Sunday 12th August Mantoche to Auxonne

Trip 43 Kms Departure 8.30am Locks 3 of 356

We left the guests in bed this morning and wanting to maximise time in auxonne, planned on slipped lines at 8.30. I strolled down to the local shop which acted as a pain depot. I asked for two baguettes. He hesitated just long enough and then rang up 2.30€. I looked at him and thought shall I question it. Baguettes are normally 0.85€. I was certain he had ripped me as a tourist. Never happened in a boulangerie. In hindsight I regretted not questioning it but I did not based on the fact that it was peanuts and I wanted these village places to survive. It still seemed a shame and I returned to the boat disappointed. I know, a small thing but there we go. I settled for a questioning look and a very curt aurevoir with no Bon journee's for you my boy! He knew I knew, it was obvious from his face and that was enough for me. Strolled back to the boat taking a couple of shots of this idyllic setting.

Back at the boat I slipped lines on schedule and could not help myself from snapping the mooring as we departed. Another location I just have to return to and spend more time.

The soane was showing its teeth now and widening with every km. it was a proper river now. The guys stirred after about an hour and we soon realised why they were so tired. Both of them had been victims of a mossie assault. We reckoned it must have been a combination of the tv screen last night and the open forward hatch attracting them all in and then being in the cabin and bed when the guys slept. The poor devils were covered. We felt terrible and creamed them with all our bite medicines and got them to take some anti histamine tabs.

Such a shame! Of course they were both warriors and hated the fuss we were making. Fair enough!

We got to auxonne and settled on the public pontoons. Not the prettiest setting in front of a block of flats but perfect for the town centre and all facilities.

I had wanted to have a nice lunch and had been recommended the st. Jaques restaurant just 100m from our berth. They have a tabled area overlooking the river and the waitress was just exiting as we perused an interesting menu do jour. Je suis desolet, mais ferme. What, but its only 1.30? They had run out of food! Closed tonight and tomorrow. Only me, I exclaimed!

We walked into this old fortress town, famous for being the 2 year posting of a promising young leftenant Napoleon Bonaparte. Still a garrison town, but it retains a lovely feel about it. We of course magnetised toward the church in the centre and found ourselves outside a very pleasant flower adorned creperie restaurant. This would most certainly do.

Aparatif order first. Dan spots cider on the menu and whilst I have beer, the guys get a bottle of pear and a bottle of rose cider. I also order a pichet of Pinot.

The cider is well received with much stroking of chins and mmmmm's very nice. Collette suddenly starts laughing. It's 2per cent alcohol. Now nothing wrong with that I know but with a stroke of my chinny chin chin, I suggest to D that the beer was mmmmmmm very nice.

Lunch was very pleasant, I had a mixed seafood plate, 3 thick slices of smoked salmon, slab of prawns, a hot st Jacques which was gorgeous, some chunks of cod And of course salad and crusty bread. The other guys went for various mixed plate meals, all very substantial and not finished but somehow they found room for glacé and they looked very pleased with themselves.

 

After our long lazy lunch, we walked back to the the old castle come chateau, also adjacent to the moorings. A son et lumiere was heavily advertised and tonight was last night. We checked out the venue and decided to end the guys trip with some local culture. there was a buvette set up, crepes hot dogs and beers at 2€, a small stand to hold probably 200 people. We were told to pay on the door. It starts at 10.30

Back at the boat, we chilled and sunbathed. I tempted les jeunes with a bike ride. They were very excited and rushed off in raptures. Carla did not even worry about her helmet although dan probably did seeing his 6 ft 4 frame on my little steed.

They returned safely

unnecessarily Collette made tarte flambes for tea, cooked them on the cob and they were magnificent before slipping off to the show. We received a lovely warm welcome as this particularly local event. We were given to bola tickets which we filled in and posted in the box for the draw for a typical Burgoyne hamper. The programme listed the 28 scenes which would recount the history of Auxonne from Pre historic days to the present. The scenes were pretty specific, we smiled at "Napoleon Bonaparte writes a letter" this was gonna be some spectacle.

The packed stand fell silent as we were suddenly shrouded in darkness. The music started and the stand shook as the startled audience as one chorus whispered to their left or right, " Jesus Christ that's loud" mostly in French of course.

The show was actually a delightful experience which we all thoroughly enjoyed. A proper bit of French cultural life. It was a shame that the thick set cart horse decided to drop manure across the whole of the stage area in the second scene and it did add to the entertainment of the evening watching the cast desperately trying to avoid the substantial deposits for the next hour and a half.

The jousting scene did something of a clearing up job as the horses were racing straight through it in a perfect muck spreading excercise. We were particularly concerned for the first 3 rows.

 

The letter scene was as it say on the tin. A small office construction. Bonaparte sitting at a desk. He writes a letter. Gives it to a horseman to deliver, end of scene. Marvellous!

The show contained some fantastic horsemanship with some very special trick riding. Not sure if this was caused by the horses slipping on the manure strewn stage or part of the show, but it was very impressive!

The music calmed and actually the 90 minute show was over in a flash. The cast rightly recieving rapturous applause as they took their bows with the naughty younger element throwing tiny shells into the audience, all very cute.

It was Last night Of course so we were then treated to a very French spectacle. A super firework display followed by the thank you parade and speeches. This lasted a further 30 minutes. The buvette was now open but with the guys needing an early train, we slipped away even though the raffle had yet to be drawn. I was sure we were destined to be lucky.

Back at Doucette it was snifters. Dan had given me my birthday present early in the trip. A fabulous 12yr old malt. We had made in roads and it seemed the perfect way to finish the day. With more bite cream applied we retired.

 

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