Trip 18kms. Departure 9.30. Locks 13 of 447
We awoke on a different planet it seemed. It was windy and very very cold. The temperature drop was crazy. This business of booking in your start time the day before does put a little pressure on and with a rather late fall out of bed time, we were suddenly against the clock.
I dashed down for bread and almond croissants while Collette quickly hoovered and got the boat ready.
We locked at 9.05 with sweatshirts and hoodies back in vogue. At least it was dry. The first 11 locks are over a distance of just 5 Kms so it was in and out but with our student eclusiers on the ball and the crew in good form on the ropes, we fairly hammered through them.
A slow run to Pont royal as we would not make midday closing for the last lock just 200m from our overnight mooring. We drifted along very slowly and got the about 12.30. Gates open, we drift in. Eclusier straight out and closes gates. I am now undecided as to wether we might as well crack on and get through the next staircase of 15 locks. I tell him we may do this. He says ok I will go and finish my lunch to give you time to look at your books and decide. The lock is full and the gates are closed so the crew makes tea and I sit on the back studying maps. With that the heavens open and our decision is made. iPad forecast says rain all afternoon but dry tomorrow so it is a no brainer.
I hear a creak. Then a minute later another. What's that, I call to the crew as I look over the side to see if the fenders are caught. Instantly I realise and am horrified.
Get the knife, I shout
The boat is tied on the centre only thankfully. We have been in the lock for several minutes and thought we were secure waiting as the eclusier had not open the hatches. Water was clearly leaking out though and Doucette had been almost imperceptibly dropping. There was 7 tonne of boat hanging on the rope which was tied off round the centre cleat.
I desperately snatched at the rope end and somehow managed to heave it round the cleat despite it biting on itself. I made it absolutely in the nick of time. With a last heave, the rope cleared, Doucette dropped 2feet and the rope took the skin off my shin and burnt and blistered my little finger but we had got away with it. The cleat had the slightest bow in it. I didn't bare think of the consequences had it given when I was trying to free the rope.
A close shave indeed but all was well except for the now driving rain. The eclusier oblivious to our incident came out and opened up. We drifted out shouting 9am tomorrow.
Pont royal was pretty bare but a good stone quay with electric and water which we did not need to avail ourselves of so saved 6€.
We spent the rest of this rather grotty day vegetating before Collette decided on some homely winter food for dinner. She made very cheesy mash and topped a hot chilli with it. Baked in the oven, it was a real treat.
Had a 45 min catch up call from tone which cheered me immensely and we got to planning some journey logistics for our return home. Flying from orly is not the easiest on public transport but it all works in the end.
We planned an early night for a change but somehow it was still midnight before lights out.
Friday, 31 August 2012
Posted with Blogsy
Thursday, 30 August 2012
Thursday 30th August Vandenesse to Pouilly en Auxois
Trip. 7kms Departure 9am. Locks 8 of 434
We were waiting in the lock by 9 having pulled away from the mooring and snapped a quick picture of the towns delightful array of roofs.
The teams were on time, we had 4 young eclusiers ensuring a rapid smooth transition along the 8 locks over just 3 Kms. We exited the first by 9.05
At lock 5 the chief informs me that there is a problem in the tunnel after last nights storm and we may be delayed. They are trying to repair it.
Ecluse number 4 is spectacularly decorated with a mass of agricultural gear covering the ecluse walls. I go to take a picture. What a bloody time for the camera battery to go flat.
At the penultimate ecluse before the tunnel my man informs that all is fixed and we should not be delayed long.
We reach the the last lock. I am asked to show life jackets for each passenger plus a spare. Working spotlights and I am given a hand held VHF. I sign for a 10.30 tunnel entrance and transit. We drop the radar arch and moor to wait for the tunnel to clear and the green light for go.
At 10.40 we are radios green for go. The first km is a very narrow but lovely approach.
We spy the 3.3 km tunnel entrance and don life jackets and turn on nav and spot lights
the tunnel is majestic. Low and with no towpath, a little claustrophobic as far as steering is concerned. I realise that the radar arch would have been hitting on the outter extremes and every 100 m or so, a surveillance camera takes off another 10inches from the airdraft and I find myself ducking.
We note hanging cables the length of the tunnel and wonder what they are for and are pleased the spotlight works as we go through the centre 1 km with no tunnel illumination and looking behind reveals just how pitch black it would be and impossible to steer the boat in.
we finally exit the tunnel which has been a brilliant experience. Weirdly I immediately remove my life jacket and sweatshirt. We slip down the very narrow exit canal and into the basin which has a handful of boats in. I spot the port moorings over in the corner and we moor in a nice corner right outside the capitinnaires office.
