You can just see it in photo below with the red ball on top and the top marker level with the small Wendy house roof.

Upon leaving the lock we noticed with utter glee the Dutch tosser with the barge waiting for us to exit. Oh deep deep joy. It was such justice. He would have to wait at every lock for us. What comes around and all that.

It was a lovely trip back through through this gorgeous valley. We noted the van was still outside the lock keepers cottage. He must be exhausted was the smutty observation from one crew member.

As we came round the bend into the halte at 11.30 there was a shout from below, "it's here" screamed an excited Collette. The halte was full but there is a quay on the opposite side with no facilities. We pulled alongside, Steve and I had 45 minutes to find the post office and retrieve the booty. Passports iPad paperwork wallet, we left the guys to sort Doucette. The race was on. Pumping heart adrenalin surging, Steve drove beautifully. We arrived in the general area and asked 5 different people for directions. This was a nightmare but suddenly we spot an entrance to a lidls. This must be it other shops but no post office. Like starsky and hutch, I leapt from the car while Steve parked, this was french tenement area. On a corner I saw the yellow poste sign. I enter the tiny building, incredibly, 3staff. I approach a counter and show my tracking info on the iPad. He looks and taps his computer. I know this is not happening. He thrusts a bit of paper at me as Steve enters breathless. Ecrire votre nom. I write my name. D'accord he says and rises from his chair. I am exulted, surely not, but yes he returns struggling with a large box. No passport no signature fantastique.

Vive la France, Vive la poste.

Back at Doucette, Steve sets about the replacement with bri on toolbox duty and me assistant to the master. We open the box and all the euphoria dissipates in a second. One of the solenoid copper connections is floppy. The box is damaged, merde! I take pictures but Steve says steady it may tighten up. We get scanners and yippee it tightens. The bashing had loosened it but not actually cracked it, more euphoria.

In no time we are turning the key with the new relay and starter motor fitted. The port engine bursts into life.

Yes yes yes, but wait the charging light is staying on and the engine is not charging. There is a problem with the alternator. Merde again. Wait, I have an alternator spares kit with me. We retrieve it while Steve removes the alternator. The voltage regulator is different. New one has 2 wires, old one 4. Double merde.

It's 4pm Saturday, we head off to the French equivalent of halfords. No joy but can get one Monday perhaps. We return. Steve suggests we have nothing to lose trying the new regulator. We wire it and he gives it a try. Vunderbar. Staggeringly it has done the trick. We are sorted. I hug Steve. Relief and joy immense. What a star he is!

The girls reveal that the Dutch tosser had to go into the pay marina as although there was a space on the main pontoon when he arrived, it had been coned off. He had been back down after mooring to check it all out and had shown annoyance. There is a surprise. We go for a stroll over the gorgeous walk bridge and around the new marina to see Dutchy's paid for berth and smile at the Denmark holland result as we pass.

Turns out there is a national kayak trials taking place on the river tomorrow and boats will not be able to move between 9am and 7pm. We are staying so no probs as sadly its home time already for our wonderful guests.

Brian has been allowed to select the last night meal and so we sit down to a beef bourgignon for dinner. Overfill we have some magnificent cakes for sweet and reflect on a brilliant and eventful week. Tomorrow will be a sad parting.