Wednesday, 29 August 2012

Friday 24th August Pont du Pany to Ecluse 34

Trip. 4kms Departure 9.30 Locks 4 of 400

More of the magnificent bread for breakfast toasted with marmite and marmalade and lashings of melted butter. Oh yes!

More delicious scenery and quaint locks

The tall red and white flowers at St Marie sur Ouche made it a particular favourite

 

We arrived at ecluse 34 and our first sight of this highly recommended stop. We had been told how a Swiss lady had renovated it, set up a terrific little restaurant and shop and also operateted a gite at the Back of the cottage. It looked very nice and we were considering lunch here.

Once settled in the lock, the eclusier asked me if I needed water. I had noted it available at the previous lock and although not needing much, I always take advantage of topping up so had been annoyed that I had only spotted it as we were leaving. The eclusier shouted that it was the last water before Pont douche. Ok I said in that case I will top up. As I thought it took hardly any water but always best to be full.

The lock had a quay with bollards and I also noticed electricity. This persuaded me that we would stay overnight rather than just for lunch, as with Dave and Trish arriving tomorrow we could do with a full charge up on everything. Before mooring I arranged with the lovely Monique, hostess of the restaurant a lunch date for 1pm.

We nestled alongside and prepared for lunch. I did not plug straight into the electric for some reason as had some bits to sort out. At 12.45 it turned black and started to rain. We watched as Monique quickly cleared the beautifully arranged outside table complete with candelabra and moved the setting inside. A quick dash and we were greeted by her beaming smile and ushered into the restored keepers cottage lounge. We were the only guests for lunch so would have very personal service. The table was immaculate and with a view over the lock alongside the table, we were both thrilled about the rain and the transfer inside. An old fireplace was original and the new owners clearly had an eye for decor. It was sympathetic yet modern and gloriously comfy.

We were also unable to avoid noticing the arrangement of home made delights covering the kitchen table. The picture was taken after the meal.

Monique entered and issued a proposal of menu. The setting demanded we go with the flow on this one and I knew already I was in for taking a bit of a hit but it had a good feel. I asked for a rhum and coconut cocktail for the crew at the recommendation of the giggling Monique, whilst a pichet of house white was the skippers order. Our waitress came back with two home baked savoury cakes. Burgundian specialities, one was ham and olives the other plain ham. She quickly returned with a nice looking bottle and suggested it as the perfect accompaniament to the fois gras entree. I was asked to open the bottle, at this stage a little alarmed as where was my white wine pichet. I uncorked the dessert wine, she filled a large glass for me and We had slices and squares of both savoury cakes. Delicious but the dessert wine would not be my favourite.

The fois GRAS followed, for such a rich dish we had far to much and fresh hot home baked baguettes, with unusually, hot butter to spread made it a wow but phew starter. In fairness the wine was much nicer with the fois GRAS.

I was relieved when having cleared our dishes, Monique removed the wine bottle with just the one glass having been poured. My pichet arrived. I was much happier.

Classic coq au vin was a classic main with seasonal vegetables.

Sweet was ridiculous. A slice of moniques very special triple chocolate tarte, a Burgundian speciality of gingerbread with fresh raspberries, a sort of brownie and another gingerbread this time with nuts.

The best was left til last when she produced the ripest cheese I had seen for some time. It was desperately trying to run away. I managed to get through half a round.

Coffee and Collette managed another cocktail. I finished the wine.

Throughout Monique had hatted away and we had been there two and a half hours. The crew disappeared off to the ladies. It happened to be an old outside loo. This one had been lovingly decorated but the entrance door had a wooden nailed doorstop to open it which dropped into an open wooden latch. Once inside, the crew found herself horrified as when she banged the door shut the wooden stop dropped down and into the latch. She was locked in! It turns out after shouting for help and no one responding, our hero mounted the pan and armed with the toilet brush managed to hang her arm over the top of the wooden door and by swinging her arm and banging the wooden lever she was able to eventually dislodge the latch and made good her escape. Her retelling was utterly hysterical to both Monique myself and the heroine.

What made it especially priceless was the fact that the outside loo was for guests just stopping for a drink and the there was a toilet in the cottage for diners. Why hadn't she asked? Laughed Monique. Brilliant!

The bill arrived and I would be fibbing if I did not reveal my utter disappointment. The bill for the meal was no problem, 64€. It was the item added. 3 € electric, no worries but a staggering 5€ for water had been added. Churlish to complain at the overall bill after the meal and service and the fact that the mooring was free but it left a nasty taste. The eclusier had set me up. Water had been freely available at two other locks he had taken us through and yet he persuaded me to take water here. I had not been told about any charge for it and having seen him taking coffee with Monique after we had exited, I realised it had been something of a con. 5€ for water is unheard of. I was in such good heart and had enjoyed the afternoon so much that I decided not to argue the toss over it but it was a great shame and I was disappointed about it.

It rained some more later in the afternoon and when I tried the electric, it just kept blowing the fuse, guess I had water somewhere so I claimed my 3€ back and went without. After the rain, a beautiful rainbow got us off the boat and strolling the riverbanks.

We headed back to Doucette for a supper less evening, no more food necessary, realising just how lucky we were being here!

 

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