I plug the electric in. It blows. The office is closed until 2 pm. We have a big ton of ravioli to keep us going and I strip out above the aft cabin to check out the mains input plugs. All looks dry but this is the second time after rain, I am having trouble with electric so!
We head off to look at the old tug which was used right up until 1987 to pull barges through the tunnel. Housed in a glass house next to the canal, we also discovered the reason for the cables in the tunnel. The tug was electric and had tram style overhead wires.
Could not believe i helmed Doucette down this narrow canal earlier, t just did not look big enough.
A ride round pouilly before hitting the supermarket for vittals. Back at Doucette, I pay the capitinnaire and get the electric sorted. Top up with water and open a bottle of rose.
We have wifi so spend the evening catching up on loads of Internet stuff before I make a gorgeous fish Passanda with onion rice. Top meal!
We were waiting in the lock by 9 having pulled away from the mooring and snapped a quick picture of the towns delightful array of roofs.
Ecluse number 4 is spectacularly decorated with a mass of agricultural gear covering the ecluse walls. I go to take a picture. What a bloody time for the camera battery to go flat.
At the penultimate ecluse before the tunnel my man informs that all is fixed and we should not be delayed long.
We reach the the last lock. I am asked to show life jackets for each passenger plus a spare. Working spotlights and I am given a hand held VHF. I sign for a 10.30 tunnel entrance and transit. We drop the radar arch and moor to wait for the tunnel to clear and the green light for go.
At 10.40 we are radios green for go. The first km is a very narrow but lovely approach.
We head off to look at the old tug which was used right up until 1987 to pull barges through the tunnel. Housed in a glass house next to the canal, we also discovered the reason for the cables in the tunnel. The tug was electric and had tram style overhead wires.
We have wifi so spend the evening catching up on loads of Internet stuff before I make a gorgeous fish Passanda with onion rice. Top meal!
Wednesday 29th August Pont D'ouche to Vendenesse-en-Auxois
Trip 10kms Departure 1pm Locks 11 of 426
I picked up my two baguettes at 10am. It had been another late start. Nick had told me that Bryony did a roti chicken on Wednesdays and her fat chips Were the best in burgundy. I enquired.
Won't be ready til noon. Why don't you wait and leave at 1pm
I felt I had no option.
Finished off prepping and choring on Doucette and suddenly it was noon and Bryony was heading up the pontoon with my chicken and fat chips.
We lunched early and luxuriantly. The chips were truly magnificent and the chicken was the best roti we had enjoyed. I had a monster chip baguette. Both chicken breasts were saved for Ron.
Farewells to nick and diane and the lovely Bryony and we slipped lines.
The run to vandenesse was glorious
Interesting stretches with steerage challenges for the skipper
And with the chateau a constant sight to savour.
We reached our picturesque overnight mooring
and went in search of a bar Found a jeweller living in a canal side cottage. She invited us in to look more closely, the hound checked us out from upstairs.
It was all jewellery and so I left pretty sharp ish and went to look at an artists work as he was sketching this cottage with the canal as a backdrop. The crew were ages so I went back to save her as I guessed she had been caught. She was fending off a 4800 € pitch for a very ornate and large sculptured dragon. It was an easy save for me.
We found a very quaint English run tea shop but no beer so I suggested to the crew we take the bikes and head back up to chateauneuf. I had a thing about cycling up that hill.
We were aware of a forecast orage bloody big storm to you and me, but the crew agreed and we set off. The climb was ridiculous and we walked the whole route. Both utterly shattered at the top but we ha made it.
Storm clouds were brewing. We took in the streets of this stunning town and visited a brocante shops before heading to the square for a quick drink.
We saw the clouds brewing and debated on wether we had time. The trip back would be very swift so it was a quick beer for me and a cold milk for the exhausted Collette.
The return was seriously steep and full brakes all the way down. It was pretty quick and we were soon at Doucette. Within 5 minutes, it was black we had a gale blowing and thunder and lightning. We had just enough time to batten her down before the rain started hammering down. Quite remarkable bit of timing that!
It lasted about half an hour with trees bending and debris flying past the boat. Extraordinary how quickly it had come and gone with such ferocity.
We settled in for chicken baguettes and smeds called and we had an hour catch up. Nice one! Bed by 11 was even quite nice!
I picked up my two baguettes at 10am. It had been another late start. Nick had told me that Bryony did a roti chicken on Wednesdays and her fat chips Were the best in burgundy. I enquired.
Won't be ready til noon. Why don't you wait and leave at 1pm
I felt I had no option.
Finished off prepping and choring on Doucette and suddenly it was noon and Bryony was heading up the pontoon with my chicken and fat chips.
We lunched early and luxuriantly. The chips were truly magnificent and the chicken was the best roti we had enjoyed. I had a monster chip baguette. Both chicken breasts were saved for Ron.
Farewells to nick and diane and the lovely Bryony and we slipped lines.
