Thursday 21st June Verdun

A trip to the subterranean citadel followed a swift boat clean and vacuum and a hearty continental breakfast including ham, cheeses breads and jams.

The citadel housed up to 3000 French troops at any time either resting or awaiting to move up to the front. It consists of 7kms of underground tunnels and whilst housing these men also contained hospitals and kitchens for total self sufficiency. The visit was conducted on a ghost train style car which took you through the tunnels offering projected scenes and slowly told the story of the battle. It was another 40mins of terror but superbly done and being in these dark cold tunnels gave an authentic feel to the conditions these men endured.

The Notre dame Eglise followed. The main altar is being renovated so scaffolding was being erected with a couple of stout brave lads clambering round in the rafters but making a right racket as they hammered each pole and bracket into place. The whole church hummed in apparent annoyance at this not so angelic chorus.

The church was still a winner but kept its best til last. We found our way down to the crypt which they were using for services during the renovation. It was beautiful decorated with an array of fresh flowers. Empty, I tested the sound with a quick chorus of wet wet wets you know I love you. A beautiful moment.

Out into the cloisters and another stop yourself moment. Stunning stone masonry. Artisans of the highest order had surpassed themselves and we spent a serene 10minutes.

We strolled round the town and back to Doucette. Collette was bushed so I went alone back to the monster that is Leclerc to get some engine oil and lights for the bikes. I returned with no lights as bloody expensive only for vim to tell me they had booked the son et lumiere and an 8 seater cab for 9 pm. Nice one.

I had also returned to find the fetes de musique had started and two dj's were bouncing some hard core techno off of the pontoon. The boats were bouncing to the incredibly loud vibes. The crews hearing problem had for once been a bonus and she was loving the whole techno vibe scene as she knitted on the poop deck with a nice cup of hot chocolate.

Sadly the sky's were blackening and just as I boldly stated " I think we may get away with it" the was a huge thunder clap, lightning lit up the stage and it came down in spades. It was a clamour to get everything inside but I was mesmerised by the site of the dj"s lighting arch fall on them and their equipment. There was carnage on the dance floor and no lack of blood as one poor scratcher had clearly taken a hit and with his shirt removed he revealed a red mass on his chest running from behind his ear. The very expensive gear and many electric leads were being hauled back into the lightweight gazebo which was pathetic against this deluge. It was tragic to watch and I felt genuine sympathy for the whole team.

The thunderstorm eased eventually and by 9 like turtles on a beach the local populace emerged slowly filling the streets. Small stages had been set up outside various bars and an eclectic mix of musical styles provided entertainment til midnight. From an accordion band at the memorial to blues and jazz, pop around the quay and classical in the park, a stroll round town ensured you found something in your groove. A big crowd were clearly enjoying a raucous singalong with an 80 year old on guitar and a 16yr old on accordian belting out sol amio outside the pizza parlour. I particularly enjoyed a fantastic version of pick up the pieces by an 8 piece jazz group funking away at the old portal gate. It was cool but sadly the heavy bass techno scratchers had suffered too big a hit and loaded their sodden gear into a Luton and hit the road jack as soon as the rain had eased. We also noted that the cables to the pontoon had now been routed through a bit of cut pipe which allowed us to retire and sleep at peace with the world.