Sunday, 19 August 2012

Wednesday 15th August Auxonne to St Jean De Losne

Trip 19kms Departure 9.45 Locks 1 of 357

We made an early start and set off to the boulangerie at 8. I had decided as we were passing the intermarche, I might as well pick up a couple of cans of diesel. 1.41€ per litre so not bad but prices have risen recently and no more sightings of the bargain 1.35€ of 3 weeks ago.

Collette fetched her washing in and we slipped our berth at 9.45. Through the short cut and only lock of the day and straight back onto the now quite majestic soane. Now it was a proper river. The wind was up to a 3 and on our bow and the crew commented that it was almost like being back at sea. Not quite though!

The trip was a speedy one at 8 knots (15kms per hour). We soon passed the entrance to the canal du rhone au rhin at st. Symphorien. We would have been wintering here had it not been for the horror stories of 9 inch ice spooking this skipper. I had still to confirm alternative wintering arrangements and intended to have a look around st jean at a couple of yards. Just 5 Kms further on, we soon spotted the church spire signalling our arrival at this town which is the hub of the French waterways. Every med bound boat passaging the waterways will pass through st jean.

We were lucky enough to find room on the town quay. You could smell the history of this quay and I was delighted to become part of it. I had been told that the town is particularly popular with the Brits and so it proved. The quay is a set of stone steps built for older times with heavy rings spaced for peniches and so the mooring lines of all the boats were draped across them. The electric and water points we're unfortunately evidence of changing times and only one junction worked on each box and the water was non existent. Apparently all worked last year but have been left to decline. Sad!

We were moored next to a beaut of an Australian flagged motor yacht. My favourite of some pretty spectacular boats on this trip. When I commented accordingly, the owner kindly offered me the chance of doing some varnish work for him. Made me think of wally, smeds, bri and Fred and all the varnishing debates that occur annually at GCC. The boat proved as always, the olduns are the best.

The quay restaurants were very busy with lunches and we did a bit of people watching over a beer from our ringside seats before heading off for a stroll to investigate the town. Turns out it is another national holiday in France explaining the vibrancy of the town for a Wednesday. A street market dominated the centre but delayed us little with its usual array of tacky cheap clothes, honey roasted hot nuts and slush puppy machines alongside bob Marley t shirts and 3€ looky looky Rolex watches.

We headed the 150 m to the entrance to the canal du borgouyne. I was absolutely horrified to find a very newly shed 4 ft long silvery snake skin lying next to the grassy path. Vipers again! We left the path and made straight for the road. A bridge takes you over the entrance into both Blanqaurt and H2O marinas lying in a basin to the right of the adjacent canal.

100 m away another bridge crosses the canal and Just inside the canal lock, you find a heavenly haven for any boating enthusiast.

The huge yards of the historically famous Blanqaurt and the more modern h2o are home to a huge array of waterways craft both old and new. Hulking rusting peniches being lovingly restored for a very different future, plaisanciers grafting in the hot sun applying Tender loving care to their beloved craft. At h2o we strolled down a pontoon with 60 boats foe sale, several displaying Sold signs proving that the economic depression has not affected everybody and people will always find money for boats. Ranging in price from 450,000€ to 18000€ peniches, narrowboats, motor sailors, yachts, cats, steel boats grp cruisers, I loved it!

As we strolled back, I spied across the canal a familiar looking barge out of the water. Collette, is that Mike and Denise's barge from Rethel? What is that doing here and why is it out of the water? Just then we spotted Mike aboard. We waved and strolled round to see them.

They had reluctantly put there barge on the market the day we had drinks with them in Rethel back May. It turns out they sold it within a week. They had agreed to get her hull re anti fouled for the new owner and had arrived here as the sale was being completed here back end of August. When she was lifted, they were horrified to discover a very rusty hull. The magnesium anodes were still in pristine condition. Unfortunately, they were the original anodes fitted at build some 9 years ago. Nightmare!

They were waiting for the hull to be sandblasted, repaired and repainted at a nasty cost of nearly 10 grand. No wonder they were a little hacked off! So anodes are pretty damned important.

It made me shudder to think of all my worries over anodes prior to my trip and I was now very happy that Doucette would be lifted out for the winter and I could get the magnesium anodes I brought with me fitted. I will also be interested to see how the aluminium ones have faired.

Back at Doucette, we had ham and cheese salad baguettes with some Chardonnay. Not my favourite wine but it needed to be drunk and was actually quite nice. Had a long afternoon snooze and woke up To a noisy backdrop of early evening drinkers on the restaurant veranda just up the steps from us. The bank holiday had put people in a drinking mood. I joined them in a leffe and suddenly the sky darkened.

Within 20minutes we had thunder and lightening and some serious rain. It had been inevitable with the 90 degree temperatures and the humidity of the last week and was a welcome clearing of the air so no complaints. It lasted no Time but the sky remained cloudy and heavy but the temperatures were a refreshing lovely comfortable bonus.

The stormy rain returned and we spent the rest of the evening on domestic paperwork, and discussions on over wintering and planning our trip home at the end of September. We treated ourselves to a long awaited kebab royal and frites. Been years since I had a kebab but they look a lot more healthier over here. Suffice to say, We thought they were bloody lovely.

Had my last glass of wine at 11.15 and we were in bed by midnight. Where do the hours go, I pondered?

 

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