We found a very quaint English run tea shop but no beer so I suggested to the crew we take the bikes and head back up to chateauneuf. I had a thing about cycling up that hill.
We were aware of a forecast orage bloody big storm to you and me, but the crew agreed and we set off. The climb was ridiculous and we walked the whole route. Both utterly shattered at the top but we ha made it.
The return was seriously steep and full brakes all the way down. It was pretty quick and we were soon at Doucette. Within 5 minutes, it was black we had a gale blowing and thunder and lightning. We had just enough time to batten her down before the rain started hammering down. Quite remarkable bit of timing that!
It lasted about half an hour with trees bending and debris flying past the boat. Extraordinary how quickly it had come and gone with such ferocity.
We settled in for chicken baguettes and smeds called and we had an hour catch up. Nice one! Bed by 11 was even quite nice!
Tuesday 28th August Pont D'ouche
It was home day for the barfs today. I hate leaving days!
We slept in due to last nights debauchery and had a solid breakfast. Trish had a ham cheese and egg savoury crepe whilst I cooked ham cheese tomato omelettes for Dave clo and myself. I had ordered and received 2 nice fresh baguettes from Bryony.
A couple of coffees and suddenly it was over before it had seemed to have begun. More emotional farewells and we were suddenly waving frantic last goodbyes to our chums. It had been a great couple of days and it was sad that it had been oh so short.
Within 10 minutes of departure, it started to rain and looked grim. Collette still wanted to do her washing and do it she would. Thankfully within an hour it cleared to another beautiful afternoon. We chored and did the springcleaning and got the boat back to just the two of us mode. Fleurie had arrived yesterday and Dave and I had been invited to look her over, I had suggested drinks tonight after dinner and we had arranged bubbly at 8.30 on fleurie.
I had a lot of beef left so I cut it into thin strips, fried off some courgettes and onions in butter added the beef and stir fried it with a green pepper sauce. Served on a bed of mushroom fried rice it was a made up bit of heaven. Showered and made it over to nick and Diane at about 8.45.
Lovely few hours, Cremant, a very nice Tuscan red and a coffee before getting back to Doucette at 12.30 for yet another late night.
We slept in due to last nights debauchery and had a solid breakfast. Trish had a ham cheese and egg savoury crepe whilst I cooked ham cheese tomato omelettes for Dave clo and myself. I had ordered and received 2 nice fresh baguettes from Bryony.
A couple of coffees and suddenly it was over before it had seemed to have begun. More emotional farewells and we were suddenly waving frantic last goodbyes to our chums. It had been a great couple of days and it was sad that it had been oh so short.
Within 10 minutes of departure, it started to rain and looked grim. Collette still wanted to do her washing and do it she would. Thankfully within an hour it cleared to another beautiful afternoon. We chored and did the springcleaning and got the boat back to just the two of us mode. Fleurie had arrived yesterday and Dave and I had been invited to look her over, I had suggested drinks tonight after dinner and we had arranged bubbly at 8.30 on fleurie.
I had a lot of beef left so I cut it into thin strips, fried off some courgettes and onions in butter added the beef and stir fried it with a green pepper sauce. Served on a bed of mushroom fried rice it was a made up bit of heaven. Showered and made it over to nick and Diane at about 8.45.
Lovely few hours, Cremant, a very nice Tuscan red and a coffee before getting back to Doucette at 12.30 for yet another late night.
Monday 27th August La Bussiere sur Ouche to Pont D'ouche
Trip 6kms Departure 9.30. Locks 5 of 415
It was an early start at the request of the eclusiers and we did not have time for breakfast. Dave steered us through the lovely scenery of the ouche valley on a stonker of a day. Collette rustled us a bowl of fresh fruit salad of peaches, apples, apricots and bananas with Greek yoghurt for an on the move breakfast.
Dave was getting to used to the easy life at the helm and had a go at opening the lock gates. The young female eclusier saw him struggling and rushed to help the poor old giggling Barfy.
We arrived at Pont D'ouche and chez Bryony. The little port here is run by a locally renowned character who hails from brum, takes no nonsense and runs the cafe, port shop with a rod of iron. We nestled in whilst the crew arranged electric and water, I went to meet Bryony and see what the score was.
Within 5 minutes, she was selling me the place. It was getting too much for her 7 days a week 10 hours for 7 months without a break and she was on her own ( no surprise there to be honest) and the was the accounts and stock collection and " no thanks Bryony, I just want to pay for a couple of nights"
Do you want bread?
Yes please 2 baguettes.
I got 2 pretty tired baguettes and paid my very reasonable dues.
Water system leaks so you make sure you turn the main taps off as well! She scolded as I made my escape.
Outside I was delayed by some hotel barge people out on a bike ride and taking a drink. Two new zealanders, an American and a Malaysian. They had been in Paris for a week, 5 days now on a luxury hotel barge and then off to Barcelona for a med cruise. How the other half live I pondered. Then I remembered!
They were nice and very chatty and by the time I returned to Doucette, I was in trouble for talking too much. Why was the water not working and the electric was a different connection and I needed to change to a French plug. 30minutes later all was sorted! Nice to be needed.
I had wanted to visit chateauneuf 8 Kms distant and So with time marching on, we decided to have lunch with Bryony. We took a table, Dave and I ordered some sort of fish balls and chips whilst Trish had a assiette of fromage and charcuterie and Collette had an assiette de charcuterie. Collette had also ordered chips.
They never came. Collette said to Bryony where's my chips.
You never ordered any!
Oh god I thought, this is a nightmare. Collette stood her ground and Bryony stormed off and returned with a portion of frites. 5 minutes later she came out to the garden and told us to bring our plates back in when we were finished. Unbelievable but we did it.
The weather was seriously hot and we left the girls to relax whilst returning to la Bussiere for the car. On our return we set off for chateauneuf. A magnificent village on a high hill commanding the whole valley. The view of the walled city on approach was breathtaking.
We climbed the 1in 3 hill and found our way through the tiny streets to the square where Dave parked. Chateauneuf is like a mini carcasonne without the tacky tourism. It has a few galleries and shops but is very much a living village so well preserved. We wandered the magnificent streets.
The castle was closed for tours as it was now 6 ish but we strolled the city and did find a now retired Chinese antiques trader who welcomed us to look round her store while she sat beside her cat reading in the setting sun. She told me she sold about 50000 € worth per year but now that she was retired her life was more important otherwise she would trade in Paris.
We admired the remarkable views over the valley
Before settling in the square at the hotel bar for a welcome leffe.
Dave drove us back to Doucette
where we settled down to some gin and tonics and wine and settled for a supper of merguez hotdogs in the slightly crusty baguettes and followed that with a cheese fest and a couple more bottles of merlot.
Glenfiddich 12 yr old for snifters and we went to bed slaughtered.
Lovely day!
It was an early start at the request of the eclusiers and we did not have time for breakfast. Dave steered us through the lovely scenery of the ouche valley on a stonker of a day. Collette rustled us a bowl of fresh fruit salad of peaches, apples, apricots and bananas with Greek yoghurt for an on the move breakfast.
Within 5 minutes, she was selling me the place. It was getting too much for her 7 days a week 10 hours for 7 months without a break and she was on her own ( no surprise there to be honest) and the was the accounts and stock collection and " no thanks Bryony, I just want to pay for a couple of nights"
Do you want bread?
Yes please 2 baguettes.
I got 2 pretty tired baguettes and paid my very reasonable dues.
Water system leaks so you make sure you turn the main taps off as well! She scolded as I made my escape.
Outside I was delayed by some hotel barge people out on a bike ride and taking a drink. Two new zealanders, an American and a Malaysian. They had been in Paris for a week, 5 days now on a luxury hotel barge and then off to Barcelona for a med cruise. How the other half live I pondered. Then I remembered!
They were nice and very chatty and by the time I returned to Doucette, I was in trouble for talking too much. Why was the water not working and the electric was a different connection and I needed to change to a French plug. 30minutes later all was sorted! Nice to be needed.
I had wanted to visit chateauneuf 8 Kms distant and So with time marching on, we decided to have lunch with Bryony. We took a table, Dave and I ordered some sort of fish balls and chips whilst Trish had a assiette of fromage and charcuterie and Collette had an assiette de charcuterie. Collette had also ordered chips.
They never came. Collette said to Bryony where's my chips.
You never ordered any!
Oh god I thought, this is a nightmare. Collette stood her ground and Bryony stormed off and returned with a portion of frites. 5 minutes later she came out to the garden and told us to bring our plates back in when we were finished. Unbelievable but we did it.
The weather was seriously hot and we left the girls to relax whilst returning to la Bussiere for the car. On our return we set off for chateauneuf. A magnificent village on a high hill commanding the whole valley. The view of the walled city on approach was breathtaking.
We admired the remarkable views over the valley
Dave drove us back to Doucette
Glenfiddich 12 yr old for snifters and we went to bed slaughtered.
Lovely day!
Sunday 26th August Gissey-sur-Ouche to La Bussiere-sur-Ouche
Trip 8kms Departure 10am Locks 8 of 410
A lovely breakfast of crumble yoghurt and egg cheese and ham crepes before we set off with Dave at the helm. He negotiated his first lock like an old master and the trip to La Bussiere was delightful except for a chill to the breeze and an overcast sky in the morning.
La Bussiere was a pretty little town and we moored just past the lock. Sadly we missed the boulangerie by minutes as it closed at 12.30. No more fresh bread for a couple of days then I pondered with it being Monday tomorrow.
The sun had burst through and it was now a lovely hot sunny day. We sat down to a fabulous cheese board including, eppoisse, langres, the bomb, roquefort, puy angloys, and pepper boursin and some sanglier and crab pate with the bread and sun dried tomatoes, cornichons and yellow chilis. Bloody super!
We strolled into the village, home to a Cistercian abbey and Eglise. The abbey was now an exclusive hotel and michelin starred restaurant. It looked mighty fine. We stopped and chatted with a couple from salisbury who had bought a gorgeous old property in the village and were busy still renovating after 7 yrs of ownership. They we very charming and we were invited in for a tour of the house and cup of tea. We gracefully declined although the girls were bursting for a nose really. Next stop was the cemetery. It had suffered serious storm damage and land slip and was being renovated. We discovered 7 commonwealth war graves. Dave suggested it must have been A lancaster bomber shot down killing all the crew on august 13 1943.
We toured the cistercian abbey and enjoyed the old town square
and views of the enormous dovecote in the hotel grounds. A huge mystery house like something from a scary movie was all but hidden by massive trees and our salisbury friends confirmed on our way back to the boat, that indeed it was a mystery house as nobody apparently knew the owners.
On our return It was time for Dave and I to take the folders and retrace our steps to get his car. Back at Gissey, we bumped into Francoise who had been walking his dog. Nice to see him again and we exchanged pleasantries.
Back at Doucette, it was time for dinner. Gin and tonics flowed and we sat down to starters of avocado and crab. The beef was cooked on the cob to a medium rare. Collette cooked the squash as per instruction and added the rest of the haricot, potatoes and the courgettes I sliced and cooked on the cob with the beef. Dave and I knocked up a sauce from the meat juices and some mustard and merlot and we had just the most stunning meal. The squash was a massive success and I recommend you try it if you can find it.
We had more cheese and biscuits for dessert.
We all went to bed at 1am very drunk and very satisfied with life.
A lovely breakfast of crumble yoghurt and egg cheese and ham crepes before we set off with Dave at the helm. He negotiated his first lock like an old master and the trip to La Bussiere was delightful except for a chill to the breeze and an overcast sky in the morning.
La Bussiere was a pretty little town and we moored just past the lock. Sadly we missed the boulangerie by minutes as it closed at 12.30. No more fresh bread for a couple of days then I pondered with it being Monday tomorrow.
The sun had burst through and it was now a lovely hot sunny day. We sat down to a fabulous cheese board including, eppoisse, langres, the bomb, roquefort, puy angloys, and pepper boursin and some sanglier and crab pate with the bread and sun dried tomatoes, cornichons and yellow chilis. Bloody super!
We strolled into the village, home to a Cistercian abbey and Eglise. The abbey was now an exclusive hotel and michelin starred restaurant. It looked mighty fine. We stopped and chatted with a couple from salisbury who had bought a gorgeous old property in the village and were busy still renovating after 7 yrs of ownership. They we very charming and we were invited in for a tour of the house and cup of tea. We gracefully declined although the girls were bursting for a nose really. Next stop was the cemetery. It had suffered serious storm damage and land slip and was being renovated. We discovered 7 commonwealth war graves. Dave suggested it must have been A lancaster bomber shot down killing all the crew on august 13 1943.
Back at Doucette, it was time for dinner. Gin and tonics flowed and we sat down to starters of avocado and crab. The beef was cooked on the cob to a medium rare. Collette cooked the squash as per instruction and added the rest of the haricot, potatoes and the courgettes I sliced and cooked on the cob with the beef. Dave and I knocked up a sauce from the meat juices and some mustard and merlot and we had just the most stunning meal. The squash was a massive success and I recommend you try it if you can find it.
We had more cheese and biscuits for dessert.
We all went to bed at 1am very drunk and very satisfied with life.
Saturday 25th August Carla's birthday, Ecluse 34 to Gissey-sur-Ouche
Trip 2kms Departure 10 Locks 2 of 402
I woke early and witnessed a stunning dawn.
Which just got better as i sat on the poop with the first cup of tea of the day. Last of the yorkshire t-bags so hope trish remembers to bring us some.
After breakfast and a happy birthday call to Carla, we set off the short hop to Gissey where we would greet Dave and Trish tonight. Once there we set about organising the boat for the guests but suddenly relished we needed vittals. I took the steel steed to investigate. Found a lovely old lady in this delightful village who explained that a man sold fresh vegetables from his garden and gave me directions, the bread van came between 7 and 7.30 tomorrow but would not be hooting as all bread was Pre ordered so it would mean just sitting and waiting for him. The grim news was that the nearest meat was back at villeurs, 15kms up the canal. I got back and briefed the crew. We went to check out the allotment and sure enough a sign with a phone number and opening hours of 5 pm to 7pm tonight was outside the wooden door of basically an acre of walled cultivated allotment. I called the number and spoke to Francoise a south African who had been a hotel barge captain until retirement 2 years ago when his wife had died. He had settled here and now produced vegetables for several local villages. He would see me at 7pm.
We set off on the trek to villeurs. An 18mile round trip for shopping was a record breaker for us but it was a lovely canal side ride. Got there in an hour. Luckily the supermarket was open. We had a right result with the meat. We chatted to the butcher and chose a fab joint of pork for tonight, but couldn't decide on tomorrows. He suggested a joint of beef. How much I enquired, 19€ he said, we looked at each other and were weighing it up when he suddenly put his finger to his mouth, checked on his boss behind him, tapped the till and suddenly the price changed to 11€. Marvellous. We added 8 monster merguez and with a massive thank you we scarpered.
Next door in the boulangerie, I again walked in and was confronted with an even more impressive loaf than the 5.50€ one. It was called a Ferdinand. This time I had the sense to ask how much.
This time it was both the crew and myself on the floor. 16€ !
I got another 5.50€ version.
We stopped off at the belle vue bar which was approximately half way back for sustenance. Beers and orangina. Round trip back to Doucette had taken 4 hours and our guests were due to arrive pretty soon so we hurriedly continued with preparations. At 5.30 though, I was delighted to spy Dave and Trish strolling over the canal bridge towards us. They had made good time. Emotional hugs and kisses and I talked like a machine gun with an endless cash of ammunition over drinks and nibbles.
It was soon time to stroll over to see Francoise. It was a lovely experience. He had bought my requested haricot but then gave us a choice of new potatoe variety to choose from. Once selected he took a fork and turned over the patch and we had the freshest potatoes you could wish for. Dave was given a knife to go and cut his choice of lettuce. We got 3 courgettes each a foot long, one was free as he had loads, then he asked us if we had heard of gem squash. No was a unanimous reply.
Came to south Africa from the uk, but rare now to find it in blighty apparently. He had bought them to France and amongst his customers they were a very popular option. Size of a grapefruit, he told us to cut them in half scrape out the pips and roast for 20mins with a bit of seasoning. We took 2.
Back at Doucette, the pork was doing nicely on the cob.
We enjoyed some salmon and crab mousse with lettuce and the bread for starters.
The pork was superb with the haricot vert.
Lots of bubbly Cremant rose for the girls and Dave was thrilled by the standard merlot. We talked for England and occasionally the crew and guests got an odd word in before a midnight retirement. Dave and Trish had done well considering the long journey they had endured.
it was good to have them aboard.
I woke early and witnessed a stunning dawn.
We set off on the trek to villeurs. An 18mile round trip for shopping was a record breaker for us but it was a lovely canal side ride. Got there in an hour. Luckily the supermarket was open. We had a right result with the meat. We chatted to the butcher and chose a fab joint of pork for tonight, but couldn't decide on tomorrows. He suggested a joint of beef. How much I enquired, 19€ he said, we looked at each other and were weighing it up when he suddenly put his finger to his mouth, checked on his boss behind him, tapped the till and suddenly the price changed to 11€. Marvellous. We added 8 monster merguez and with a massive thank you we scarpered.
Next door in the boulangerie, I again walked in and was confronted with an even more impressive loaf than the 5.50€ one. It was called a Ferdinand. This time I had the sense to ask how much.
This time it was both the crew and myself on the floor. 16€ !
I got another 5.50€ version.
We stopped off at the belle vue bar which was approximately half way back for sustenance. Beers and orangina. Round trip back to Doucette had taken 4 hours and our guests were due to arrive pretty soon so we hurriedly continued with preparations. At 5.30 though, I was delighted to spy Dave and Trish strolling over the canal bridge towards us. They had made good time. Emotional hugs and kisses and I talked like a machine gun with an endless cash of ammunition over drinks and nibbles.
It was soon time to stroll over to see Francoise. It was a lovely experience. He had bought my requested haricot but then gave us a choice of new potatoe variety to choose from. Once selected he took a fork and turned over the patch and we had the freshest potatoes you could wish for. Dave was given a knife to go and cut his choice of lettuce. We got 3 courgettes each a foot long, one was free as he had loads, then he asked us if we had heard of gem squash. No was a unanimous reply.
Came to south Africa from the uk, but rare now to find it in blighty apparently. He had bought them to France and amongst his customers they were a very popular option. Size of a grapefruit, he told us to cut them in half scrape out the pips and roast for 20mins with a bit of seasoning. We took 2.
Back at Doucette, the pork was doing nicely on the cob.
We enjoyed some salmon and crab mousse with lettuce and the bread for starters.
The pork was superb with the haricot vert.
Lots of bubbly Cremant rose for the girls and Dave was thrilled by the standard merlot. We talked for England and occasionally the crew and guests got an odd word in before a midnight retirement. Dave and Trish had done well considering the long journey they had endured.
it was good to have them aboard.
Wednesday, 29 August 2012
Friday 24th August Pont du Pany to Ecluse 34
Trip. 4kms Departure 9.30 Locks 4 of 400
More of the magnificent bread for breakfast toasted with marmite and marmalade and lashings of melted butter. Oh yes!
More delicious scenery and quaint locks
The tall red and white flowers at St Marie sur Ouche made it a particular favourite
We arrived at ecluse 34 and our first sight of this highly recommended stop. We had been told how a Swiss lady had renovated it, set up a terrific little restaurant and shop and also operateted a gite at the Back of the cottage. It looked very nice and we were considering lunch here.
Once settled in the lock, the eclusier asked me if I needed water. I had noted it available at the previous lock and although not needing much, I always take advantage of topping up so had been annoyed that I had only spotted it as we were leaving. The eclusier shouted that it was the last water before Pont douche. Ok I said in that case I will top up. As I thought it took hardly any water but always best to be full.
The lock had a quay with bollards and I also noticed electricity. This persuaded me that we would stay overnight rather than just for lunch, as with Dave and Trish arriving tomorrow we could do with a full charge up on everything. Before mooring I arranged with the lovely Monique, hostess of the restaurant a lunch date for 1pm.
We nestled alongside and prepared for lunch. I did not plug straight into the electric for some reason as had some bits to sort out. At 12.45 it turned black and started to rain. We watched as Monique quickly cleared the beautifully arranged outside table complete with candelabra and moved the setting inside. A quick dash and we were greeted by her beaming smile and ushered into the restored keepers cottage lounge. We were the only guests for lunch so would have very personal service. The table was immaculate and with a view over the lock alongside the table, we were both thrilled about the rain and the transfer inside. An old fireplace was original and the new owners clearly had an eye for decor. It was sympathetic yet modern and gloriously comfy.
We were also unable to avoid noticing the arrangement of home made delights covering the kitchen table. The picture was taken after the meal.
Monique entered and issued a proposal of menu. The setting demanded we go with the flow on this one and I knew already I was in for taking a bit of a hit but it had a good feel. I asked for a rhum and coconut cocktail for the crew at the recommendation of the giggling Monique, whilst a pichet of house white was the skippers order. Our waitress came back with two home baked savoury cakes. Burgundian specialities, one was ham and olives the other plain ham. She quickly returned with a nice looking bottle and suggested it as the perfect accompaniament to the fois gras entree. I was asked to open the bottle, at this stage a little alarmed as where was my white wine pichet. I uncorked the dessert wine, she filled a large glass for me and We had slices and squares of both savoury cakes. Delicious but the dessert wine would not be my favourite.
The fois GRAS followed, for such a rich dish we had far to much and fresh hot home baked baguettes, with unusually, hot butter to spread made it a wow but phew starter. In fairness the wine was much nicer with the fois GRAS.
I was relieved when having cleared our dishes, Monique removed the wine bottle with just the one glass having been poured. My pichet arrived. I was much happier.
Classic coq au vin was a classic main with seasonal vegetables.
Sweet was ridiculous. A slice of moniques very special triple chocolate tarte, a Burgundian speciality of gingerbread with fresh raspberries, a sort of brownie and another gingerbread this time with nuts.
The best was left til last when she produced the ripest cheese I had seen for some time. It was desperately trying to run away. I managed to get through half a round.
Coffee and Collette managed another cocktail. I finished the wine.
Throughout Monique had hatted away and we had been there two and a half hours. The crew disappeared off to the ladies. It happened to be an old outside loo. This one had been lovingly decorated but the entrance door had a wooden nailed doorstop to open it which dropped into an open wooden latch. Once inside, the crew found herself horrified as when she banged the door shut the wooden stop dropped down and into the latch. She was locked in! It turns out after shouting for help and no one responding, our hero mounted the pan and armed with the toilet brush managed to hang her arm over the top of the wooden door and by swinging her arm and banging the wooden lever she was able to eventually dislodge the latch and made good her escape. Her retelling was utterly hysterical to both Monique myself and the heroine.
What made it especially priceless was the fact that the outside loo was for guests just stopping for a drink and the there was a toilet in the cottage for diners. Why hadn't she asked? Laughed Monique. Brilliant!
The bill arrived and I would be fibbing if I did not reveal my utter disappointment. The bill for the meal was no problem, 64€. It was the item added. 3 € electric, no worries but a staggering 5€ for water had been added. Churlish to complain at the overall bill after the meal and service and the fact that the mooring was free but it left a nasty taste. The eclusier had set me up. Water had been freely available at two other locks he had taken us through and yet he persuaded me to take water here. I had not been told about any charge for it and having seen him taking coffee with Monique after we had exited, I realised it had been something of a con. 5€ for water is unheard of. I was in such good heart and had enjoyed the afternoon so much that I decided not to argue the toss over it but it was a great shame and I was disappointed about it.
It rained some more later in the afternoon and when I tried the electric, it just kept blowing the fuse, guess I had water somewhere so I claimed my 3€ back and went without. After the rain, a beautiful rainbow got us off the boat and strolling the riverbanks.
We headed back to Doucette for a supper less evening, no more food necessary, realising just how lucky we were being here!
More of the magnificent bread for breakfast toasted with marmite and marmalade and lashings of melted butter. Oh yes!
More delicious scenery and quaint locks
We arrived at ecluse 34 and our first sight of this highly recommended stop. We had been told how a Swiss lady had renovated it, set up a terrific little restaurant and shop and also operateted a gite at the Back of the cottage. It looked very nice and we were considering lunch here.
Once settled in the lock, the eclusier asked me if I needed water. I had noted it available at the previous lock and although not needing much, I always take advantage of topping up so had been annoyed that I had only spotted it as we were leaving. The eclusier shouted that it was the last water before Pont douche. Ok I said in that case I will top up. As I thought it took hardly any water but always best to be full.
The lock had a quay with bollards and I also noticed electricity. This persuaded me that we would stay overnight rather than just for lunch, as with Dave and Trish arriving tomorrow we could do with a full charge up on everything. Before mooring I arranged with the lovely Monique, hostess of the restaurant a lunch date for 1pm.
We nestled alongside and prepared for lunch. I did not plug straight into the electric for some reason as had some bits to sort out. At 12.45 it turned black and started to rain. We watched as Monique quickly cleared the beautifully arranged outside table complete with candelabra and moved the setting inside. A quick dash and we were greeted by her beaming smile and ushered into the restored keepers cottage lounge. We were the only guests for lunch so would have very personal service. The table was immaculate and with a view over the lock alongside the table, we were both thrilled about the rain and the transfer inside. An old fireplace was original and the new owners clearly had an eye for decor. It was sympathetic yet modern and gloriously comfy.
We were also unable to avoid noticing the arrangement of home made delights covering the kitchen table. The picture was taken after the meal.
The fois GRAS followed, for such a rich dish we had far to much and fresh hot home baked baguettes, with unusually, hot butter to spread made it a wow but phew starter. In fairness the wine was much nicer with the fois GRAS.
I was relieved when having cleared our dishes, Monique removed the wine bottle with just the one glass having been poured. My pichet arrived. I was much happier.
Classic coq au vin was a classic main with seasonal vegetables.
Sweet was ridiculous. A slice of moniques very special triple chocolate tarte, a Burgundian speciality of gingerbread with fresh raspberries, a sort of brownie and another gingerbread this time with nuts.
The best was left til last when she produced the ripest cheese I had seen for some time. It was desperately trying to run away. I managed to get through half a round.
Coffee and Collette managed another cocktail. I finished the wine.
Throughout Monique had hatted away and we had been there two and a half hours. The crew disappeared off to the ladies. It happened to be an old outside loo. This one had been lovingly decorated but the entrance door had a wooden nailed doorstop to open it which dropped into an open wooden latch. Once inside, the crew found herself horrified as when she banged the door shut the wooden stop dropped down and into the latch. She was locked in! It turns out after shouting for help and no one responding, our hero mounted the pan and armed with the toilet brush managed to hang her arm over the top of the wooden door and by swinging her arm and banging the wooden lever she was able to eventually dislodge the latch and made good her escape. Her retelling was utterly hysterical to both Monique myself and the heroine.
The bill arrived and I would be fibbing if I did not reveal my utter disappointment. The bill for the meal was no problem, 64€. It was the item added. 3 € electric, no worries but a staggering 5€ for water had been added. Churlish to complain at the overall bill after the meal and service and the fact that the mooring was free but it left a nasty taste. The eclusier had set me up. Water had been freely available at two other locks he had taken us through and yet he persuaded me to take water here. I had not been told about any charge for it and having seen him taking coffee with Monique after we had exited, I realised it had been something of a con. 5€ for water is unheard of. I was in such good heart and had enjoyed the afternoon so much that I decided not to argue the toss over it but it was a great shame and I was disappointed about it.
It rained some more later in the afternoon and when I tried the electric, it just kept blowing the fuse, guess I had water somewhere so I claimed my 3€ back and went without. After the rain, a beautiful rainbow got us off the boat and strolling the riverbanks.
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